Herbie

You're welcome James, glad I could help.

Just to play Devil's Advocate: Yes, bottom right-hand corner of the screen is probably the best place but that would leave sucker marks, indicating that there's probably a nice, expensive device in there to nick. Oh look where Lexus have mounted their satnav/infotainment screen - centre dash. Unless you have eyes like Marty Feldman then even if you don't move your head, you'll still need to move your eyes from looking out of the windscreen to look at the nav screen. A good driver should have within his skillbase an understanding of when it's safe to take his eyes off the road ahead to glance at the nav screen, no matter where it's placed. Watch any programme like Police Interceptors or Road Wars and see how often those guys take their eyes off the screen to press buttons or adjust something. If it really was such a problem then the driver should not have access to any switches, buttons, clocks or whatever, but just keep looking ahead out of the windscreen.

There's no way to do it without a trailing wire. I could have installed the USB socket anywhere except that there isn't any suitable place except the centre console. You may be able to feed the phone wire up the console somehow to poke it out nearer the phone but I doubt it. Just grin and bear it.

But he does say: So, we can take from that that the router to 'outside world' Internet speed is good and not a problem. The problem lies with the two Windows machines on the internal wireless network.

If it's a 2019 car it'll still be under manufacturers warranty won't it? I wouldn't go ferreting around in the wiring or you may invalidate the warranty - just take it back to the dealer and get them to sort it.

All of the above plus one important point - both machines are likely to need updates and it's probably giving bandwidth preference to downloading these, thereby making other internet activity slow and laborious. Windows 10 is set to only do the updates 'out of hours' so that it doesn't interrupt the use of the machine, but it will download the updates at any time. Also, don't forget that wifi will always be slower than ethernet due to the overheads it incurs. It's certainly not unusual for a wired connection to download at 60mbps for instance, while the same machine on wifi can be 30mbps or less. The brand new machine should obviously be set up with the correct drivers already, but the secondhand machine not necessarily so, so it may be worth installing new drivers. Apart from the manufacturer's own websites, the only other drivers site I trust is https://www.snappy-driver-installer.org/ The Snappy Driver Installer is completely free to download and use and will give you a choice of just downloading the drivers necessary for the machine you're running it on, or you can download the whole database of nearly 40GBs-worth of drivers, which is great for computer techs like me who build and repair all manner of machines. If I reformat a drive or install a new one, I simply have to plug in the USB flash drive with the database on it and the installer does the rest, no matter which make and model of computer I'm working on. One other thing that sometimes works is to turn all devices off but don't turn the router off with the switch, pull the power plug instead and leave it out for a couple of minutes. This is to ensure any residual current held in capacitors drains away so that a fault condition or corrupted setting can't be held. Power the router back up first and let it connect and stabilise; then, and only then, power up the other devices one by one, allowing each to come up to a stable working condition before powering on the next one.

I use one of these from http://cdslotmount.com/ and it works perfectly. It doesn't interfere with playing CDs if that's your thing, it doesn't scratch or mark in any way whatsoever, and it just does what it says on the tin. I don't like having to plug a USB adapter into the cig/power socket so I've also installed a dedicated USB socket to plug my phone into.

You may be able to replace an individual LED if you can open the housing and if you're good with a soldering iron but I think it's most likely to need the whole thing replacing.

If you make sure to do as John says above but it doesn't make any improvement then it would seem that you have a parasitic drain fault. If you've got the equipment and the skill to do it yourself, this video should help you, but there are plenty of other videos on YouTube. If you can't, or just don't want to do it yourself then I strongly suggest that you take it to a proper auto electrician for diagnosis. I'm a very firm believer in mechanics for mechanical issues, electricians for electrical issues.

I'm not saying that you don't need to inform the insurance of the modification, of course you do. What I'm saying, in answer to Barry's post above, is that the insurance people should (in theory at least) have no justification for increasing premiums. The main aspects of modification that insurers are interested in are safety and desirability. For instance, fitting a set of alloy wheels at, say, £1500 would make the car (or at least the wheels) more desirable to scrotes nicking it/them than a set of steel wheels at £150, so they'll put up premiums to take account of the increased risk. Changing from air to sprung suspension makes no difference to desirability or (as far as I'm aware) safety, so although the insurance people must be informed of the modification, there should be no reason for them to increase premiums.

