Ben01

Maybe I would not go against the blue, but please, gift me for free RCF in white, with small bag full of cash in the trunk, and I wrap her in any non-white colour and re-trim her in slightly better leather, before you start procedure on UN genocide tribunal... 😜 BTW leather - keep in mind please, any and every mass produced automotive leather is "good enough" leather heavy dyed and painted with best industry grade flexible spray paints and topcoats. Period. 90% babling about special processes and aniline and softness and so on, so forth (and next about care products, "creams for leather", "closing the pores", etc.) are marketing mambo-jumbo. But of course, there are differences, the same factory could produce leather for volvo, for jaguar and for aston-martin, and processes and quality are slightly different. I believe RCF and other top lexuses are from top end of mass-production scale, but trust me, there are many more higher shelfs in this world... (I am such a smartboi because we work for tanneries sometimes, central Scotland is "leatherfield" and a lot of automotive manufacturers source leather here).

The car has flown very nice, but I have starting to look for "something to do" this weekend and beyond. There is a bit of noise on front suspension (trailing arm(s), I think). And brake pads are squeeky again a bit (common copper grease has not worked too long). And I think it is worth to clean and gease callipers pins before they will stuck. So probably "front end massacre" will income this weekend, if weather permits. I want to refurbish wheels, but at any workshop in the area - it is logistic nightmare for me at the moment (or - I don't need second set of wheels, I don't like to rent a car, etc). So I will start to play with rims (rimming?) myself probably, logistics is muche easier. But of course, it will be joke not high quality refurbish. BTW I think about darker gray rims. I though about some USB power sockets here and there, I just received some parts for this, so maybe next days. I planned one double socket back and one front, with reasonable amperage, but now I think it is a bit overkill. We dont drive with children (or anybody) in the back all the time and we don't have a zylion devices around. And there are two lighter sockets in front. So maybe only one double USB in the back (under central vents probably). Another minor electrical job - mp3 player again. It is mostly fine, but because I made really "quick" and cheap job this time, player processor is powered and works all the time in fact. And I recognised it interferences FM radio. I have not listen a radio too often, but if I want to, I expect some minimal quality, not whistling background. So I have to rebuild a bit power cicruit etc. around mp3 player, "as should be" (and as it was in my first GS with same player). Now something completly different and idea keeps coming back - ventilated seats. First, I though about "buy a couple of ori lexus fans from ebay, power them up, make some channels etc under the leather and we will see". But it looks like nobody is satisfied with ori ventilation in GS/IS. LS system looks a bit better but in some parts like overkill. And I am not willing to spend £100-200 for nothing but noise under my *****. So next I tried to design some better approach, with different fans and design. Still, I had a doubts, and cost will be even higher. Next I dived into THE MIGHTY INTHERNETH for knowledge, dug in here and there, found a lot of good stuff (best one at the moment, this paper from 2016: Next Generation of Ventilated Front Seats BTW one of reverse-engineered examples is definitely Lexus seat). And next I thought a bit and found one or two flaws in most of approaches, manufacturers and papers (because everbody reverse-engineering everbody and they use the same methods and ideas in loops, again and again. In fact, even on this tiny example I could write a tiny book "Lack of holistic and creative approach in industry design delivered by overspecialised teams and committees"). So I think about simpler and different approach - to rebuild (and refurbish a bit BTW) front seats, with design of foam vents and channels etc. from best examples (like paper above or volvo examples), but do not focus on ideas "perforation as vent" (it does not work) and "fans, fans everywhere" (they have a few big flaws). I think about something like half-perforation-vent, half-B-side cooling/heating, and to feed this from new DIY "outlets" in rear air ducts on both sides of armrest; without any additional fans if possible. This approach has a few great advantages, like: it is quiet and no vibration and no add. controls elements and "ready" temperature for job and plenty of flow to steal. Of course, it will be a lot of fun, to make any flexible but robust ducts in tiny space between armrest/central tunnel and seats/under seats. And struggle with leather, and struggle with foam, lumbar support, heating elements, etc. But I am familiar with subject "lets spread complex front seats to the tiny pieces and refurbish them / build something new", so this is the plan at the moment, for some point in the future.

