Ben01

Find better specialist maybe, any decent AC workshop has database per model/year how much and what agent they shall use. If they have to ask customer or "there is no AC sticker under bonnet so I have no idea", they are not so good. The info from previous owner is important, if we talk about AC not used for years and with significant leak (like, air ingress into system for long time), back to my previous post. And AC dryer should be replaced before any vaccum test even, not before filling. All this is common knowledge for AC guys (even for DIY boy like me), find any.

OK, if absorbers are pre-loaded (means, laying on bench they self-expand fully and need to be compressed to mount), forget about my story, it was about "free-move" absorbers, like simple acctuators.

On this link https://drivers.lexus.com/lexusdrivers/resources/owners-manuals?type=om you could find most of original Owner's Manuals for lexuses, even from '90 for some models.

Yeah, Oponeo is pretty good at this business, they started in Poland like 20 years ago ("opona" means "tyre" in Polish). They jumped early into cold internet selling, when nobody believe yet you could sell "bulky" tyres by internet and deliver them on time and in good price. They are solid stock market company now and steady expand whole Europe.

Just curious, before I use my google-fu on the toilet, what you mean "low port of AC system"? Low pressure side, deep down under the bonnet, or anythign else?

I am not a specialist, but what I remember from some actions, common pratice, if AC is empty for longer time was 1) air pressure test - if anything is whistling immediately, don't bother with vacuum, but fix it 2) vacuum test - if vaccum could not stays OK for half an hour or so, don't bother with freon, but try again pressure tests with some bubling agents on joints etc. 3) if vaccum stays "long enoug" but looks like there is a leak, make the best vaccum, put like a half of normal amount of freon (couple hundreds gramms?) with proper oil and dye agent, and try to use AC and look for dye=leaks. Other way is waste of time and resources I think. And in fact intentional release of any freon, for test purposes too, is IMHO "in bad taste" and illegal now.

Probably rather I have no idea about IS suspension's details. If IS stays normal on the ground, could you simple unscrew top "stick" of absorber from inner part of top-mount? (not top-mount form the body!). Is there access? (maybe there is some cover over top-mount, but lets presume it was removed before). Is it "safe", as - absorber is not self-loaded, nothing drop or jump, and absorber could be "extended" back into top-mount more-less easily, and screw back into? Idea is if you "loose" absorber and could a bit test drive, you could eliminate absorber itself, and whole top mount and lower mount of absorber. If there is still same knockin, you have a half of the suspected elements to think about. Like [censored] spring end rubbing against [censored] top plate, it was the case I figured once in this kind of test (somebody advised me). BTW maybe this is your case guys, everybodys mine included presumption was "spring is heavy loaded, could not knock or rattle".

I used Goodyear 4seasons on a couple of cars in the past, and I was ok with them. They were good enough, as expected (in my mind there is no "good enough" tire for (wet) ice or deep melted snow, you need stud tyres or chains). I used a bit Falkens and Uniroyals all-weathers, as far as I remeber, they were mediocre vs. Goodyears, and some of them were noisy (I am mental on this issue more than on any "if grip is ok on left upper corner in medium rain in the high moon"). I thought about Nokian all-weathers for current GS, but price/lack of funds cancelled idea. I briefly have looked at Michelin Cross Climate as they are very close competition, and back to Nokians, as I had doubts if "summer tyre winter approved" (Michelin) is possible better than "all weather" (Nokian, or Goodyear, Vredestein, Klebers, etc), but after comment above I have a doubts. But still - I have no money for next set at the moment, so no problem 😉

Aye, but I have strongly disagreed the idea, in form of 2000 words essay.

John, you are right of course and it is easy to vacuum this grille, but on every movie and picture and advert for IS/GS fans I have seen last weeks they were sort of clean, a bit of dust or fluff maybe, like elder PC computer fan. On the other hand, LS filters, both versions (round thin "wool" in front of the fan like above, or boxy one like a very small cabin filter) were typicaly filthy as cabin filter after 50k miles.