For over 15 years, until I got this hybrid, I'd been driving LPG-powered cars. The LPG tank always lived in the spare wheel well, so no room to carry a spare wheel anymore. I always carried a can of Holts Tyreweld to deal with small punctures and I was always covered by Green Flag/AA/RAC/whatever to deal with a bigger puncture or blowout. I had no qualms about having no spare tyre and every year we would do our big European driving holidays (Preston, Lancashire to Poland, Czech, Hungary and so on) with just the can of Tyre Weld in the boot. Over the 15 years I needed to use it just once and it was no big deal and it worked very well, getting us to a tyre place where the puncture was repaired without any problems. So I'd say three things: Don't spend over the odds for 'special Lexus sealant' - there's nothing special about it except the price! You may hear horror stories of having to buy a new tyre because the goo makes it unusable and unrepairable - absolute rubbish. That's just a story propogated by lazy tyre fitters who don't want to get their hands dirty and waste time on having to clean the goo away. My personal experience was in the days before tyre pressure monitoring systems so maybe I'd be a bit more reticent to use goo now. However, looking at it logically, the goo won't be able to get inside the sensor so as long as it's properly cleaned (as it should be) before putting the tyre back on I really don't see it being a problem at all.

According to others who have done it and reported back, it makes no difference, and nor should it in my view. It makes the car no more or less safe, and it makes the car no more or less desirable/nickable, so no real justification for a change of premiums.

Oh I'm very particular about my wine John. I had a very bad experience with red one time so all reds are out, I cannot even stand the smell anymore. The only wines I drink are very sweet whites. Some supermarkets categorise them as a No.1 being the driest and a No.9 being the sweetest - and on that scale I don't do anything below a No.7. Some of the best wines I've ever had have been the German Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslese and my favourite, the Eiswein. I shall indeed raise a glass or two to the wonderful folks in this club and hope that we all come through these uncertain times safe and sound

I do indeed John - sorry David

John is indeed correct in saying that. The technocal name for the black band and the dots is the 'Frit band' and they're actually baked into the glass during manufacture so it's impossible for them to come off unless it's a manufacturing defect. Have a look here https://www.petebarden.co.uk/news/articles/windscreen-black-dots.html

I think that may answer the question, ie, you don't.

There's also another topic regarding this:

I doubt it's anything to do with wifi. Car key fobs work in the 433MHz band whereas wifi is 2.4GHz or 5.0GHz. Most likely source of interference is baby monitors, wireless doorbells, garage and/or gate openers etc., etc.

Just looks very silly.

Haha, what can I say John - not enough sleep and too much stuff going on 😄

My service plan says that the 'Plan Period' is 24 months and it gives us three services - 50, 60 and 70k or 5, 6 and 7 years. We took the plan out in February 2018 while still in the showroom when we bought the car, but the previous owners had always had it serviced in October, so our first service under the plan was in October 2018 and I've just booked it in for the last service under the plan for 5th October. When is it best to apply for another plan to start - after it's had the service on 5th October, or anytime now but get it to start in October? EDIT: To be honest I don't actually know even why I'm asking - the service is booked for just under four weeks time so I don't suppose it'll matter with such a small timescale.

Our car already had a Lexus bootliner in when we bought it and it's excellent. One very good thing about it is that it has a lip of about 1-inch high all around the edges, so if any liquid is spilt it's kept on the liner and doesn't mess the carpet up.

Probably a typo because the figures are correct on the Lexus website so as you say, the next 3 should be £1,295. I don't know whereabouts in Oxfordshire you're located but it may be worthwhile becoming a 'Gold Member' of the club. It's £39.95/year and participating dealers can offer decent discounts on things like this. The only problem is that you can't see which dealers offer the discount until you pay for the Gold Membership, so if you tell us which dealer you're using, maybe someone can let you know. I'm a couple of hundred miles north so I can't help with that, but as you'll see below, my dealer gives these offers:

That's the point - I don't think that any of them can avoid this. If you think about it logically, we are getting what we want, ie, for the player to play tracks randomly. What we also need is for the player to have a memory of what it's already played and to have some algorithm to tell it not to play these again until all tracks have been played once. The problem is that, in any truly random system, the chances of some songs being played more than once is no better or worse than the chances of any other track being played.

Yep, me too.