Herbie

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Wrong I'm afraid. Mine would start on LPG from cold although it wasn't really recommended. The actual changeover temperature was set at about 35oC, which is a long way from normal operating temperature of about 90oC. Usually it changed within about half a mile. It's true that older systems should be run up to normal temp first but modern gas systems look after themselves very well on their own.

Well, you did ask so..... horribly tacky and naff - but if you like them, fair enough.

A bit of trivia - some people may think that the 'E' marked on the bolt head stands for 'Earth' but it doesn't. It's the manufacturer's mark:

As far as I know that's the whole reason - to produce a good spark over the entirety of its longer life. When changing plugs is a 4 or 5 hour job you don't want to be doing it very often so they're designed for longevity, not necessarily to be better with any given fuel.

Does this happen wherever the car is parked or only in one place - just thinking radio interference?

Almost certainly the 12V battery gone or going flat. You say you bought a new battery recently but exactly how long ago and how much have you used the car since fitting it? The 12V batteries used in the hybrids aren't very big and don't have a huge capacity because they don't have to turn a starter motor to crank the engine. All they do is to provide power for the entry/exit system and power for the computers to boot up and get the car into the READY state. A 'traditional' starter motor will draw upwards of 300A to crank the engine but as you can see in the photo below, my 2013 RX450h only draws 15.32A to get it to READY. Even if you don't drive the car there will be a drain on the battery for things like the alarm and immobiliser circuits; keeping the radio presets in memory etc., etc., and if the car isn't used for any length of time, say, stood in an airport car park for a week or two waiting for you to return from your holidays, the battery will have drained to the point where it won't start the car. I'm fairly sure that a set of jump leads or an overnight charge of the battery will see your car up and running again. If you're not using the car on a regular basis I would seriously consider buying one of these jump start battery packs or something similar.

As long as they're reasonably priced I'd do both as there's bound to be differences in 'springiness' of an almost 20-yr old one and a brand new one.

+1 for what Scott says - I was reading that very same article and was going to quote it but he beat me to it.

Me too - although I've just ordered a set with the 'Lexus' in red like the OP's

Glad you got it all sorted Michael

Not sure I'd agree with that. NGK are world leaders in their field and Iridium plugs perform brilliantly on LPG or petrol so irrespective of whichever fuel I'm using, I'd always go for NGK Iridiums anyway.

Haha, me too 😁 I served my apprenticeship at Courtaulds factory which was excellent because they had their own power station with five turbine/genny sets (two and a backup for normal 50Hz and one and a backup working at 120Hz for the box spinning machines) and 12 substations onsite. It was a brilliant apprenticeship because I could be fitting a light in an office one day and the next day I could be working on a substation feeder cable or in the power house undercutting the comm on a genny, but I digress. The year before I started there was a big fire broke out in ducting on the roof and they were still recovering from that, installing new fire alarm systems and suchlike. Before that job was finished I'd made off 476 pyro ends!

Whoa there partner, no offence meant 🙂 I, too, try to be accurate and draw on my own first-hand experiences that life has given me as well as looking for verification from other sources and it's a very good practice to do so. In 1974 I started an apprenticeship and became a time-served, fully qualified electrician. A few years later I became interested in amateur radio so I took the City & Guilds course and became a licenced radio ham (callsign G7IFM). Although an electrician by trade the vast majority of my working life has been as a telephone engineer on BT, later having responsibility for Special Faults Investigations. Sadly, a back injury at work made it impossible to carry on doing physical work so I'm now self-employed doing computer repairs. Now, I can see that as an extra, though somewhat unnecessary step, but a 'belt and braces' approach isn't necessarily a bad thing. I say "unnecessary" because the battery itself acts as a huge smoothing capacitor and would eliminate any spikes that may originate from the removal of the jumper leads. When taking part in amateur radio competitions we would be in a tent in a field somewhere with a generator providing our electricity supply. The equipment worked on 12V but some of the genny sets gave a 'dirty' output so a car battery was connected in between the output of the power supply and the equipment purely for that reason - to smooth out any spikes or noise and present a clean supply to the gear.

Probably because it's completely inaccurate Paul. The battery is only used to crank the engine. Once the engine is running and the alternator is spinning, the alternator itself powers all electrical systems and if there's enough 'spare' capacity it also charges the battery. Putting that extra load on will do the exact opposite of what you want to do, ie, charge the battery.

Put a cardboard box/traffic cone/empty bucket (or something else that won't damage the car) on the driveway, and reverse up to it to the point where the red line on the display appears to be touching said object then get out and measure how far the car still has to travel before actually touching it. Alternatively, if you find it difficult to judge inches, get someone to tell you the moment you actually make contact and look at the screen to see how far beyond the red line you've gone. Either way, you'll soon get used to judging the point where you need to stop.

That's only silly Lexus dealership price. You can get a whole exhaust system custom made in stainless steel, including cats, for less than that.

Never heard of anyone doing this before Paul, what's the reasoning behind it?

It may be a switch to toggle on/off the parking sensors. I seem to remember previous posts on here saying that they were a dealer option, not a factory fit.

Good advice there from David. Something else to bear in mind is to ask if the car is prepared and can be driven away that day so that you drive to the dealers in your old one, do the deal, then drive home in your new one, which is what we did.

You have to be prepared to travel for the good ones. We bought our RX300 from a place 210 miles away and our current RX450h came from Lexus Teeside, a journey of about 106 miles (but because of the route, over two hours) away.

Doh!! Having read that he had a Bentley in the past, I took RR to be Rolls Royce

That's weird - should be a Land Rover:

Les is correct, as you'll see below ((they got the mileages wrong which is why I crossed them out):

+1 for NGK or Denso Iridium (15 years experience of LPG).