Herbie

They are indeed, which is why I would never buy anything like this from Lexus

Have a look at this one

It's a Viofo A119S and it's great. It looks like the price has gone up slightly since I got mine (£103.73 instead of £98.57) but this kit has everything you'll need apart from maybe a piggy-back fuse connector. Alternatively, there's a dual front and rear cam set made by Aukey with very similar cameras. The Youtube video below shows a review of the Aukey set and the guy likes it so much that this is what he uses in his own car - and he's reviewed about 50 dash cams as well as other tech, so I trust him to know what he's on about. I guarantee you won't be disappointed with either the Viofo or the Aukey.

I'm not sure any of that really makes a difference Lee. It may do to us as the drivers, trying to get a better ride or a few more mpg or whatever, but if you're involved in an accident the insurance company will take into account what's written in black and white because that's what the design engineers came up with as the best for the product. I personally know someone who had altered the pressures for whatever reason and then hit a tree in an accident. No other vehicles or people involved, just himself, but the insurance company (or traffic cops, can't remember which) found the discrepancy during the investigations and he either got a reduced payout or none at all. It was about 15 years ago now and I really can't remember but it's always stuck with me that if you mess with pressures there may be unintended consequences, as well as whatever result you're trying to achieve.

One tyre fitter as opposed to three printed sources of information? I think you already know the answer.

Have a look at the pdf file in the topic below. I've got the Advance variant and it's fantastic. I love it so much that I'd sleep in it if I could I purposely stayed away from the Premier models as they have air suspension and cost an absolute fortune if anything goes wrong with it. And to be honest, I really don't think that air offers any great improvement over coil suspension, certainly not enough to justify the extra complexity and cost of fixing it if needed.

Assuming that the DC/DC converter is working alright and you do get about 14.4 - 14.7V when the car is in the READY state, you'll then have to start looking for the source of the parasitic drain. The car needs to be in 'sleep mode' for any chance of tracing the fault. This means that you may need to wait for a couple of hours after switching off the ignition and removing the key (and keep the key out of wireless range too). If the doors have pin switches to operate the internal lights you'll need to put a piece of tape over them so that the ECU thinks the doors are shut and the lights don't come on. Once the car is in sleep mode, a normal quiescent current draw will be about 0.035mA or 35-milliamps. This is to keep the settings of such things as the radio presets, seat memory, alarm, GPS and maybe even more things too. If you find that the current draw is slightly higher, say 0.040mA that may be acceptable for the amount of stuff that needs to be kept alive - maybe Lexus publish figures of what's 'normal' for the car, I don't know? If, on the other hand, the draw is something like 0.080mA or 0.100mA then something is definitely wrong. As an example, if the car has a 50Ah battery and a draw of 0.085mA, it would go from fully charged to fully discharged in about three weeks (if my maths are correct ). It used to be acceptable to disconnect the negative battery clamp and wire an ammeter in series, then measure the draw and pull and replace each fuse in turn until the value dropped and that would be your faulty circuit, but there's a better way to do it now because disconnecting the battery could reset the ECUs and make the very fault that you're chasing, disappear. The preferred method now is to switch your multimeter to a millivolt scale (I know that we've been talking Amps up to now but for this you definitely need it on millivolts) and simply put the test probes across each fuse in turn because you're looking for the voltage drop across the fuse. In very general terms, the higher the voltage drop the more current is flowing, so the highest reading should be your faulty circuit. For a more accurate result you can refer to these charts here. Once you have a circuit that's giving a high reading you can pull that fuse and confirm the actual current draw by switching your meter to the Amps scale and placing the probes into the fuse socket. There's quite a few good videos on Youtube that demonstrate better than I can describe in words, so just search for videos on 'finding parasitic draws' if you want to.

So will a double press of the lock button on the fob.

Rather than a new battery just for testing purposes, why not get a jump start battery pack like this one instead? If the battery is faulty it'll be covered by warranty given that it's only a year old so your money is probably better spent in getting one of these. The 12V batteries in hybrids are small and don't have much capacity so it's not exactly common, but not unheard of either, for people to come back to a flat battery after a two-week holiday and the car has been stood in the airport car park doing nothing. These little units are brilliant and work really well. Small enough to sit in the glove box, it's always handy if it's ever needed. It also stops you from looking like an unhelpful scrote if anyone asks you to provide a jump start for them rather than refusing (because you should never use a hybrid to provide a jump start).

