Herbie

They still do, it never went away. There has to be a certain percentage of the population using DAB, can't remember if it's 50 or 75%) and then once they hit that target, FM gets switched off.

Check the standing battery voltage against the chart below. Check the tightness and cleanliness of both battery connections, the 'other ends' of those connections and also the engine to body earth strap (sometimes also a gearbox earth strap too). Hopefully you'll find one of them to be loose.

That's what the temperature gauge is for. As soon as it begins to rise from its normal position, that's your cue to panic. Antifreeze also has rust inhibitors in so yes, you need to top up with some proportion of antifreeze and not just water. I'm not sure if you can just chuck any sort in or if you have to match what's already in there though.

Absolute rubbish! All dashcams work on 5V so you need either a cigarette lighter USB adapter or for a better and permanent job you need a hardwire kit that wires into the fusebox - either way, it takes the car's 12V supply and brings it down to 5V for the camera. This is nothing whatsoever to do with the hybrid side of things so please rest assured that the Nextbase 422 will happily work in your CT200h. Above all, please promise that you will NEVER go back to those fitters and NEVER use them again for anything!

I think these are the ones that I got but I notice that the RC isn't listed for compatibility so they may not be suitable for you.

Great news, glad you've got it sorted.

I must admit that I didn't know that, but having read that post #13 you refer to, I'm still not convinced that it does any appreciable harm to select Neutral - the slipping must be so slight as to be negligible. I would also question the validity of that last point from your CLS handbook. If the car is in P and you get hit from behind then you stand to have a lot of damage to the gearbox as the parking pawl isn't designed to take such force.

You could do that and ask to read the details on the canister, see if that provides any insight. The only other thing I can suggest (but it probably won't be cheap) is to go to a proper aircon specialist and see if they can test which lubricant is in there and if it's the wrong one, get them to flush it and replace with the right one. Oh, and check for leaks too.

This really does worry me. The original point you made was that you didn't think it could be lack of gas because it was only regassed last year. Unfortunately, leaks can occur at any time so the fact that it was only done last year doesn't really mean a lot. However, there's a proper procedure for determining if there's a leak or not and that involves hooking up a machine that evacuates whatever gas is already in there and pulling a vacuum for 'x' amount of time to see if it remains steady. If the vacuum doesn't hold steady it suggests a leak, so a UV dye would be injected into the system to help find where the leak is. Once the leak is repaired (or if no leak exists) then the system has to be recharged with the correct amount of gas and the correct amount of the appropriate lubricant - in your case, ND11 oil and definitely not PAG oil. If I'm reading you correctly, the fact that all they've done is hook up a gas canister to top up what's already there, without doing any of the other stuff (earlier on you said that they don't use a proper aircon machine like the one in the photo I posted), isn't good.

You just beat me to it

I've been driving autos for over 30 years and never heard of that, nor has any owners manual that I've had mentioned it either. I'm not convinced.

So you did put the car in Neutral? Or not? Nothing - but you didn't say that to begin with. You said, "In automatic cars Neutral should be only used very rarely and in specific situations like the car behing pulled." which made it sound like something would be damaged if the car was put into Neutral. I was just pointing out that that's wrong - no damage will be caused at all and it's perfectly acceptable to put the car into Neutral when waiting at lights.

Looks like they missed out a full stop. It should read "Traction battery low. Charges when not in Neutral"

With the greatest of respect, that's not right. Nothing wrong whatsoever with putting the handbrake on and the car in Neutral when waiting at traffic lights or whatever - but only in a 'standard' auto though, not a hybrid.

I live 'up north' so can't suggest anywhere but that place looks as good as any. Before you spend any money just check the fuses and connectors - with the switch showing no signs of life it may well be something as simple as that.

Oooh, not good - too much chance of damage. Stick to the windscreen, bottom right-hand corner is fine.

Brush soapy water onto all air pipe and joints to see if any bubbles form anywhere.

Hi and welcome to the club. You'll get better responses if you post the question in the dedicated GS forum, I think.

Only a guess but it sounds like the relays are stuck. I'd pull them out to see what happens and test them on the bench. Depending on the results of that, you may need to test the wiring to and from the relays.

Oh well, it was worth a try. Hope you manage to sort it.

Not watched it, but googling the search string "Lexus LS500 S-Flow" (without the quotes) comes up with this very close to the top of the results:

Yes, the lights are notoriously inaccurate and should never be relied upon. The only way to be sure is to fill up with gas, set the trip recorder to zero, then run on gas until it gives the first warning that you're getting low. That way you know that a tankful should give you 'x' miles so you know to fill up before then, and just keep resetting the trip recorder every time you fill up. Phil - what happens if you press the switch? Does it do anything at all? Bleep? Buzz? If nothing at all, the inline fuse providing power to the gas system may have blown.

At the very least you'll need a multimeter and a wiring diagram for the Stag system to find out what voltages should be present at the changeover switch/fuel gauge. However, I don't believe in such coincidences. The switch needs both power and earth so I reckon you've disturbed something while you've been doing the other work. Go back over everything you've done and look for any connectors that have come off etc.

Aircon condenser fan?

Doh! I forgot we were talking hybrid. I don't know if that would load the engine or not then - probably not. I don't know but it will certainly do no harm to check all vents, grilles, filters, air ducts etc., etc., in case they're clogged up with fluff or dust. I did find this after a general googling - notice that Toyota/Lexus is top of the list and seems to be a common problem, although you've already changed the sensor: Anyway, here are the wiring diagrams for you so that you can check the circuits to the MAF NB - Step 1b requires you to put the engine into 'inspection mode' so instructions for that are also included: