Herbie

If it's just 'a key' with no buttons and you need a separate fob for the central locking, are you saying that there are no electronics in it at all and it really is just 'a key'? If so, £35 is a bit of a rip off This guy here on eBay includes the LS in his list of available keys and he also gives his phone number so if you have any doubts or queries you can talk it over with him first.

Hang on, I'm confused now. I thought the immobiliser side of the equation was sorted and you were just having problems with the remote central locking - is that not the case? All the open/close doors and insert/extract keys and tummy/head rubbing is ONLY for the remote central locking. The immobiliser is done by Techstream, as the first part of the video on your other topic shows.

It can't be done by Techstream, which is why the workshop manual has the same steps as I printed out above and why the video above only becomes relevant to your predicament at 3min 40sec, where he ignores the computer and starts the 'magic shuffle'. They can, however, do it by use of the 'Intelligent Tester' that they have, which does make the job a lot easier.

1. Just to improve the brightness 2. Yes, I think there is a limit but these LEDs are well within said limit.

If you've not had the car long get it back to the dealer you bought it from and get them to put it right under warranty because it could turn out to be a very expensive problem.

Mine's an Advance with a sunroof so they are out there. Mind you, I never open it, much prefer climate control instead.

Did you try moving the car 20ft away or maybe around the block somewhere in case of local interference? Things like baby monitors, garage and/or gate openers and the like can create havoc with the key fobs.

You have to remove the light cluster itself to get access to the shrouds/shades.

I'm sure this sequence has already appeared above but, for the avoidance of all doubt, the following screenshots have been taken directly from the RX400h workshop manual and so they should be the definitive guide. If this doesn't work then it's either (most likely) a timing issue or there's something wrong somewhere. Just a thought - we know that local interference can play havoc with the operation of the key fobs so it may be worth giving it a try in a different street.

I haven't got a CTEK charger so I don't know the cross-sectional area of the output cable and therefore can't calculate the voltage drop for a 5m run as opposed to a 2.5m run. There will be a known volt drop per Amp per Metre for the size of cable so yes, it is possible that by doubling the length of the cable then the permissible voltage drop will be exceeded. If someone who has one of these chargers can get the cross-sectional area of the output conductors then the voltage drop should be obtainable by using the voltage drop calculator here: https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/cable-sizing-selection.html

Fabric seats play havoc with me and always 'charge me up' as I get out of the car, which is one reason why I always go for leather seats. However, in the context of your question, no, you don't need an unpainted surface. As I get out of the car and just touch the door to shut it, I always yet out a yelp as the darn static zaps me, so any charge has dissipated well before I reach the fuel flap. So, in my experience, touching any metal surface, painted or unpainted, will discharge the static just fine.

Not really, not to any practical degree. There'll be no power steering and the 12V battery will go flat, not to mention that as you say, the computers wouldn't allow it anyway.

Yes, I agree John. He should be able to do it.

I haven't looked at the actual Ts & Cs but I was under the impression that you could successfully apply for a two-year warranty at, say, 9 years, 11 months and 25 days because it was then still under 10 years old, but even just one day over that 10 year mark it becomes ineligible. However, John seems to have come up trumps with clause (f) above.

You said it was a classified ad so at least tell us what the asking price in the public ad was That looks like a PL259 coax plug so my bet is that the guy was either a radio ham or a CB enthusiast and that was to connect to a mobile transciever.

That's correct John. The hybrid system uses MG1 to spin up the ICE to 1000rpm before applying fuel and a spark to fire it.

Hybrids don't have starter motors or alternators and any item that would normally be driven by a belt from the ICE is electrically operated. It has to be this way because the petrol engine doesn't run all the time, so imagine, for instance, needing to turn a corner or steer round a bend with no power steering because the engine isn't running. The 12V battery boots the computers and does one or two other things and gets the car to the READY state, ie, the hybrid system is now up and running. As already stated, there is no alternator so instead the 12V battery is charged by means of a DC/DC converter, which takes the 288V to 300V of the traction battery and steps it down to about 14.5V. Similarly, the power steering runs via another box of electronics which converts the hybrid battery voltage to about 48V this time if I remember correctly. And the aircon compressor is run by a 500V three phase motor, again powered by the traction battery. So to answer your question, no, it won't run as a petrol-only car; it needs three things to run - 12V battery, ICE and Traction battery.

That does indeed look to be the dog's whatsits, well done!

And I'm with Mark on this. The two functions of the key are entirely separate - one for immobiliser and one for central locking. If the car started then the immobiliser was obviously being deactivated which means that part of the equation is working alright. The central locking is the part that isn't working and as Mark says, as long as the frequency is correct then Robert should be your mother's brother.

As Mark says above, we need more information. One thing I will say is that it takes about 10 days to stabilise the connection so if it's less than that, don't worry yet. Think of the router/hub as the bouncer on a pub door - it separates the outside from the inside and acts as a gateway. You can connect any device in the house to the internal wired/wireless network even if the phone line is broken, cut, or just plain not plugged into the router and all devices will work and be able to talk to each other as normal. For instance, if you have a wireless printer then any laptop, tablet or phone will be able to connect to the printer and print documents, photos and so on, even if the phone line is unplugged from the router. So, first thing is to determine if it's the internal wifi network at fault and dropping out, or if it's the 'outside world' or Internet that's dropping out.

Stick at it, it will work. I tried about a dozen times before it worked but it did in the end. Or are you saying that it's failing at a certain point in the sequence? Usually it's just a matter of getting timings right.

Cheers David, it's just nice to help when possible

If you search for a post by Sorcerer, he goes through the process of doing this. I'll post it if I can find it. EDIT - here you go:

There's a little push switch in or by the side of the glove box to isolate it. You've probably hit it by mistake so just give it a push and try again. Open the glove box and it'll be on the right-hand side.

That, plus the wifi issues, would point me initially to the drivers. Windows 10 was designed to be 'intelligent' and sort of just 'work straight out of the box' so that anyone could be up and running quickly, even without much knowledge. An ideal example of this is a printer. Just plug it in and Windows 10 'recognises' it and installs it. The problem is that it doesn't always get it right, or get the best driver for the job. Go to the link I provided above and use SDIO to install drivers and I'll almost guarantee it'll be better.