Herbie

Yes there is - just search eBay or Amazon and you should find something suitable. If you have access to a laptop then the best thing is to buy a miniVCI cable, again, from the Bay of Fleas or Amazon. These cables almost always come with a pirated copy of Techstream, which is the exact same diagnostic software that Lexus Techs use in the dealer workshops. Of course, I'm not advocating the use of pirated software, that's a matter for your own conscience. The correct way would be to download a free and legitimate copy of Techstream from Lexus themselves and then buy a block of time (1 hour, 4 hours, a day etc., etc) to use it when you want to. Whatever you decide though, you'll still need that miniVCI cable anyway, to connect the laptop to the car.

The extended warranty (or in Peter's case, the original warranty) is a nationwide thing and is not dealer-specific. You can go anywhere for warranty work. The service plans are dealer-group specific and can't be taken out of group. For instance, I live in Preston and Lexus Preston is part of the Vantage Motor Group, so I could take the car to any of the Vantage dealerships to have the servicing done, but I couldn't take it to Lexus Bolton or Lexus Teeside who are, I believe, part of the RMB Group (may be wrong with that but you get the idea).

Excellent result Lucille, really pleased for you!

I think there must be different kinds of CD changer and slots. This holder doesn't intrude into the slot very far so doesn't interfere with any workings at all.

No, it's a 6-CD changer. The slot mount doesn't interfere with playing CDs and it doesn't scratch or mark in any way at all.

I used one of these on my last car and it worked really, really well, so I can highly recommend them. There's plenty of Youtube videos showing how to do it too.

I use one of these from https://cdslotmount.com/ and it's brilliant.

I don't know the answer to your question but if it's old and you want to update then you'll have to get it out anyway, so I'd keep trying with that.

@royoftherovers John, I recently discovered First Aid Kit when I was watching something on TV and they played a song that sounded really good. I used to wait for the final credits to roll and see who it was but this current fad of shrinking credits to advertise other upcoming programmes has put paid to that, so now I fire up Shazam or SoundHound on my phone to listen to whatever it is and it usually works. In this particular case it was First Aid Kit's "Fireworks" so I then went to Youtube and started listening, and I really do like them. I love the Youtube algorithm and often spend hours down the rabbit hole as the algorithm suggests "If you liked that, you'll probably like this". I've found many new bands and music this way, and lots of other interesting stuff too.

Hmm..... to be honest I'm not surprised to see the list of Halfords exceptions. I never go there unless it's for a 'distress purchase' when other places are shut. We have a great shop here in Preston, Longton Battery Services, http://www.longtonbatteryservices.co.uk/ who's website is abysmal but the shop and staff are superb. I had a battery replaced by them, no questions asked, 3.5 years into a 4 year warranty - and they even delivered the new one and took the old one away!

Daniel, I've just listened to the first 10 and they are so far out of my usual comfort zone that I can't say it's 'love at first listen' but I am quite impressed and I'm certainly looking forward to listening to the rest of the list, so thanks very much for that my friend, cheers.

The file in this topic should help you:

Surely it should have been replaced under warranty then shouldn't it? Many batteries come with 3 or 4 year warranties these days but even if your's didn't then there's a 12-month manufacturer's warranty on almost anything, not to mention statutory rights etc.

That's really the only way to do it There won't be any adverse effects on anything else. All you're doing is taking a supply, you're not feeding anything back in. If you still prefer to err on the side of caution then you'll need the wiring diagrams to work back to the fuse and check on the rating, but I'd imagine that the regulator would draw such little extra current from the chosen circuit as to make no difference whatsoever.

I repair computers for a living and people will often say to me something like, "Is it too old or too bad to be repaired"? If I know that it can be repaired, I usually say, "If you specifically want to go and buy a new one then by all means do so, but just ask yourself one thing. If it was working alright, would it do everything you want it to? If the answer is yes, then you don't need to spend hundreds of pounds to buy something new". I suppose the same rationale could be applied to cars as well. If the rest of the car is good and doing this one repair may get you many thousands of miles more then it may be worth doing. But if you want something new anyway then yes, go for it - I love spending other people's money Whatever you decide Robert, I wish you well with it.

I don't mind using aftermarket parts like wipers, batteries, tyres, brake components and suchlike, but I would never go with any alternative fluids. Always OEM for any fluids.

