Herbie

Good point, so yes, I'll give that a go, cheers Peter. However, it's Saturday afternoon and even if it works then I won't get a reply until Monday and I was hoping for something sooner 🙂

If you take off the lid of the fusebox it'll have a list of fuses and what they're for, on the inside. Then, Google becomes your friend for wiring diagrams and explanations. I don't know about your car but in the RXs the cig lighter/power sockets are only live with ignition so look for one of those.

Poorboys Black Hole Glaze, and then I use Autoglym SRP on top.

Because they are closed due to the virus crisis. Plus, that wouldn't give me tangible proof to show to this guy anyway.

Does anyone have any proof (such as an invoice for work done or maybe a link to a website) of the hourly labour charges at Lexus main dealer workshops? I'm not talking about servicing because that's either done on a flat-rate basis or a service plan. I'm talking about just a random fault or problem but instead of going to a local garage to get it sorted, you went to a main dealer instead. I'm sure that I read somewhere in these forums that Lexus charge around £130 per hour, but having told this to someone who doesn't believe it I'd like to back up my statement with proof and of course, now that I want that info I can't find it anywhere I'm aware that there will be regional variations but I don't think that'll matter in this context.

It is true, no denying that. Also true the other way as well; when I'm listening to Gregorian Chant I tend to drive much more sedately.

As we've said before, this is not electrically necessary but is purely a safety thing to minimise the risk of igniting the hydrogen gas eminating from a charging battery. Just out of curiosity, has anyone ever heard of, or seen first-hand, this happening? I wonder just how real the risk is? I've been driving since June 1975 and never come across this happening at all - not in a car or garage setting anyway. As you'll know from previous posts I used to be a telephone engineer on BT and telephone exchanges had big battery rooms to keep the network up in the case of a power outage. Of course, in a commercial setting like that, no naked flames were allowed in the battery rooms and they all had a good ventilation system, but never heard of it happening there either. A telephone exchange battery room:

Fair enough chaps, I was just getting confused by terminologies. I think of a true deep-cycle battery being the mobility scooter/wheelchair type, where we charge up my wife's scooter and often go for walks (rides in her case) where the battery gets so flat that I sometimes have to leave her there while I go back for the car. Once we get home, slap it on charge and it's ready to do the same thing again the next day. Obviously, the 12V batteries in our RXs never see service like that so I never think of them being deep discharge batteries.

I haven't got an LS430 but I would think the most likely cause is just that the steering lock was just being a bit tempremental. A slight wiggle left/right of the wheel while trying to turn the key should do it.

Barry, you've mentioned "deep cycling" a time or two in this thread and I'm wondering why? As far as I know the RX450h doesn't leave the factory with a deep cycle battery - they are the type fitted to mobility scooters and (I believe) cars with stop/start technology, which of course the RX isn't.

I know, but Nemesis talked about load, speed and accelerator position, which would all imply a moving car.

And cabin temperature. The engine is the only source of heat so if you have the cabin nice and warm, the engine will be firing more often.

Of course, a trickle charger is the best way of all but as the OP said, he can't do that. I would imagine that wasting petrol is the worst way of keeping the 12V battery charged but if there's no other way then it has to do. The traction battery will be alright for a couple of months at least, I would imagine. We are going out to buy food and as we only have the one car, it gets topped up by proper running anyway.

One or other (perhaps even both) of the two items arrowed should be the positive terminal - it just looks like the red cover is missing. If it's not marked as such, check with a multimeter. If you haven't got a multimeter then just a 12V bulb will do as a test lamp.

Toyota's own advice on their website says that to keep the 12V battery topped up during the lockdown period, put the car into the READY state for about 60 minutes each week (making sure that other things like the radio, the climate control etc., are off) with the transmission in Park, and the engine will run as and when necessary to do the job. Obviously, don't leave the car unattended whilst doing this

https://www.lexus-tech.eu/Menu/Repair

There's a few secondhand units on eBay from about £400 upwards, but you really need to make sure that a swap will cure it first, so as John says, the workshop manual is a good place to start.

Putting the search string "Lexus code P0A1B" (without the quotes) into Google brings up a few possibilities, none of which sound cheap.

Yes it does John, and I am indeed on one. It's just that my mate used to charge me £30 plus parts

Glad we got there in the end my friend

It really depends on the age of the car and if you intend to drive it until it dies or sell it on. I used to love working on my own car and over the years I've had engines in and out, stripped down, repaired this, that and the other, and done all my own servicing. My back injury now prevents me from doing any of that and, of course, if you service it yourself you don't get the stamp in the book. My point is, Lexus labour charges are extortionate but, once a car gets beyond a certain age, why would you take it to the main dealers anyway? There are many excellent garages and mechanics out there and things like cam belt/water pump changes, brakes and other routine stuff are their bread-and-butter jobs, well within the scope and capabilities of any decent mechanic worth his salt, at prices far more reasonable than Lexus main dealers, so in that scenario, an expensive extended warranty may not make sense. The killer for me, although I do have an extended warranty at the moment, is the requirement to also have servicing done at the main dealers as a condition of the warranty. I'm more used to paying "mates rates" for servicing and it was quite a shock when I had to pay for Lexus servicing. However, my car is still young enough yet to justify the warranty so hey-ho.

No Geoff, iCloud is open to any operating system and I'm using Windows 10 Pro 64-bit on this desktop machine. Can you perhaps click on that picture of the cloud above your email address? Do you see anything if you click on the 'Account Details' button? Failing that, I'll let someone else take over who is more familiar with iCloud because I don't use it. Just a thought - you are using a browser and going to https://www.icloud.com/ are you, rather than using an iCloud app? Try clicking on that link to see what happens.

Many, many, moons ago I had the misfortune to have to use an iPhone 4S and I created an iCloud account at that point. I literally haven't logged into that account for probably 8 years but, having done it just now, you can see what it looks like below - NB, this is the very first screen I'm presented with Geoff. Your screenshot looks like you're already beyond that and may be in a settings page. My only idea is that you perhaps have auto login set so that you don't have to login each time? Try signing out and going back in again? The second screenshot below shows the screen I see if I go to my settings page. EDIT: These are screenshots when I look at iCloud.com on my Windows 10 desktop machine. If you're logging into iCloud using a tablet or phone, it may well look different so if you are, I'd try again but use a proper Windows computer.

If that really is the case then you should name and shame just who these so-called "auto electricians" are, because a true auto electrician wouldn't just rely on codes and give up when they "couldn't get communication". They would start to do some proper diagnostic fault-finding and find out why this is happening, not just say, "It's not communicating so I can't do anything". I see you're in Lancashire. If you're anywhere near Preston I can highly recommend Ribblesdale Auto Electrics on Marsh Lane: https://ribblesdaleauto.co.uk/services/electrical-repairs/ If you're too far away or whatever, all I can suggest is to make sure the battery is fully charged against the chart below and that ALL connections including the battery posts, clamps, earth straps (including battery to chassis and engine to chassis) and all alternator connections are clean and tight. It sounds like it could be a main fuse so check for voltage in and out of the fuse block or check for continuity across the fuse - some fuses can look alright but have indeed blown. EDIT: Did you, or these so-called auto electricians, check what the error codes mean? It appears that B2799 has something to do with the keys and/or the immobiliser, which may explain a lot. The Youtube video below may or may not help, I don't know, but it may at least give you a starting point from which to Google further: