Herbie

I don't know of any player, whether in a car or even a home HiFi system, where the 'random' works truly randomly. I agree with you - if I have 2000 songs on my list then none of them should be repeated until all 2000 have been played once, but it just doesn't work that way, whether in the car or the home. I've even had the same song come up FOUR times in a 10 mile journey, but sadly, that's just how it works. The only way I found to sort of 'cheat' the system was with CDs. I would record MP3 files randomly onto the discs, then put the discs into the 6-slot changer in a random order and then tell the player to play randomly - and even then it wasn't foolproof!

It's this silly thing - it's no wonder that the original light is so feeble with this in place:

What do you mean, a bit far? You sometimes have to be prepared to travel for the right one - furthest I've been was about 300 miles if I remember correctly Just think how much you'll enjoy the drive back in your new toy

Yep, definitely iPhone/Pod or some other phone like a Fujitsu or Siemens.

Connector for an iPhone? Can you take the cover off and take a photo of the connector inside?

I don't know where the alarm siren is located but believe me, it won't make a difference to the battery because it doesn't take that much. Plus, you could get into all sorts of problems with choosing to deactivate the alarm if you then try to make a claim for a stolen car. Much better to either trickle charge it, or go for a regular run out in it, or just fire it up on the driveway for about 60 minutes per week as per the advice on Toyota's website for keeping the battery topped up while we were in lockdown.

Then the best way to find out is to get on and open it, pull one out and then do a Google image search for automotive blade fuses to compare it to.

Very poor but also very unusual - as you say, they're usually well on the ball. Sorry it didn't work out for you Dan.

Is there not a physical key that you can use to manually unlock the car, like this: If so, just unlock the door or tailgate, jump start it and away you go. If not, we'll have to see what other CT owners have done in the past. EDIT: This is from the 2015 CT200h Owners Manual:

Well, we traded the RX300 in about two and a half years ago and I put these LEDs in about 18 months before that, so I can't remember exactly which variant is needed - but both links you've provided go to the same variant anyway? In fact, I'm so sure that they're the correct ones that if the don't fit, I'll refund you the cost of them EDIT: I think I see what you mean now - the ones I got have 6 LED chips each side with 3 on the top, whereas the ones pictured in the advert have 18 each side and 9 on the top. I'm afraid I don't know what the difference (if any) will be. All I can say is that they will physically fit and the link is the one I used years ago - maybe the trader just changed the item behind the link if that makes sense?

These are the ones that I bought and they work a treat, but you do need to remove the silly shrouds in the light fitting for best results.

As Sorcerer said above - measure the voltage at the working one and check to see if that same voltage is at the non-working one. If it is then you know it's the LEDs themselves that are faulty. If there's no voltage there then you have a problem in the wiring that you need to start tracing back.

Cheers Mark, and just to prove my point to the OP, this is taken from a post in our 'sister' Lexus Owners Group on Facebook - the last post says it all:

When you say you "turned off" the LPG system did you pull the fuse to do that, because that's the only way to really turn it off. Having said that, given so many things wrong at one time I can almost guarantee it won't have anything to do with the LPG system - this is just screaming electrical to me. First thing to check is the battery. Even though it's not a hybrid it still has lots of complicated electronics that are very sensitive to battery voltage being just right and can throw all sorts of wobblies if it isn't. First thing I'd do is to charge the battery overnight to make sure that you have a good starting point for any tests. Make sure that the battery posts and clamps are clean and good tight connections, and the same for the 'other ends' of the battery cables too, along with the engine/tranny to chassis earth straps. The chart below shows 'standing voltage' with the car off. Next, fire up the engine and make sure that the alternator is doing its job - voltage should be about 14.5V. Once you're sure that you've got a good electrical baseline, if that hsn't cured the problem start looking for any signs of dampness, water ingress and/or corrosion around or on ECU connectors. However, in all honesty and with so many things affected, I would be inclined to take it straight to a proper auto electrician. They have the proper knowledge, skill and test gear to sort something like this in a fraction of the time it would take you or me. I see you're in Lancashire so if, like me, you're in Preston, I can highly recommend Ribblesdale Auto Electrics on Marsh Lane https://ribblesdaleauto.co.uk/about-us/ Their website is rubbish and I have no idea what they're doing with it, but their auto electrical work is first class. Good luck and please keep us informed of the outcome. I hate it when we're left in limbo wondering what went on

