Herbie

In my defence I did say that that was an absolute last resort Things to try before getting to that point would have been to squirt a small quantity of release oil such as WD40 on the screw head, let it soak in and then try a rubber band / piece of duct tape / piece of PTFE tape or even a small ball of wire wool between the screw head and the screwdriver bit. If that didn't work, then it would be time to break out the big guns and use a left-handed drill bit and/or a screw extractor. Perhaps even drill out the old screw and tap a new thread. There's numerous ways of doing it but suppose it all depends on having the tools (which I have) and if you like to tinker (or don't like to be beaten). You could always take the opportunity to justify buying the toys I mean tools, so that you have them for future use

Absolutely agree Steve. I think I've posted this previously but for anyone who's interested, a great website to see the current situation of the National Grid and the proportion of fuels being used to generate the electricity is http://www.gridwatch.templar.co.uk/ Here's a screengrab from a few minutes ago which doesn't look too frightening, but as we get deeper into winter and more demand, some people will be shocked (hehe, see what I did there ) to see just how close we come to 'lights out':

Great news that it's fixed Steve, brilliant job. It's not clear from the photo just where these connections are and I think we'd need a wider field of vision for proper context, but in general I'd say no, don't go ferreting around there unless you've got the right equipment and knowledge. I've got a pair of rubber gauntlets rated to 1000V but not many folks will have them as part of their toolkit.

Barry, I've just sent you a PM which may be helpful to you.

There are a couple of photos at the bottom of the thread below that show the location of the drains on the underside of the car, so check these because they may be full of crud: There's also some good photos and info in this thread from the USA forum that you may find useful if you haven't already seen it: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-2nd-gen-2004-2009/648923-sunroof-moonroof-leak.html

But is it really John? No offence Norman, but you could have done exactly what Lexus did without the effort and expense of getting there. I'll be honest, the words 'mountain' and 'molehill' did pop into my head when you were talking of going to Lexus for them to deal with one tiny little screw but as it turns out they didn't deal with it at all. It's a very easy job to DIY (if you were closer I'd do it for you myself) but even if you don't want to DIY then any place that replaces watch batteries or does mobile phone repairs would be happy to do the job for you.

Welcome to the quirky world of the useless Lexus navigation Seriously though, the infotainment and nav systems have always been the Achilles' Heel of Lexus. My November 2013 nav is all but useless and I really don't think they've improved much since then; certainly better and easier to use my phone or a standalone TomTom.

What does that actually mean? Do you mean that the first 6" of pipe from the sunroof? If so, that means nothing - you need to check that when you pour water in at the sunroof, it pours out of the drains under the car. Most people seem to have had success using plastic strimmer wire to push down the pipes. If you've only got moisture in the boot area but wetness in the driver's footwell, check the rear screenwash pipe hasn't come adrift because that comes through the bulkhead on the driver's side, up the screen pillar and then along the headlining and I think there's a joint at the top of the pillar.

Lots of talk about it in the Lexus Owners Club Group on Facebook.

EVs are not half as 'green' or planet-saving as we are led to believe.

B&Q, Homebase, Wickes, eBay, Amazon, local hardware shop, junk box out in the garage or shed, etc., etc., or even a local fixings and fasteners place like this one near me: There's nothing special or Lexus-specific about them. If you intend to buy locally just take one with you to compare. As for getting the last screw out, if the head is really knackered just drill it out using a Dremel or similar. As a last resort, if you can at least get rid of the head, even if you have to leave the shaft of the screw in place, the other three screws will be enough to hold the cover on.

You don't want it to be too accurate. A sneeze or cough and an accidental pressing of the loud pedal at the wrong moment may just get you caught by those ever-watchful cameras.

Hi Karen and welcome to the club. Your first 'how to' guide is how to post in the correct forum because this is the GS forum not the RX 😊 Sorry, I just couldn't resist but only joshing with you - I'm sure the mods will move it over once they become aware of it. What sort of thing would you like to know? Most of the guides really refer to doing jobs on the cars but I'm sure someone will be able to help if you have something specific in mind. Hang on in there and enjoy having a look round.