I forgot to mention most "funny" leak into manifold thru PCV - oil stick not fit properly or without seal or with broken plastic, etc. In fact, I never have seen such a stupidity, and I dont think the "sucking" from stick pipe thru half of engine is enough to fool the MAF/ECU of big engine (the same - small crack on distant vacuum pipe for acctuator, EGR, sensor etc. is not very significant vs. dragonbreath of V8), but some people mentioned this. Other point - always remeber 90% of vauum pipes around manifold etc. it is not critical for engine "to work". For test you could patch suspected seals with silver tape, remove pipe and plugged hole with anything fit, disconnect PCV valve and close his hole with tape, etc. Next reset codes for lean and try a bit drive or rev up/down engine stationary a few times. And again and again 😉

Geoff, you right some elder models are easier to fix now than in dark zone of "too old to be easy to fix, too young to be classic and supported". But still, this way they are far away from "original", if somebody cares about. And even if somebody does not care, where is borderline? Modern radiator? shafts from audi '07 not BL '70? different engine? better transmission? whole suspension? home grown interior? and why bother ourselfs with frankensteins like this and pretend to be "classic", when there are so many fine cars outside the garage? From my point of view, if I would have to rebulid my lovely car from scratches, with half of critical parts new, manufactured or from bettern/modern cars, I would build something totaly own, let me think, better version of jag XJ220 😝

It is not about a worry, I think, it is about "economy of emotion". Because, yeah, there are small cost yet and not immediate, YET. But point is, in next years it will be, more and more, and more often. Some day it will be fuel pump, cats, snapped spring, more and more, small or rather not so small bills. And Matthew is perfectly right about cost trap (in neuroscience: sunken cost fallacy), man, this is common people issue on anything, from any "drive A to B car" to toxic ideologies and toxic spouses. Other important question is how milage you have yearly, you could easy keep any car to 2060, in the dry garage. But I have on my GSes like 15k miles/yr or more, over Scotland. And I dont have time and/or money for private car museum.

Amen for this. And it should be a motto for every petrolhead, who has budget much lower than Jay Leno or sultan of Brunei.

It is not air leak "post filter" or airbox, this is wrong interpretation. Typically it is "post MAF" (air flow sensor), or even "post throttle body" leak. Check every vacuum/pressue pipe connected to manifold (there is a few of them). Keep in mind the leak could be in distance, on any elbow, pipe, a half meter from manifold. Common weak point is short fat pipe from passenger side cover, from PCV valve to somewhere next to throttle body, this pipe sucks oiled hot air from engine, after years is badly detoriated, cracked etc (it was in my current GS). Next point are gaskets of manifold, throttle body, etc. it is rare, but they could "gone", crack, etc.too and make nice leak into manifold. Unscrewed (a bit) manifold or throttle body etc is very rare, rather human error (somebody forgot to proper screw it), but **** happened. A bit of lecture now: codes for "lean mixture" typicaly are interpreted as "too much air" leak into engine after MAF, like above. In fact, ECU "watching" the MAF and the O2 probes, and he "knows" how much fuel is feeding every moment, as he alone controls injectors. So, in every cycle ECU calculate from MAF (air flow) and a few more parameters, how much feed the engine with the fuel, open injectors accordingly, and next check if O2 probes confirm expected values in acctual conditions, with proper delay, both ends of cat, etc. If O2 values are out of tolerance (for steady revs and closed control loop = out of steichiometric) up or down, we have "lean" or "rich" codes. Keep in mind, every link in chain above could be "wrong physically". Worse, every ECU input or electronics could be "wrong electronically". So, typicaly for "lean" codes above is "too much air" and leak after MAF (MAF shows 5, but leak unnoticed gives +1, ECU calculates and injects as for MAF=5, O2 sensors shall be "in tolerance", but they are lean (+1 air, 6 not 5), ECU is "whoa, what the hell, code P0171 please"). But it could be ANY other option, like O2 probes faults (power/input IC broken and both of them shows too much/too low, out of pretty narrow characteristic), fuel pressure (MAF=5, no leaks, ECU injectors 5, but really only 4, because petrol pressure regulator/sensor half broken, O2 probes have seen +1 air and report same "we are too lean, captain"); in case of code for one head only - broken single injector, single O2 probe, etc.