I appreciate that but when he was specifically asking the location of a fuel cut-off switch I was immediately reminded of being behind buses where there's often a notice 'Fuel cut-off switch under flap' or something like that. In other words, a manually-operated cut-off rather than a safety device that operates automatically. I was behind a bus at traffic lights this afternoon which is probably what prompted my thoughts, although I now think it more likely that I've got the wrong end of the stick.

You'll probably find that it's cheaper to get a stainless custom system than a standard. I'm not sure if the usual suspects can get them, which means that it would be a main dealer part if that's correct, and in which case stainless will definitely be cheaper.

I have no idea but I wouldn't think it's a normal thing. What makes you even ask?

It's an 11-year old car so why would you take it to the Lexus dealers anyway and pay their extortionate prices? Go to either a proper auto electrician or a proper car audio place and get them to have a look. If something needs replacing buy it from an eBay breakers yard or one local to you if you have one.

Hope the belt doesn't let go before you get round to changing it.

Cheers William. I have to confess that the money angle is just a guess on my part and you may well be correct. I'm not 100% sure but logic would say that yes, it's safe to jump start a hybrid from a hybrid because the recipient car will only need 20A or so to achieve READY mode. The donor car battery should be more than capable of providing this on its own without having to rely on extra power from its DC/DC converter.

Haha, why use one paragraph when seven is better Seriously though John, no, I would never risk it. Some people have tried it and got away with it and I suppose every case could be different depending on how flat the recipient battery is. It really could be a very expensive risk though, so I would definitely not take it.

Not to say that Steve is wrong, but he's not quite correct 🙂 The 12V battery in a hybrid is of a low capacity but even so, it's quite capable of jump starting a conventional car on its own. A conventional car's starter motor can draw more than 300A when cranking the engine, whereas my RX450h takes less than 20A to achieve READY mode, which is our equivalent of the engine running. Toy/Lex thought that it was an opportunity to save a bit of money - why put a big, beefy battery in there if all we need is less than 20A? Decent reasoning I suppose, but the downside is that it goes flat quicker. Even being of a low capacity it's still more than capable of supplying the 300A or more for a conventional starter motor - the problem comes when it can't supply enough. The 12V battery of a conventional car is used only for cranking the engine. Once the engine fires and the alternator is producing electricity, the alternator takes over the duty of supplying the electrical needs of the car. If the flat battery wants to draw, say, 400A but the donor car battery can't supply that much, the alternator will 'top it up' to provide the extra current, which is all fine and dandy because alternators can output hundreds of Amps - but our hybrids don't have alternators! The 12V battery in our hybrids is charged up by a DC/DC converter. This is a box of electronic wizardry that takes the approx. 300V from the hybrid (traction) battery and drops it to about 14.5V. This DC/DC converter isn't capable of providing hundreds of Amps; it was never designed to do that. So, if the 12V battery in the hybrid car isn't up to scratch and can't provide enough power to the flat battery, it will try to draw the extra power from the DC/DC converter. Hopefully, some current-limiting circuitry will prevent that from happening but if it doesn't then there's likely to be a big bang and an escape of the magic smoke that makes the converter work, followed by lots of tears and an empty wallet

Just PM'd you with some info that may help James.

I deal with A-Plan brokers https://www.aplan.co.uk/ I can't remember who my actual policy is with but A-Plan will search about 50 insurance companies and come up with the best one for your particular needs. They're very efficient, friendly and courteous. Highly recommended.