You sure Peter? Doesn't that just double-lock the car? It does on my RX450h.

Or buy a big yellow steering lock - not pretty but deterrent is the best defence. If they think it's too much hassle they'll move to a softer target.

Yes, it is a CD so if your laptop doesn't have an optical disc drive you'll need to get an external one (about £15) or borrow one from someone. The disc is only needed to install the software, not to run it, so once it's installed that's it.

Possibly, I'm not sure. One thing I do know is that some OBD2 codes are manufacturer-specific so a generic reader is very unlikely to be able to read anything to do with Toyota/Lexus hybrid systems. If you've got a laptop then the best thing is to get a miniVCI cable from eBay, as it will come with a copy of Techstream which is the diagnostic software used in the main dealer workshops. Of course, it will be a pirated copy so it's up to your own conscience as to whether you use it or not. You can officially and freely download the software from Lexus and then pay for a block of time to use it, but either way you'll need that miniVCI cable anyway. This is the one I got and I can confirm that it works well.

Good suggestions from Piers above but you also need to check battery voltage when the car is in READY. As you may know, our hybrids don't have a traditional alternator and the 12V battery is charged from the hybrid (traction) battery via a DC/DC converter, so having the car in READY is our equivalent of the engine running and the alternator spinning. You should get around 14.4 - 14.7. If not, then there's something wrong with the inverter/converter.

You need a hybrid health check at Lexus, costs about £60 and as long as it passes, the hybrid batteries are warrantied for up to 15 years old. Looks a nice motor.

Have a look at this topic and any other content by the same guy, BrightonRX300, if this particular topic doesn't have what you need: EDIT: Here's a link to the eBay trader Jon used

Hi Sam and welcome to the club. That looks a lovely car and I'm sure you'll get many, many miles and much pleasure out of her

Never used that so can't say how good it is but I, and lots of others on here, use Nextzett Gummi Pflege and it's excellent. Linky to the Bay of Fleas Linky to Amazon

Hello and welcome to the club Sharon. Love the colour of your car!

Hmm, not meaning any offence Spencer, but I'm genuinely curious - if you're "not very technically minded" why are you on here asking us for technical advice that you wouldn't know what to do with anyway? Why not just get the car to a proper garage or Lexus dealer and let them sort it?

I've never owned or driven anything with air suspension but, having been a passenger in a couple of RXs with air, I honestly can't see much difference. Certainly not enough difference to justify the extra complexity and extra cost of putting things right with an air system if anything goes faulty, anyway. When we were looking for our RX300 we purposely avoided the SE-L variant for that very reason.

With the greatest of respect Karen, if you haven't taken the engine covers off to look what's beneath them and you're being stumped at this first hurdle, perhaps having a garage or auto electrician do the work for you may be the best option? I don't mean that in a nasty way, just trying to save you hassle. Personally, I would tap into the high beam fuse which will possibly be in the engine bay fusebox but I don't know for sure as I don't have a 2016 car. Also, how much power does this light bar take? If it's too much for that circuit to handle along with the high beams, you'll probably have to wire in a relay to do the switching so that it switches on with the high beams but gets its power from somewhere else, ie, direct from the 12V battery rather than the high beam circuit.

Most people don't bother repairing anything to do with the air suspension and change to springs instead. I believe it's over £500 for one air strut and given the age, it's likely that they'll start to go any time soon, so you could get the compressor sorted and then have to start on them. Much better to cut your losses now before it becomes a money pit. If you really want to get it repaired, a quick google shows loads of places in Surrey but obviously they may be more building site and/or garage compressor-oriented rather than automotive ones but got to be worth a call to find out.

Yes, some take the feed from the ignition, some from the parking brake, some from the alternator and some from the fuel pump. It doesn't actually matter as long as they only come on when the engine starts.

They should come on with the ignition and either go off or at least go dim when you turn your side/tail lights on so that they don't dazzle other drivers in the dark.