I have no idea about your scanner, but it shows you zero stored codes but what means "Codes Found 1"? means any "temporary" code? and are there another options for them maybe? (and reason ELM lights on). In my OBD2 programme it is called "not validated" and "validated" errors or something like this.

... and this 90deg. action is wrong and potential disaster (flooding the compressor, and name is "compressor" not "pump" for reason) Sorry I called this "shaking" (I am obviously not native).

Bingo. I am not sure about a Lexus/Toyota exactly parts, but what I know about subtle programming differences for Lex/Toy and from my common practice with Japanese industry electronics (hitachi on my desk today and mitsubishi at the workshop) they LOVE to bulk order specialised ICs and in Japan it was very common and cheap practice. And next you have a big very high quality industry controller (PLC) still working, but somehow with broken comlink. And everybody included local dealer is "Oh, it is easy fix, some MAX or other 232C IC to replace". And next everybody recognise this small comm IC totaly and definitely NOT EXISTS in any database and supplies. And next local dealer called me "Yeah, Hitachi Japan confirmed, it is spec-IC for their internal customized order, no way to find it on the market, but they still keep some 15yr old stock. So we could sent this controller to Japan for refurbish, or I could offer you sort-of compatible controller, 10x more powerful and brand new, in same price as their quote for fix". And of course, everything is possible, we could piggyback any ECU, we could fix any programme. But it is simple not worth it. And even if it is worth it in personal oppinion, immediately forget about any "originality" in public perception. Not everybody is landing like Chris Evans with his "original" California, but even I had a nasty comments and situations on my fugly cars "orginality". And thank you, I remember I forgot something, and this is it - I have to buy big box of any and every preservatives, and pour them on current GS. Its big, bad and ugly, and I don't care but why not keep her with a few pounds without perforation, for a moment 😉

But guys, do you understand, you talk now about dreamy trust to any greedy manufacturers and investors, who move whole factories around the world every few years, looking for cheaper resources and workforce? What exactly Firestone Turanza AD2018 has in common with Turanza AD1998, I don't bet even factory spec is the same (And maybe it is good, because in 1996 or 98 Firestones were not recognised as "good tyres", but as far as remember they were in connection with Japanese Bridgestone all time, so probably Firestones on LSes were not as bad as on Explorers etc.) I don't trust any tyre name, brand or model historically, they change anything every few years, and I have a very bad experience on this ("give me very same dunlop/continental/michelin as on rims, but newer ones" and car was immediately undriveable or noisy or whatever). I trust only "fresh" opinions of users and pros in this business, and my own, of course 😉

I found only this at the moment, so "to do": both "heater" fuses, HTR relay and blower controler, for now, voltages everywhere and if HTR "on". I could not help you with locations, last time I dug into blower it was GS 1gen. and don't remember at all which part is where.

Did you try to set temperature for heating, not cooling and if blower starts? AFAIK power feed for blower is a bit crazy, for heating is interlocked by body ECU, for cooling by engine ECU (and engine ECU looks at dual AC pressure sensor), and next inline is the blower control module with set point from control panel.

I am not a [censored] specialist, but even I have seen (ok, I watched briefly) at least two or three problems with video above - I did not notice he has using of any oil, and nobody should shakes bottle like this over the compressor, evacuation should by much longer. But who cares, lets sing chorus https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BwBKjK7Xik0: Everybody is Google-Fu Fighting Those kids are fast at repairing In fact, it is a little bit frightening But they think they do an expert DIYing

60/16" profile is a bit unusual now for a car, but still is like a 100 models of 225/60/16 on the market... 🤨

I don't believe you try to trained yourself as AC technician on a car forum, by random incredible basic questions. Buy or download any books or manuals on cars AC, please, and read them. Or watch hours of less-than-more accurate youtube's "how-tos". Or don't bother yourself and find a decent AC service in your area.