My 2 pennies from nowhere (and sorry if it was discussed before, I did not read whole topic): did anybody try, in the middle of IS drum concerto, to simple disconnect (unscrew) shock absorber from top mount without lifting the car (and push "bolt" down, if it's possible) and drive a bit in same conditions (not the public road of course, as car could be jumpy)? From my experience with noisy ghosts in old suspensions (but not IS) this test could discriminate possible reasons for knocking.

No problemo. I am such a smartboi because I had a plan to steal your IS-style fans (much easier to find and cheaper than LS or GS) to feed my non ventilated (but perforated) GS's seats. But I feel now it is not worth the troubles and DIY, everybody complains these ventilated seats don't blow, rather suck 😉

Side note: I am sceptical about all this "dirty injectors" and cleaning theories. OK, I heard from people I trust one or two stories when they found slightly damaged or used injectors (spilling not spraying, etc.). But from my experience with about 20 hi mileage cars, so about 100 injectors 😉 and in "my circles" of fanatics of old 6 and 8 cylinders barges nobody got a real problem like this. Tons of old hesitated O2 probes, crazy throttle sensors, half broken MAFs and temperature sensors, ECUs on last electronic legs, etc. but injectors or dirty injectors? IMHO it is last thing to wore about; if your consumption and emission is more-less right, there is nothing to do here. IMHO there is more snake oil and/or placebo effect in all this info "I pour miracle agent in the tank to clean injectors and immediately gain add. 43HP and consumption dropped so low my car produces petrol now". Especially if miracle agent is common acetone, but in very small very expensive bottle.

Everything John said is very true - you could play as you wish for MOT but never ever try to tune up (or trust anybody who try to set up) LPG system before petrol feed works fine and petrol ECU is a little happy computer. It is pointless; old days it was dangerous for engine ("many many blown filters and manifolds and melted valves later he understood the Principle") and it is still a bit risky even with modern smarter LPG systems and better engines.

In theory you could buy interface, http://www.lpgshop.co.uk/ccy-usb-lpg-interface-no-11-brc/ next find some programme for BRC FLY, in mean time you could gain the knowledge and some skills, and next you could fix anything and everything. Like two years and couple of issues later. In practice, if you are not familiar with subject, you need a better LPG specialist to care about your LPG system.

As far as I know, only LSes got filters? The IS and GS have a simple grill in front of fan, similar like speaker grill, like on photo. You could see them under the seats (easier with mirror probably).

Whoa, whoa, what car in this band is more aggresive in your opinion at the moment? rounded porsches? elegant aston-martins? some jags (if any) or beemas (if any)?? Only mercs have similar agressivness in stylo in this zone IMHO, but much uglier and "overdesigned". Did I miss anything or does lamborghini have any huge discounts at the moment?

