Herbie

You're welcome Sam, glad it's worked for you. Happy motoring!

Thanks Barry

Will do, thanks chaps.

I think I already know that the answer to this question will be "no" but I may as well ask the hive mind. My centre console armrest seems to have given up the ghost and died. I passed my driving test in June 1975 and I've had numerous cars since then with centre consoles and/or armrests and absolutely none of them have ever broken. Given that, and also given that it's a late 2013 Lexus that's only done about 47k miles, I'm wondering if it may be covered by the Lexus Extended Warranty that we have on the car? In the first photo below two little plastic inserts have broken and no longer retain the springs that they should, whilst in the second photo you can see that both screw posts have broken so there's nothing for their screws to drive into. I have no idea how this happened but it was 'all in one go' as far as I know, unless I missed something breaking first which led onto a second event, but I doubt that. So, warranty or not, do you think?

That's right, the tail light fuse is the 10A one, second in from the right on the top row, and the stop light fuse is another 10A one, further along that row to the left. I hope it is just the fuse so that it's an easy fix for you but if not, get it straight back to the dealer you bought it from because it's their job to put it right. Unfortunately, if it was a private sale then I think you'll just have to sort any problems yourself.

Hi Samantha and welcome to the club. The Instrument Panel J/B is what you're looking for and it's located in the passenger footwell, behind the glove box:

I'm still not convinced by this. Section 8.2.1.1 of the MOT Inspection Manual states that the inspector need only check items that are "visible and identifiable" such as catalytic converters etc., and if it's missing then it's a Major Defect (a fail). HOWEVER - that inspection is ONLY for vehicles that must have a full CAT test. Most cars only need a Basic Emissions Test (BET) and if they pass that then that's it, no need to go on to a CAT test and therefore no need to inspect the cat. It's also worth noting that hybrid cars do not need any sort of emissions testing so it follows that a missing cat should not be a fail. I also believe that even given the above, the exhaust system still has to be visually inspected but, crucially, only for security to make sure it's not going to drop off and/or that there are no leaks.

Ah, right, I didn't realise that - I thought it was ducted to receive air from the aircon.

I would very much doubt it - I doubt if they would put air ducting in for the ventilation if the model variant didn't have it specified at the factory, but someone more knowledgeable than I may come along to put me right. I'm just thinking that heated and vented may be for top of the range, so they wouldn't waste money on installing ducting on a lesser model.

Sounds like a stripped gear or something along those lines. I think that at the very least you'll need to find a workshop manual to see how to get in there. If you search the forum I'm almost certain that someone provided a link to one that could be downloaded.

It's probably just the colder weather dropping the pressure a bit. Drive it around for 5 minutes and as the air in the tyre heats up, the pressure in there increases and will put the light out again. Probably just needs topping up a little bit. Always adjust tyre pressures when the tyres are cold, either before the car moves anywhere or a couple of hours after it's been parked up. EDIT: Some Youtube videos showing how to replace pressure sensor batteries if that really is what's needed: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=gs300+tpms+battery+replacement SECOND EDIT: The system may just need to be reset, so have a look down that list of videos and you'll see one or two showing you how to do that.

Excellent result Andy, but why not just post the photos directly in here? Clicked on the first photo and it took me to Imgur and, silly me, I then thought that clicking on the 'Next Post' button would take me to the next photo in your sequence - but it was something to do with a lion! Each time it opens a new window to Imgur which then needs to be closed down to come back here and click on your next one, which does the same thing again, whereas uploading them here in your post allows us to see them all in one operation, in sequence.

Any further details for these Barry - make, model, where to buy etc., etc? I don't need them for the same purpose as you but I could use something like that on another project.

Hmm, curioser and curiouser as Alice would say. I've scoured the workshop manual but absolutely no mention whatsoever of an oil level switch other than how to inspect it (as in Step 5 of that last picture above). No mention of where it's located or how to get to it, no mention of electrical resistances or anything. The only clue as to its location was found in the following illustration from 7zap.