So imagine your LS is first one from 1989 NOW and you want to keep her running and in good shape. And nobody exept you and three other fans think "gosh that's nice looking car", inside or outside. And it is more and more difficult to find a parts and services, and your welder guy is your best friend by now. This is your LS in 2028. Lets say, I and many friends of mine were like you with old fords. Everything was possible up to 250k miles or 25 years, "we keep her forever" (in the case of LS quality is better so it could be a bit longer, like 30 years). Next most of people have given up (me - year ago finally), and moved to slightly newer similar comfy barges, like me into lexus. Only rich enough and Asperger's enough stay with '80 big roadworthy fords. (too long lecture about life and Universe and no-attachment ways cut here) When I am elder and elder, I less and less care about particular EXAMPLE, next MODEL, next MANUFACTURER even of the car. They are mass produced cars on public roads, so nothing is unique (or safe) here, only our emotions (not because emotions are unique, but because they are ours). I care about idea "big powerful comfy saloon" (with deviation in "coupe" sometimes), because I have fallen in love of cars like this since I was teenager, and this KIND of cars make me really and deeply happy, not particular car. BTW it is near impossible know yourself without experience, without owning 20 different cars and daily using another 20, in many shapes and colours and insurance bands. Path of "I love THIS car" is fine, but could become path of more and more suffering and sadness (it was very sad day when the lorry pick up my "THIS car" to scrapyard). Or, like friend mention above, who bought mint '80 ford - on his path in his beloved car was drunken speeding driver in crappy peugeot, who hammered his first beloved Granada into banana shape. But if you rich and/or stubborn enough everything is possible, of course. You could send your car into the hight orbit too 😉

One way or another, top up without proper vacuum pump and pure guessing a weight is wrong IMHO. We could call it DIY or Susan, but without equipment and knowledge it's still messing nice cars up. But it is your car, of course.

I have seen this one on gumtree a few days ago for £1195 and I LOLed too. For £500 as box of spare parts, maybe, but for grand with some change, ridiculous.

I would agree there is a lot suspiciously rusted "bargain barges" every time there is a lot of literally sunken barges on the roads, but precisely - I've never seen or thought flood affects exhausts too much. Sills, floors, all steel corners, anything and everything under matts and carpets? of course. Half broken electronics? included. But exhaust? not so much, half year stay in a corner of the yard damage exhaust much more than two days uder the water. BTW I have same opinion on brakes, same problems vs. long stay, mileage and flood.

Welcome to LOC and nice to see people still use great and fabulous GS300 2gen! Like my neighbour, I sold him blue one (from signature) like a month ago and he still talks to me, despite he found a few quirks, new even for me.

BTW worst scenario is not mileage (meh), short journeys (mhm), but if car has low mileage because stays for long long time not used at all, at the garage even, don't mention under the not-so-blue British sky. The exhaust could be rusted "above and beyond" in this case (and it was my first GS story, I think).

From my experience, with complex barges like LS, never ever think you could keep them "original" for next 20 years, means 40yrs from production. Even next 10yr will be difficult. You could handle steel, most of mechanical parts, but plastics, rubber, etc. will be detoriated faster and faster, in used parts at scrapyards too. Next, electronics will be really troublesome, as ICs and glues and soldering not stay for much longer than 20-30 years, again, in used parts too. So even canibalization is not an option at the end, because you will know this module or sealing is broken in every still existing example. And if you start to manufacture sealings, supension parts, or brake discs (true story, let me introduce you to honda s-mx) or refurbish old ECUs etc. you will need sheik's money. And next, imagine you will get a buyer or a oldtimer specialist who laugh on you and call you a liar about "original" car, as car is resprayed, welded, with adapted shock absorbers (ori were not manufactured since 1999), electronics were patched a few times and interior is in two shades of original colour. About "classic" approach, it is different problem, every car could be called classic, there are fan clubs of moris marina and renault clio mk1 and ford sierra mk1 and any cars, perhaps all those cars are "classic" for owners. But this means nothing for publics, it is other version to say "I like this elder car a lot", yeah, we get it. They are not ferraris nor porsches, they are not emotionally loaded "classic" cars in public perception and LS or GS neither. But do what makes you happy. As once upon a time friend of mine planned to spent like a half of price of brand new loaded ford focus to buy mint '90 ford granada and "keep her forever" and I was "What's the point, pal" - "It makes me happy" - "End of topic". By the way, I should check if he still has this granada...

I would walk away.

I would suggest follow "big" pipe from evaporator ("cabin") to compressor, this is sucking side and should be low press valve. Other issue is how you guess how much agent and oil top up, and why bother yourself and spend any coins on equipment and gas. Even Halfords has free check first, and top-up proper weight and oil for £50 or so. Bottle of R134a plus minimal equipment is more expensive I think.