Herbie

If the scrote with the relay box is at the front of the house and the key is at the furthest point at the back of the house, they can receive the signal.

Honestly don't know but that's what I'm paying so I'm happy

Of course it is. Your car has now reached an age where it makes no sense at all to go to the main dealers for any work or even for parts like brakes etc. The only time you'll need to go there is for some Lexus-specific part that can't be bought anywhere else (which may be the case for these two-part brake discs). There are plenty of excellent garages and mechanics out there who can work on your car to a very high standard. Don't forget that it's a Lexus but it's still 'a car', not some other-worldly thing that's unknown to anyone who doesn't come from the Planet Lex.

This is the actual quote I got from Lexus Teeside and it's 'live' now, in other words I went ahead and signed the paperwork. Don't take any notice of the mileages shown as they made a mistake - it's currently up to 47,874 miles: Maybe they made a mistake or maybe they gave me some other discount, I don't know, but that's the price I got it for (payments being taken monthly).

That's because this trick doesn't work for series 3 RXs, only series 4 from 2015/16 onwards I believe.

This is the video mentioned above, but I don't think her existing system is a Mark Levinson, although I may be wrong:

Or with 'Gold Member' discount from here, just short of £570

£39.95 per annum - well worth it in my opinion.

Well there you go - every day is a school day! That's why I love forums like this, because there's always something new to learn. I suppose looking at it logically the coolant only needs to flow when the engine is working so it can be belt-driven. No point in squirting water around the system when the engine isn't working so no need for an electric water pump. Cheers Alan

If only life were that simple It's a completely different engine and a completely different set up. The RX350 is a petrol engine and the water pump is belt driven from the engine. Because the engine doesn't run all the time in a hybrid nothing can be belt-driven, so the water pump in a 450h is electrically operated. Different engine, different pump, different orientation, different everything.

That sensor from China should be fine. In the meantime, have you taken yours off to see if its repairable? Could just need the internal contacts cleaning or one of the springs replaced.

There's no real need to get hung up about service history, or at least not about having a full Lexus history. I used to do all my own servicing and most jobs on the car when I was physically able to, but I couldn't put a stamp in the book. What I could, and did do, was to keep all the receipts for parts and mark the mileage on the receipt so that it tallied with MOT history etc. Also, Lexus servicing is not cheap so when a car gets to a certain age (maybe 9 or 10 years old) there's absolutely no point in spending extortionate amounts at a main dealers. As I've said in many postings, it may be a Lexus but it's still just 'a car' and any reputable, trusted, garage will be able to service it. There may also be people who have a close family member in the trade. For instance, if you have a brother who's a good mechanic and he says, "You buy the parts and I'll do the service in exchange for you looking after the kids this Saturday night", you're not going to turn him down in order to spend a few hundred quid at Lexus are you? And finally there's people like me who buy a car and run it for years and years until it dies, so resale value and stamps in the book mean nothing.

Very true - but not very secure. You need to keep luggage below the cargo cover to keep things away from prying eyes that may think, "I'm having that!"

I do believe you're right Eddy, well done, I missed that.

It looks like you may have to remove the seat to get at the connectors but it's difficult to say for certain. The workshop manual is available to download from a previous topic here:

Have you definitely pulled the correct fuse? Top row, fourth from left according to this?

Glad you got it sorted I may be wrong but I thought Winzip only offers a 30-day trial and then if you want to continue using it you have to pay. If that's the case then I can highly recommend 7-zip, which is completely free and available from https://www.7-zip.org/

Although I haven't got a CT I just downloaded and tried this now and it works perfectly as you'll see from the screenshot below. I've included a pdf file with instructions which, although not specifically intended for the CT manual, may help you. Tried it in Internet Explorer, Edge, Chrome and Firefox - the only one that doesn't work is Firefox. READ ME FIRST.pdf

Just don't have children!

Thanks for that info Phil, it just looked a logical way through but obviously not that easy. Adam, no worries mate. I'll often do a 'dry run' first to make sure things fit and work then tidy it all up after. It's only that apparent sharp edges and possible high-resistance joints make me nervous 😉 I have to say though, I'm very impressed with the mirror itself, it seems to work really well.

Good job Adam but there's just a couple of things that maybe could be improved. First of all, I must say that I may have completely the wrong end of the stick. There's no single photo that shows everything so I may be making wrong assumptions and if I am, then I'm sorry. The first thing that really attracted my attention is that square hole that you've pushed the cable through seems to have some very rough edges that may well damage the cable. At the very least you need some grommet strip around those edges (eBay, Amazon or electrical suppliers local to you): I'm assuming that you've mounted the camera somewhere near the licence plate and that the licence plate is on the boot lid? If that's correct then it looks like it may have been possible to route the cable in the conduit and braided sleeve arrowed below (or if not in the braided sleeve, maybe taped to the outside) which I'm assuming (again) routes through the circular grommet next to the sharp-edged hole that you've used. Again, I'm only guessing/assuming here because there is no photo that shows both ends of the cable run. And finally: Please tell me that you haven't just poked that copper wire into the top of the plug? If the connection isn't tight it will cause a high-resistance joint which could be a fire risk, or at the very least it'll just work loose and drop out within a week. You need to cut along the sleeving (in fact, it doesn't look very long so I'd cut the whole sleeve off to give you a decent length of wire to work with) and then cut the individual wire you want about half-way along its length, put some heatshrink sleeving on, solder the three ends together and then shrink the sleeving to close the joint - or you could use crimped terminals instead of soldering. Once the joint is done and closed, either get a piece of the ribbed conduit and use that to replace the sleeve that you cut off earlier, or wrap the whole length with harness tape, up to and including where it meets the ribbed conduit.

You really need a multimeter to check properly. Cheap ones can be had for under a tenner but even very good ones can be as little as £30. This is the one that I have but there's a couple at even less than a fiver if you don't want to spend much. Linky to multimeters at Amazon You need to check standing battery voltage against the chart below and when the engine is running and the alternator spinning you should get about 14.4 - 14.7V. If you don't want to buy a multimeter, start the engine and switch on high-load things such as headlight high beams, heated rear screen, seat heaters etc. You may find that the headlights look dull but if they brighten up as you rev the engine then the alternator is working, but without a meter you won't know how well it's working.

Now that is a beautiful car! I hope you're not someone who only does about 3k miles a year, but rather a person who will use it often and enjoy it to the full, because that is quite spectacular.

I think this fusebox is behind the glove compartment but not totally sure, but it's the fourth fuse from the left, bottom row:

Yes, this is a known problem with cameras that use suction cup mounts. I don't think anything can be done about it other than changing the camera for one that doesn't use a suction mount or maybe an adhesive mount is available for your particular model of camera? Those 3M adhesive pads really do stick well and as I mentioned earlier, you literally have to 'saw' them off the screen with dental floss or something similar.