You're right Mark, it does seem obvious and I think it was my fault in latching onto the word "pressure" in the OP's opening line and diverting the conversation: I really must learn to read things properly first before replying

There doesn't appear to be any mention of an oil level float in the sump, as you can see from the 'On car inspection' instructions in the workshop manual - only thing for measuring oil is the dipstick as far as I can tell: EDIT: Well there you go, every day is a school day as the saying goes. I had a look at the workshop manual for the meter/gauge system - lo and behold, that does indeed give instructions for inspection of the low oil level warning display - Step No. 5 below: Just got to nip out but when I get back I'll find the procedure for replacing the float and post it up for you. WEll done Mark for pointing that out.

Maybe it's just me (my only Lexuses or is that Lexi?) have been RXs not saloon cars but to me, these are two completely different cars so it depends what you want. The LS430 exudes timeless class, sophistication, luxury, whereas that GS (to me) just looks dated and drab. I've never liked the rear ends of the GS and I really do not like the rear lights. Just my tuppenceworth

Just looked at the workshop manual and it is indeed a very big job. You have to remove all sorts of stuff. In fact, Step No. 1 says "Remove engine and transaxle assembly" In the screenshot below, Step No 1 has the words "Click Here" underneath it. When you do click on it, another window opens with more than 110 steps, just to remove the engine/transaxle assembly alone - then there's another 36 steps to get to the oil pump! These cars are complicated and I can't see it being as simple as the oil pressure switch clicking in and turning the warning light on. It's more likely that the switch will send a signal to an ECU for it to do something, so it could be a faulty ECU or a strange signal level turning the warning light on in error, when there really isn't a problem at all. Given that, I think first step would be to get an oil pressure gauge attached to see what the actual pressure really is and compare to what it should be, before thinking of changing the oil pump. Good luck!

Well I'm no mechanic, but logically I would think so. The engine can't be burning oil or you'd have to keep topping it up. There can't be any oil leaks or you'd have to keep topping it up. The 'Low Oil Pressure' warning light is on, but as long as your dipstick is showing the correct amount of oil in there (it is, isn't it?) then it can't be lack of oil causing low pressure. If you've swapped the oil pressure switch for a known good one, then logically, the only other thing that's left is the thing that creates the oil pressure in the first place, ie, the oil pump. But again, I'm no mechanic so take my input as you will.

Have a look at the replies you got in the other thread when you first asked this question:

You're welcome James, no problem. I honestly don't know if it would fit or not. Like you, I can't see any difference, BUT (1) I've never had an IS250 and (2) I'm not a mechanic, so my observations are not necessarily to be taken as being correct. I'm afraid you need someone with greater knowledge than me before you spend your hard-earned cash.

The 350 is higher road tax here in the UK but I don't know about France. Whichever one you go for you'll have to change over the headlights for left-hand drive units. I know that people just put on beam deflector stickers for a couple of weeks holiday but actually living there and getting it through a French MOT is quite a different kettle of fish altogether. Both are built on the same body shell and have the same interior as far as I know, but I'd say the more economical one would be the 400h. Hope all goes well and you find what you want.

But possibly not as efficient? The batteries need lots of cool air but maybe higher up with more ducting would reduce the airflow.

In that case then Barry, I can only suggest that there's something wrong with your car. As I said above, the RX brakes are amongst the best, if not the best brakes I've experienced on any car and I've driven many brands of cars, as well as many different vans and vehicles during my days as a telephone engineer on BT. Given that, and also the fact that very few others on here have voiced the same concerns as you, I can only reiterate that you seem to be the odd one out so it must be your car.

Hybrid cars are not emissions-tested anyway so they can't fail an emissions test. However, there is some debate around whether an MOT tester would fail it if he knew there should be one underneath but all he sees is a straight bit of pipe where the cat should be.