Herbie

The warranty comes with full AA cover, even full European cover, so they will get it to the dealers if it can't be driven. Service plans are dealer-group specific but the warranty can be claimed on nationwide, Land's End to John O'Groats and all points in between. The two-for-one price has been running for a long time and seems to be 'the norm' but I suppose that could change at any time, so if Ben has the money at this moment it would make sense to pay for it now and it will commence cover as the first year warranty ends. The problem is, as I've mentioned in other posts, the requirement to have servicing done at the dealers too. The warranty itself is great value but then you have to also add in the costs of servicing - and when you're used to low mates rates like I've been for years, that is a major shock.

What's that Eamonn, I've never heard of it?

Looks great, I'm sure you'll love it. Just remember to keep up with the Hybrid Health Check every year so that the traction battery will be covered up to 15 years old.

I think you'll find that's Watt-hours Lee, not Kilowatt-hours

Yep, that's right I'm not quite sure because it's been a couple of years since I last did it. I have a mate who is a fully-qualified mechanic and works for a Vauxhall main dealer. I asked him to change the fluid and filter and when he'd finished and I picked up the car, he said to keep my eye on the level for a couple of days to make sure there were no leaks or anything untoward. The first time I checked I had to ring him and say that I thought he'd over-filled it because it was over the 'Full' mark, to which his reply was, "Turn the dipstick over" and I was amazed to find that it was absolutely bob-on the mark, which is how I know that you have to look at the 'correct' side - but can't remember which side that is

It's irrelevant. The correct way to check is to get the engine to normal running temperature and sit the car on level ground with the gear selector in P, then move the selector through all positions, allowing time for the change to complete, and the same back up to P again, then read the level. That's the only measurement that matters so don't worry about what it's like when cold. Oh, and make sure you're reading the correct side of the dipstick. As daft as it sounds, I seem to recall that my RX300 showed different levels on each side of the dipstick, presumably due to how it sits in the fluid.

Ah, the Lexus Paradox strikes again People are attracted to the brand because of the reputation of reliability and then get a warranty just in case it's not reliable. It used to make me laugh and to an extent it still does. However, I became one of these people myself when we got our current car and that was for a couple of reasons. 1. These cars are just so complex and parts so expensive (even a single headlight is over £800 and is a sealed unit so individual bulbs (LEDs) can't be replaced). 2. This is the newest and most expensive car we've ever had, so it just seemed to make sense to do it for a little while at least. The warranty cost is actually very reasonable - it's the requirement to have servicing done at the dealers that's the killer. I'm used to paying mates rates for servicing!

And if you go with the Extended Warranty you also get full breakdown cover (including Europe) provided by the AA, which covers you and your partner to claim for any car you happen to be travelling in.

Are you looking far enough up? You quite often have to lie on your back with your head looking right up to the top of the dash, not kneeling outside the car and looking 'forwards' to the engine bay.

I wonder why they would disable it? Even my 2005 RX300 had this feature and I can see no reason whatsoever as to why some more modern cars wouldn't.

If you mean that you want the door mirrors to dip downwards when you select reverse gear, if you just push the mirror selection switch to either L or R and leave it there, they should then both dip down when you select reverse. That's how it works on my 2013 RX450h.

The Harrier is the RX300 here. Someone on this forum has one and I think it looks almost identical but I'm sure his only has a 2 litre engine, but may well be wrong.

Looks excellent. Every MOT has passed first time without a single advisory on any of them and a FLSH.

I don't think you're being cheeky, but I think you are being unrealistic. I've no doubt that you'll find one at that price but it'll be in a worse condition, which leads me to wonder if you really want one anyway or if you'd be more comfortable sticking with your BMWs?

@james250 The post above is the first one from you since the 25th so how have you gone on - any progress?

I think you've misunderstood Phil. We now have a hybrid but it was our old RX300 non-hybrid that we had converted to LPG. Although it is technically possible to convert a hybrid and some people have, personally I wouldn't. I really don't see the point in adding another layer of complexity into a car that is already very complex as it is.

We had intended to keep our RX300 for at least five years and probably more but we had a change of circumstances and received some inheritance money, so we traded it in for our current car just two years after buying it. It had 79k miles on when we bought it and about 102k when we sold it. It was absolutely rock-solid and I'm confident that it would have gone on for another 100k miles at least. Within a month of buying it and knowing we were keeping it for a long time, we had it converted to LPG and it was excellent. The conversion cost about £1,400 if I remember right but was well worth it. I seem to remember that running on petrol was coming out at about 22.5p per mile but after conversion, running on LPG was about 12 or 13p per mile.

Any progress on this Steven?

Hi Nadeem and welcome to the club. We had a 2005 RX300 before trading up to our current RX450h so I know you'll love the car Let's see some photos of your new beast when you can, and if you need to ask any questions or need any help, be sure to post in the dedicated RX forum rather than this 'New Members' area. There's lots of helpful folk around and I'm sure you'll get any answers you need. Above all else, enjoy the car!

I have never, ever, known anyone having to replace their cat because it 'wore out'. They just keep on working for the whole life of the car (a catalyst is something which enables a reaction between other substances but which is not altered in any way itself) so an old one is just as good as a new one, ergo there can be no betterment.

Although the text is mangled these may help with locating what you need - but I'd still take it to a specialist anyway:

I would have absolutely no confidence in Halfords to do something like this anyway. As we know from another recent thread someone on here took their RX450h hybrid to Halfords for a regas and they caused hundreds of pounds-worth of damage. The branch he used didn't have a proper aircon machine to carry out the work. All they did was to basically use a 'top-up' can of gas, open the tap until no more would go in and then close the tap. The proper procedure is to hook it up to the machine, recover what gas is in there and check the quantity, pull a vacuum on the system and see if it holds and if it does, refill the system with the correct amount of gas. What I'm saying is that if they've done the same on your car, maybe it's simply still blowing warm because it's not got the correct quantity of gas in the system. I would take it to a proper aircon specialist to let them diagnose it properly.

Sorry, I don't know the answer to your question but it would seem very strange for a "solar sensor" to be under anything - surely it's purpose is to detect sunlight/daylight/temperature so would need to be up near window height somewhere? It also depends where the car was when they ran the diagnostic. Because it's looking for solar radiation (light) if the car was in a garage bay or somewhere out of daylight, it wouldn't be unusual for these codes to come up. Try clearing the codes and look again in daylight or when shining a torch on the sensor.

First guy has a relay box so they have the equipment, but don't want the hassle of removing the steering lock. I do admit that all steering locks are not equal but the one I have has been tested by two motoring organisations and each time took more than five minutes of attacking it with hammers, saws and chisels to defeat it. That's five minutes of noise and hassle that they just don't want or need.

No doubt the Ghost system is good but it can only come into effect once the scrotes are already in your pride and joy, at which point they may become vindictive and frustrated at not being able to drive it away and cause damage like ripping through the leather seats with a knife or some other damage. I still reckon deterrent is the best plan. Make them think it's too much hassle and they'll move to an easier target.