Another interesting theory is that of the 'Dark Sucker'. For years, it has been believed that electric bulbs emit light, but recent information has proven otherwise. Electric bulbs don’t emit light; they suck dark. Thus, we call these bulbs Dark-Suckers. The Dark-Sucker Theory and the existence of dark-suckers prove that dark has mass and is heavier than light. First, the basis of the Dark-Sucker Theory is that electric bulbs suck dark. For example, take the Dark-Sucker in the room you are in. There is much less dark right next to it than there is elsewhere. The larger the Dark-Sucker, the greater its capacity to suck dark. Dark-Suckers in the parking lot have a much greater capacity to suck dark than the ones in this room. As it is with all things, Dark-Suckers don’t last forever. Once they are full of dark, they can no longer suck. This is proven by the dark spot on a full Dark-Sucker. A candle is a primitive Dark-Sucker. A new candle has a white wick. You can see that after the first use, the wick turns black, representing all the dark that has been sucked into it. If you put a pencil next to the wick of an operating candle, it will turn black. This is because it got in the way of the dark flowing into the candle. One of the disadvantages of these primitive Dark-Suckers is their limited range. There are also portable Dark-Suckers. In these, the bulbs can’t handle all the dark by themselves and must be aided by a Dark Storage Unit. When the Dark Storage Unit is full, it must be either emptied or replaced before the portable Dark-Sucker can operate again. Dark has mass. When dark goes into a Dark-Sucker, friction from the mass generates heat. Thus, it is not wise to touch an operating Dark-Sucker. Candles present a special problem as the mass must travel into a solid wick instead of through clear glass. This generates a great amount of heat and therefore it’s not wise to touch an operating candle-type Dark-Sucker. Also, dark is heavier than light. If you were to swim just below the surface of the lake, you would see a lot of light. If you were to slowly swim deeper and deeper, you would notice it getting darker and darker. When you get really deep, you would be in total darkness. This is because the heavier dark sinks to the bottom of the lake and the lighter light floats at the top. This is why it is called light. Finally, we must prove that dark is faster than light. If you were to stand in a lit room in front of a closed, dark closet, and slowly opened the closet door, you would see the light slowly enter the closet. But since dark is so fast, you would not be able to see the dark leave the closet. Next time you see what is called an electric bulb, remember that it is really a Dark-Sucker.

When I was an apprentice electrician I was always told that every electrical item contained a quantity of magic smoke that could disappear with a bang and that it was always costly to replace the magic smoke in anything

The extended warranty would be void on anything to do with the exhaust system but still valid for all other things it covers. For instance, work on the exhaust can't affect the brakes, so the brakes section of the warranty would still stand but the exhaust wouldn't.

Worms, Can, Opened

Wow! Imported from Australia? Would it not have been cheaper and easier to just buy one here? Having said that, every credit to you Bruce, it must have taken some doing, that. Sorry to be negative but using your phone is by far the best and easiest solution to navigation other than buying a standalone satnav such as a TomTom or Garmin etc. The car is 14 years old, plus the time in development, so the satnav tech is well outdated and clunky. Being DVD-based means that you can't add your own POIs and/or speedcam databases etc. I use my phone with either Waze or Google Maps and also What 3 Words and I use one of these CD-slot mount holders. It doesn't mark or scratch in any way and you can still play your CDs without any problem https://cdslotmount.com/

Google Lens will translate that, it really is great.

If they're LEDs remember that they're polarity-conscious, so try them the other way round if you haven't done that already. Also you may have a faulty bulb - being brand new isn't a guarantee that it's not faulty.

Sorry I can't help. All I can say is that it's unusual to find this problem on the 450h - it's usually the 400h that suffers from water ingress. What I would say is that, at about £138+VAT per hour for Lexus labour and with water ingress notoriously time-consuming to find, I'd be taking it elsewhere or even trying to find the leak myself - after drilling a small hole in the floor to let the water drain away first, that is. Good luck for a speedy resolution to the problem Mike.

There are only three locations - engine bay, and both drivers and passengers footwell. Look up behind the glovebox for what you want.

Great job Chris and thanks for posting. My only worry would be that, because you didn't remove the tyres, you may have missed any corrosion present on the inside edge where the tyre meets the wheel and forms the airtight seal. It's quite common for that to happen and create a 'slow puncture' where the air slowly leaks out from a corrosion bubble.

As far as I know, they don't change it because the tranny is "sealed for life" which, as we all know, is not really 'a good thing.' It's a bit of a difficult one really because if you have an extended warranty on the car but then proceed to change the fluid yourself because they don't, it would most likely invalidate the portion of the warranty that relates to the tranny - which is probably one of the most expensive items on the car and the reason why you have an extended warranty in the first place.

A POI file (as I understand it) isn't just a list of things that can be edited, but rather more of an 'app' or computer program that is compiled into a self-contained 'package' that can't be edited. I stand to be corrected if I'm wrong though.