Herbie

Even if they don't know what they're doing, that's good advice from Peter because you could then post the results in here and give us something to work with.

You're welcome Jean-Paul 🙂 I notice you're outside the UK but I don't know where but, just a thought - you haven't got the option ticked to only show results from your own country have you? Or the one that lets you set a distance from you? As you can see below, results should come up from almost anywhere unless you have those options selected:

eBay. Just search for what you want and look where the item is located.

Very nice mate, great find.

In that case then Spencer, I apologise. When you said earlier that a guy had been, taken the battery out, charged it and replaced it, I assumed that you were confusing the 12V and the hybrid batteries. It's such a rare occurrence, especially on such a young car (Lexus warranty them for 15 years as long as you have the annual Hybrid Health Check done), that I thought you had to be mistaken. The guy is right, if the engine doesn't start the hybrid battery will flatten but I don't know how long it would take. Both batteries depend on each other - the 12V battery boots the computers to start the hybrid system and get the car READY, then the hybrid battery is used to charge the 12V again via a DC/DC converter and also runs the engine up to speed using one of the motor/generators before applying fuel and spark to fire it. Given the absence of any error codes and not being there to poke about, I'm really not sure what you should do next but, whatever it is, I sincerely wish you all the best for a speedy and reasonably-priced solution.

Have a look at this https://www.hevshop.com/post/lexus-hybrid-battery-replacement-ct200h Is that the battery that he took out and charged? And if so, how long did it take him to charge it?

But I thought you said that he took the battery out to charge it and then put it back in and it showed no signs of anything being wrong with it? If that's correct, what was a jump start required for? What I'm trying to get at is, are you absolutely sure that your 12V battery is in good working order and fully charged? There's been a few people on these forums who have parked at the airport and come back to a flat 12V battery after a two-week holiday so they do discharge quickly. We need to make sure beyond any doubt whatsoever that you have a good battery first or we'll get nowhere. Using a multimeter, check the standing voltage of the 12V battery and compare it to this chart:

I wonder if Steve still has his copy from this posting years ago because that really looks like what you want: EDIT: If Steve can't help and you don't mind buying from the states, I think this is what he has/had http://www.faxonautoliterature.com/1999-Lexus-LS-400-Wiring-Diagram-Manual-Original-P18895.aspx

A quick google found this pdf file but I don't know how useful it'll be as it's for a 2000 car, not 1999. There's also one for a 1995 at the same place https://cardiagn.com/lexus/lexus-ls400/ BODY+ELECTRICAL.pdf

So, when you say that he "jump started the car" did the engine fire up then or not? When you put your foot on the brake do you get the green light on the power switch? Do you hear the "clunk/click" at that point or when you press the power switch?

Welcome to the club Steve

@Sjs1994 I see that the other topic you refer to is dated 27th June, about the car going into 'Traction Battery Preservation Mode'. A couple of people responded, myself included, but you never came back to let us know what happened. Has the car not started since then or has it been running alright? If it's been alright, what did you do to cure the last problem? As Peter said above, this is probably going to need Techstream to diagnose rather than just a generic OBD reader so do you have it, or know someone who has?

That's not the hybrid battery, that's the 12V battery - the traction (hybrid) battery is a nominal 288V and he wouldn't get it out to charge it. The 12V battery powers up the computers that work the entry/exit systems and also the computers to bring the car to the READY state. Once the hybrid system is READY it will then put power to MG1 to crank the engine. What, exactly, is happening? Any warning lights on the dash? Any error codes from the OBD port?

For anyone who thinks my post above is a little harsh, I'll explain. It winds me up no end to hear people say things like this because I feel it's a bit derogatory to a whole section of our society. Some people seem to think that a Lexus is a mythical, magical beast and only the mysterious race of people from the Planet Lex, who have trained at the feet of a golden Unicorn and drunk its purple tears at midnight on the Solstice can possibly be allowed to touch it. It isn't - it's 'a car' and any decent, trusted mechanic, auto-electrician or whatever can deal with it. There are lots of people out there who have spent thousands of hours learning their trades, be that mechanic, auto-electrician or whatever, and if they happen to be self-employed they have also spent thousands of pounds setting up and equipping their garages. These people need our custom to keep a roof over their heads, not just to get another corporate fat-cat another bottle of champagne. If you have basic DIY skills you can even do the job yourself. It took me about 20 - 25 minutes from gathering my tools together to going for a test drive to make sure it was working properly. To take points from above: Mine is and I did it, but if I didn't possess the skills I would have taken it to an auto-electrician, NOT Halfords, who I wouldn't even trust to change a bulb. Mine is. In fact, to get that 3M tape off you have to use something like dental floss and 'saw' it off. All dashcams are valid for continental driving. There is nothing country-specific about them. They don't do an excellent job and are not for me either, but a proper, qualified auto electrician would be. And here's my cam: Wiring taken above headlining and down the inside of that windscreen pillar to fusebox behind glove compartment. Total cost £98.57 but if not DIY then add about £30 for auto-electrician. By the way Terry, the way they work is in a recording loop. I have a 128GB card in mine and if I remember correctly that will hold about 10 hours of full HD video. Once the card is full it starts recording over the earliest stuff and so on in a continuous loop. If you happen to have an accident then the accelerometer detects the shock and automatically locks the relevant files, starting about 30 seconds before impact. This is so those files are protected from being overwritten.

I suppose if you can afford a brand new car then you can afford to be ripped off by extortionate Lexus prices for a dashcam that's nothing special and can't do anything more than a sub-£100 one can do, and also for Lexus fitting that you could do yourself in 20 minutes or any good auto electrician could do for about £30 or even less.

Here you go:

This topic may or may not help but it's worth a bit of time to read the whole thing:

Unfortunately, that's just how it works. I'm a time-served electrician by trade and not long after successfully completing my apprenticeship, the factory closed down and I went onto Post Office Telephones and became a faultsman jointer, dealing with problems in the underground cable network. After a back injury that led to medical retirement I now repair computers for a living and I also hold a full Amateur Radio licence. In other words, most of my life I've been around electrical/electronic stuff, mainly in a breakdown and maintenance capacity and yes, there just are situations like yours where fixing one aspect of something shows up faults elsewhere. Not 'guesswork' but just the nature of the beast. I think I'd be inclined to go the eBay/breakers yard route first. Oh, and unless there's something highly unusual I really can't say why a cable would need to be replaced with the sensor.

OK, I hold my hand up, I'm wrong (as usual as my wife would say!) 🙋‍♂️ 😉

Why would you stop watching because of that? This is the belt he's on about:

Hi Emil and welcome to the club. Nice motor!

Never done it myself because I've got a November 2013 car with LED lights, but this is what the workshop manual says:

Oh dear, not good, but at least it'll all be done under warranty so it's better to find all this now. It's bad for such a young car though - our 2005 RX300 was about 10 years old when we bought it and it didn't have any of those problems.

Put some water in a spray bottle and add Fairy Liquid or other washing-up liquid then spray (or brush if you haven't got a spray bottle) the soapy water over all pipes, joints, struts etc. Where you see bubbles form, there be your air leak

Supposedly yes, but I swear that the only loss of air from my tyres over the last four months has been a tiny amount when attaching and removing my tyre pressure gauge!