Herbie

You don't have to tell us if you don't want to Noddy but I'm sure I can't be the only one sat at home wondering why the restaurant POI has offended you so much that you need to remove it - can you not just ignore it?

Being as it wasn't my car I don't know, but it may have been something to do with either the LED sealed units being special items (you can't replace individual LEDs) or more likely, it was covered on MOT status as an MOT protected part.

Take it straight back to the trader you bought it from and get them to sort it at their expense.

As Piers says, test drive both and see if that helps to make up your mind. My own personal opinion is that the CT is far too small and feels like a toy compared to my RX. They gave us a CT while our RX was being serviced and I thought it was awful, but then I suppose I was going from the largest car they make to the smallest so I would see a big difference wouldn't I?

I've always found this stuff to be much better than WD40: https://htsupplies.co.uk/products/innotec-deblock-ice-aerosol

I used to call it 'The Lexus Paradox' - people are drawn to the brand, at least in part, due to the reputation for reliability and then worry about whether it will be reliable. However, I look at it as an insurance policy. We all have car and house insurance but yet we hope to never have to use it, so a Lexus Extended Warranty is no different. Trouble is, if any spares are needed they are so eye-wateringly expensive that a warranty can recoup its cost in just one or two events. For example, someone on here had condensation inside both headlamp units if I remember correctly. Being LED they are sealed units so both were replaced under warranty and they cost over £800 each side.

Because it says "P/Outlet No.1" - it really is that simple. I guess you didn't get yourself a multimeter eh? If you don't want to buy one, use a 12V bulb in a lampholder with two wires. Put one wire to a nearby earth (screw/nut/bare metal) and use the other wire to touch the little open test points on top of the fuse, both with and without the ignition on. If you're not convinced about P/Outlet No.1 you could use the S/HTR F/L which is the Seat Heater Front Left (or F/R, Front Right). I wouldn't think they would have power on with ignition off.

It is indeed, but It's a very good price You may be able to get a discount of around 10% if you become a Gold Member of this club for £39.99/year if your dealer participates in the scheme If you change your car to another Lexus the warranty is transferrable If you just sell the Lexus and either don't get another one or you buy some other brand, you get a refund for the unused portion of the warranty for a small admin charge It's a very good warranty

Where's your sense of adventure man?? Seriously though, all fuse covers have printed on them what each fuse is for so just pull the cig lighter/power socket fuse or interior lights or something that is obviously not important.

Why not just pull one out and have a look?

Yes, sorry, my fault for not being thorough. I was assuming that I didn't need to state that extra load will slow the engine so the ECU raises the revs to compensate, so I skipped a step

Don't forget that an MOT is only an inspection of if your car is safe enough to be on the road at that given moment in time and not an inspection of all things that may be or go wrong. I thought that almost all cars had 'brake wear indicators' these days? Some have a wire that, when the brakes wear to a certain limit, it illuminates a warning light on the dash, and others just have a piece of metal that contacts the disk and makes an awful screeching sound. Either system will have the wear indicators set to give a safety margin so if your car does have these indicators then technically I suppose Lexus are correct and they were within spec when you bought the car. I admit that it's not the behaviour you would expect from a major luxury brand and I do hope that you get it all sorted in your favour, but...

Has it done this all the time you've owned the car or just started? Could be a sign of the compressor on its way out if it's a new symptom.

It's not the actual size of the battery as such, although as you say a bigger one could probably take more, but rather the rate of charge. Squirt too much power in at one go and any battery will be damaged, so the charging rate is limited.

There can't be a 'fix' for something that's not faulty. AC coming on means more load on the engine, ergo a rise in rpm. No one can defeat the laws of physics.

Hopefully, as it's all electronically controlled there should be some form of circuitry or interlock that prevents you from doing it, but from your experience maybe not. The parking pawl is a bit of metal that meshes with a gear and prevents it from rotating, thereby stopping the car from moving. People who like to say that they don't use the parking brake for fear of it seizing on are playing a dangerous game, because the whole weight of the car is then on the parking pawl and if it breaks that means that there'll be a piece of metal floating around in the transmission; not a good thing and could be a very expensive mistake.

If you really jam your foot down to the floor then yes, you'll get a bit but otherwise no. The Goodyears really are a superb tyre and it's a shame that they often get overlooked in favour of the Michelin CCs.

Have a look here

Given that the petrol engine doesn't run all the time and you can't even rev it up, is it not a waste of money?

Reverse polarity?

Hi Anoop and welcome to the club

I think it's only available in the USA and Canada, not here, but I'll happily stand corrected if I'm wrong.

That sounds a bit suspect to me. Does it indicate which battery, the 12V or the high voltage traction battery? I'm only guessing but it sounds to me like the traction battery has been flat, which is possibly 'not a good thing'. As Steve says above, you need to see that the hybrid (traction) battery has had a health check and passed it.

I've never used one but I would imagine that their primary purpose is to heat the nut, which makes it expand compared to the bolt, and so makes it easier to turn. In your example, if it worked at all, it would expand the bolt which would make it even tighter in the steel liner - you would need to expand the liner and/or shrink the bolt I think?

For anyone who is on Facebook this is Xane's post over there. Apparently he's done all that @ColinBarber and still no joy. I remembered something about running out of petrol and continuing to run on traction battery alone can cause a lockout that only a dealer can reset, but because he's getting the READY light on I don't think it can be that.