(sorry, it is too long, don't read, I could not stop) Oui, small car full of filler! It is remeber me my retarded youngest brother's first car, small old Starlet, decades ago. I was living in another part of country, so it does not bother me in the beginning, like somebody called me and drop "and G. bought the car, nice low cost starlet", OK, good choice for him and fiancee, city ride mostly, no children. But in days or weeks, when I visited parents (they and my brothers are living in same area), like Eastern or something, and I have seen the car in the flesh... Oh mama, oh my godness... The Starlet was dark gray with broad colorfull arrow stickers on sides, she was painted in many many grays, and with the roof in Navy version (you could see waves of filler from distance). My first question was "where did you find this P-o-S??" - "next village, some nice young boys" - "yeah, you are plain retarded to buy any car from local village boys, wanna-be rice-racers and skilled on rollovers and filler..." - "WHAT?" And next it was better and better, tiny Starlet had LPG system (1.0 engine!?), barely worked, and gasoline did not work at all. So in 5min I rolled up my sleeves and dug under the bonnet, pointed the broken fuel pump, broken air filter with "racing" bypass, etc. etc. to my sad brother (and his fiancee watched us, scared). And next he has fixed car a bit in couple of months. But the clou was a bit later - Starlet had lowered rear suspension, you know, 1.0 liter rice-racers from next village... I thought it was common trick with turning the torsion bar a bit and pointed this to my brother as "and think about this", as it was not critical in my mind. Next my father recognised the rear of Starlet is strange and jumpy and noisy, and pressed brother to fix the suspension. They visited some local independent toyota specialist, they put the car on lift, the guy jumped under and immediately back with known "mechanic whistle" a.k.a "mister, you have expensive problem here". And comments "Yeah, there is a suspension lowered a bit. But first thing first - it is not Toyota Starlet suspension... For me it looks like Lupo or similar, but I am not [censored] VW specialist". Shock and awe, as alien suspension was simple bolted to metal here and there. And my father paid for any Starlet suspension to put in, all parts and job cost like a half of "low cost" car. It was deliberately modified car, so maybe not exactly in the topic, my lovely brother was only "human error" here. But they used the car for couple of years next, cracking filler was not a big deal. BTW it was valuable lesson, not for him maybe, but for his fiancee (sooner-than-later wife) at last. One day G. suprised me with call "Erm, you know, we are expecting second child... - Congrats 🤨 and what can I do for you? - We think about bigger car... me and P. (middle brother, a bit more car-savvy, a very tiny bit) have some ideas... but E. (wife) order me to call you first..." - "Like for what, for approval?? 😮" - "Sort of, you are most experienced in used cars in whole family..." - "Mhm, or she still remebers those first days with Starlet... OK, tell me your ideas" - "The best one is an Opel Astra Bertone..." - (my voice condensed oxygen from air) "I like your definition of reliable family car... How much?" - "(price tag was ridiculous), only problem the car is 100 miles away, so E. order to call you before we'll ride to see this coupe" - (my voice condensed nitrogen leftovers) "My boy, it's not only problem here. Listen me carefully: you will walk to street X, two blocks from your flat. This is local Mekka of dealers and used cars. You will start from your end of this street. Before end of the street you have to find four door Japanese gasoline car, with shape, engine and gadgets to your taste AND HALF A PRICE OF THIS MORONIC BERTONE. If you fail, I would ask E. to turn your life in livin hell and I will help her with this" - "Eee..." - "Zip your mouth and march". It was a half joke, so I did not believe he called me in a few hours, they found in the street X mazda 626 liftback, with small engine (1.6?) and in mint condition, and half price of stupid coupe... And they were living happily ever after, like 10 or more years with oldschool bulletproof mazda.

There are "smarter" ways to do this than easy "disconnected" way. But if you had no codes and EML is blinking, lets presume everything was OK . Check the codes now, and check the air filter maybe, if not very wet or oily, etc, it's easiest possible check.

Suddenly I have to mop my keybord from saliva

This is I call "A Series of Unfortunate Events" 😮 (And where is the crack repair set I ordered, I have to fix two or three small dents in GS's windscreen before collapsing quantum wave of cracked glass will spreading into my area...)

Nice ride Ok, lets steal the topic, for me it would be Camaro 1995 for sure, relocation to Scotland kicked her out to the market. And Pontiac Fiero 1984, broken a bit so pointless a bit, and gone "on general principles", but never forgotten. And Pontiac Trans Sport 3.8, fenomenal locomotive, moved us to Scotland and flied thru Europe many times, but detoriated and gone (and it would be such a fine "minicamper" for now...). And I should keep as monument one of many Granadas Scorpio Ghia we had, or this unique manual Merkur Scorpio... Damn, half of the fleet was too good and too exotic to go, but about 5-6 cars I always have given up and sold something. And relocation to Scotland deleted leftovers. 😐

If there are no fancy locks or tabs on the other side, only sort of negative of front, it is not so bad. Tricky part IMHO are those fake screws, it is impossible to judge without trials if they will be "sharp" as original or half-way or small ugly turds. How deep is this cap, an inch? this calculator not help with lack of deep perception. I could check the prices and stuff, if you are really desperate, as it is not my really job or area of expertise. And don't expect £20 per item, as any cap on ebay. But maybe first ask for quote any company specialized in prototyping like http://www.cmamoldform.co.uk/ or any from google "moulding resin prototyping uk".

Honestly, I have no idea, I play with moulds and resins only for my own and with much smaller parts now (or much bigger and fibreglass in the past). But maybe I am too optimistic, first, have you any photo of back side of this cap?

If we still have example one, we don't need the 3D printing, simple moulding and some resin could do the job.But still a lot of work and some cost. Ony if it is really impossible to find on every ebay and scrapyard in the half of the world...