Herbie

Surely that can't have been caused by hitting a post? It's a circular hole that's been drilled through the undertray, or at least that's what it looks like to me, but for what purpose I don't know. Aircon condensate drain?

My 91 year old next door neighbour is a sprightly chap. He still plays golf, crown green bowling, and is still fit and physically active. Purely because of his age, his premium went to £1,478 for a small Peugeot 107.

Firstly, in various tests and reviews it took more than 5 minutes to defeat, and that's going at it with hammers, chisels and saws. Secondly, just ease of use. It's far easier to use and store than the full disk-cover types; when I take it off I just plonk it on the floor behind my seat. Oh, and it doesn't damage the steering wheel either. I've seen some people say that the disk-lok is a tight fit so it could cause some damage.

No, you can't turn off the fobs. If I remember correctly that was 2015 onwards, ie, Gen4. Prevention is better than cure so I use a Stoplok Pro Elite steering wheel lock on mine, in the hope that they'll see it and move on to an easier target - the immobiliser would only come into play when they're already in your pride and joy. Having said that, I'm going to have a Pandora system fitted to mine; the problem is deciding which one.

Have you actually read the OBD codes to see if anything is flagged up?

Erm...plug something into the back one and if it works, try that thing in the front one. If it works there's power there but if it doesn't work then there's no power there? If it really isn't working then check the fuse is ok and if it is, you'll need a 12V test lamp at the very least, but a multimeter is MUCH more preferable because you use it to test for voltage and also for continuity.

Definitely didn't want to do it. Even a hobby mechanic can have it done in about an hour. Not exactly the same thing but this video will show you the gist of it and just how easy it is to do: To the OP - yes, that part will be fine.

If you're so determined to throw your money away then you could at least throw some my way. This job can be one, or perhaps more, of three things: The actual sensor itself The control rods/ball joints The metal plate that the sensor bolts onto. That's ridiculously WAY overpriced. You've seen how much the sensor itself costs on eBay (around 30 quid) here. You can also buy the control arms (just one example of many here at 20 quid) or you could even buy the full assembly for less than £100. Job done for £100 and an hour of your time. Even if you don't want to DIY just take it to a local garage (known and trusted by friends or family, colleagues etc) and they'll do the job for half the Lexus dealer price. There is absolutely nothing whatsoever about this job that is Lexus-specific and needs a Lexus dealer workshop to do it. This is bread and butter work for hundreds, even thousands, of good mechanics up and down the country.

Possible jump start points are in both front and rear. As I said above, 12V at the front is the same as 12V at the back. 12V is 12V whether at front or back and electrically it makes absolutely no difference whatsoever which you use. The only reason for the advice to use the front is that batteries can generate hydrogen gas and if a spark is caused whilst placing or removing jump leads, it could ignite the gas and cause an explosion, but the front jump point is far enough away from the battery so as to negate that risk. Having said that, the risk seems to be more theoretical than reality. In almost 50 years of driving and hobby spannering I've never seen it happen and neither have any friends, family or work colleagues.

That's fine, no problem. 12V at the front is the same as 12V at the back, 12V is 12V no matter where it is.

I'll send one to Preston as well, can't do any harm.

Two ways to do this: 1. The battery numbers indicate the size, so a 2016 is 20mm diameter x 1.6mm high; a 2032 is 20mm diameter x 3.2mm high. It may work if you can get a battery of the correct diameter but higher than what you need. For example, if the fob takes a 2016, try a 2032 and it may hold it better. 2. Get a whole new key cut from this guy on eBay and transfer your own electronics into it.

DOH!!! Ah well, today can only get better - cheers Peter

Are you talking about hybrid or not?

Same here. My back injury is the worst (pain never goes away, been told only thing left is to remove the discs but 50/50 chance of ending up in a wheelchair, so no thank you) but over the years I've broken both ankles....fractured my right calcaneus....both knees are shot and will both need replacing in the not to distant future....had a subacromial decompression of my right shoulder and a full rotator cuff repair of my left. Having now reached 65, all these injuries are becoming arthritic and like someone said above, spending time washing/polishing and generally keeping her clean and shiny, just doesn't hold the enjoyment and pleasure it once did, hence why I spend £10/fortnight (maybe every week during winter months) to have someone elsedo it. OK, they don't put the same care and attention in like I did but at least it doesn't take me three days to recover from every wash

It was indeed...and I mean it too

Beautiful car Steve, congratulations mate. Enjoy her to the full

The POTS (Plain Old Telephone System) run by the GPO/Post Office Telecommunications/British Telecom/BT/Openreach for many decades has always been run by sending out -48V from the exchange batteries. Mind you, now that the old POTS is being retired from service, the copper cables are being recovered, and the whole system moves over from circuit switching to packet switching on fibre,most of the exchange buildings (and their battery rooms) are being sold off and no more -48V.

+1 for this ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

My RX has a joystick which, given that I'm right-handed, is bloody awful to use. However, I got one of these to use with the Vline and it works brilliantly. There's no denying that the Grom Vline is both expensive and also very frustrating and it'll have you pulling your hair out, but perseverence does pay off. You could look at a Lexion system as I've heard good things about them, but they seem to be more expensive still. Bottom line - expensive as these things are, it's worth paying it. We shouldn't have to do it and it's a shame that a luxury brand such as Lexus makes it necessary to invest in these third-party solutions, but such a difference over the OEM system makes it worthwhile in the end.

No one uses it because it's rubbish. Me: Call Caz home Lexus: Dialling 590.... Me: Dial Caz home Lexus: Dialling bank...0999 999665 Me: Aarrgghh!!!! Me: Navigate to M33 4HX Lexus: Sorry, I don't understand Me: Navigate to M33 4HX Lexus: Navigating to NB7 3SY Me: Ah *****, I give up!!!!! I got a Grom Vline2 and use Android Auto with Waze for navigation now.... Me: Open Waze <Waze opens immediately and effortlessly> Me: Navigate to M33 4HX Waze: OK, M33 4HX, let's go...and off we go, just as simple as that! Me: Dial Caz home Android Auto: Dialling Caz home Me: Open Planet Rock (this is a classic rock radio station available via DAB or the Planet Rock app - AA uses the app) Android Auto: Opening Planet Rock. The Grom Vline2 isn't cheap but it makes the Lexus infotainment/navigation into what it should have been in the first place but failed miserably.

It's not something to be taken lightly because it's not driven from the engine by a belt, but instead is driven by a 500V 3-phase AC motor which is part of the compressor so you can't replace either part individually. Before throwing any money at it get the OBD codes read and see if it flags anything up. If it does, then that's our starting point for further diagnostics.

Yes, it'll tell you how to do it in your owner's manual. If you haven't got one you can download one from https://www.lexus.co.uk/owners/about-my-lexus/manuals

Show this to the car and tell it to buck up its ideas or it's out:

Yes, of course, and I certainly hope he does.