Not sure what you mean by being the "reference" Brendan? No offence meant but that is really bad advice from a safety perspective. If the spanner slips and makes contact with any earthed point whilst still in contact with the positive clamp, it will cause a short circuit with lots of sparks, explosion risk, burns risk and even possibly weld the spanner in place - and I have seen that happen. This is why you should always disconnect the negative terminal first - and once that's off, why would you need to disconnect the positive terminal anyway?

Why not change to coils rather than air? Someone on here did just that and got the set of four for under £800.

Somewhere in this forum is a topic on this very subject, but I can't remember who started it or when it was. I know that he found an engineering company somewhere down south who would get the old one off and fit a new top mount if you send them the strut. The search function on this board isn't the best but unless someone else can point you to the topic in question, you may have to give it a go. Never mind, just found it:

Good Irrespective of who asks or answers the question, politeness and manners apply to all, do they not?

It's not about something being obvious or about one question or a hundred questions - it's about good manners and expectations. I would never dream of asking others to help me without exhausting all avenues of trying to help myself first. If his opening statement had been "I can't seem to find my manual at the moment so can anybody tell me...." then that would have been great, no problem at all. But to start with "To save me digging out the manual...." just implies that he can't be bothered and expects somebody else to dig out their manual on his behalf.

I suppose it's a matter of perspective really. Ok, I can understand that Alan may have mislaid his manual or perhaps it's even packed away while some refurb work is going on in the house, which is all fair enough. However, it probably took longer to type out his post than it would have to go to https://www.lexus.co.uk/owners/about-my-lexus/manuals/ and download a new copy of the manual. If the manual isn't available there then fair enough, come to ask for help in the forum. As I said above, I will help anyone at any time and I enjoy doing it, but shirking all your own responsibility isn't really on, is it?

I literally have never heard of a single one from that entire list Daniel. I expect it's a generational thing but I will look up one or two of them on Youtube and see what it's all about.

The manual is inaccurate in a couple of respects and makes it much more hassle than it needs to be. First of all, there's nothing magical or mysterious about jump starting any car, hybrid or conventional. All you are doing is supplementing one dodgy 12v source by piggybacking a good 12v source onto it and as long as you get red or + to red or +, and black or - to black or -, then that's basically it. It doesn't matter electrically if you connect the jump leads directly to the battery or if you use the jump start post in the engine bay fusebox, 12v is 12v and where it comes from matters not a jot. The only reason why you maybe should connect the negative cable to a bare metal part away from the battery is that a charging battery can give off Hydrogen gas and a spark as you disconnect the lead could ignite it and cause an explosion. However, in more than 45 years of driving and messing with jump leads I've never seen this happen in person, nor do I know anyone else who has ever seen it happen either. The advice to have the donor car's engine running isn't strictly necessary either. It would be for a conventional car but not if the recipient car is a hybrid. The reason for this is that a conventional car has a starter motor that will draw more than 300A when cranking the engine. Once the engine is running and the alternator is spinning, it's the alternator that supplies all of the car's electrical needs, so if the donor car's battery wasn't up to the job then the recipient car will draw current from the donor alternator, hence why the engine needs to be running. Our hybrids don't have starter motors (or alternators) so all that our 12v battery has to do is to boot the computers and get the hybrid system up and running, a process that takes less than 20A, which is something that the donor battery can quite easily supply on its own. As an aside, a hybrid should never be used to jump start another car (unless it's also a hybrid) for similar reasons. Our cars don't have alternators so the 12v battery is charged by means of a DC/DC converter, which takes power from the 288v traction battery and steps it down to about 14.5v. Remember that a conventional starter motor can draw over 300A to crank the engine, so if our 12v battery wasn't up to the job the recipient car would look to our equivalent of the alternator to provide it. Unfortunately, the DC/DC converters just can't supply that and there would most likely be a big bang and an escape of the magic smoke that makes the converter work, followed by a huge bill to replace it. Instead of jump leads which need a second car to be present, I carry a jump start battery pack similar to this one in the glovebox. They work really well and are well worth it for peace of mind alone. I've also fitted a much more convenient way of connecting it too, should I ever need to do it, as you'll see in this topic I posted recently:

Not really. I like to help people when I can but I don't expect to spoon-feed them. I expect them to have done some googling and/or other research first and then come to the forum for help if they haven't been able to sort it themselves.