Ben01

I am not sure about applying raw power to the motor (what is nominal voltage of this one?), but it is definitely good idea to remove HTR, shortcut pins 1 and 2 in its socket with some solid wire, and try to normal control of blower.

So was mine 😉 and "Idiotic Sarcasm In The Intherneth" is my middle name.

So, is HTR relay switch on or not (or - is there voltage at B+ on blower controler)? Because it is "first" link after fuses, and it is driven by body ECU, not engine ECU...

Have you tired with 400 words about AC services? Sorry, it is difficult to discuss any technical issues in tweets or in super-funny one-liners. And sorry for my Engrish. Good night.

Linas, you too, please with sugar on the top, don't compare fridge with car's AC 😂 because your analogy is wrong too - yes, normal fridge will be dead in a week used in hi-g 4x4 pickup jumping over rough terrain, but the car's AC is DESIGNED to work more-less fine in the car, for years. About service - I am somewhere in the middle 😉 Approach "don't touch if its not broken" is cheapest and easy, but good for near new cars (in the other words - near new machines). And Linas is right, fill-up or some panick moves when [censored] hit the fan, is typicaly too late, and rebuild of dying system is economical nonsense. Service more often, yes, it is some weak form of preventive maintenance, but easily could be nonsense and waste of resources - why every 2 years, not every year? why yearly, not monthly? (if I have a £100 for every discussion like this in my industrial practice last 30yrs, I got used LC500 not used GS... 😜) . So my feeling about AC service is - AC is designed as whole car (and its warranty...), for a few years and/or 100k miles, roughly; slightly more in lexus, slightly less in vauxhall. So it should be serviced, maybe refurbished, every few years, four - five? with presumption is new or mint in the beginning. (and other presumption is we care to keep a mint AC or a mint car) And I define "service" not as "cash upfront, fill-up, impress customer with 8deg on vent, go, go, go" like Halfords or other ignorant minions with vacuum pump, but: suck all freon on proper weighter and to carefuly judge how much left, replace dryer/filter, full load of fresh oil, etc. etc. Lets say every 4 years (and in the beginning, if there is used car with no history and significant mileage). And it is weak form of preventive maintenance, because it gives only fresh oil, dry clean freon and some information about leak (if we lost 0.1kg or 0.5kg last years). There is no way new oil and filter rebuild compressor or sealings, so don't be overoptimistic about result of such "preventive maintenance" in 15 or 20yr old car. Recognition of leak (significant lost of freon) or any problem at "service", should be clear signal to proper maintenance (refurbish whole system before expensive break down), not for "let's fill-up and we will be fine for next 2 or 4 years", because you will not.

In theory, it could happen suddenly. In practice, 9 per 10 the garage [censored] anything when they have worked on the radiator - like: mess with transmission lines, transmission cooler, spilled ATF from lines/cooler and hushrushhush fill-up transmission with wrong type ATF, etc etc. BTW please next time start with full info about situation, how could anybody guess "car was fine and it was radiator job". Edit: Press them HARD, if they drained/filled transmission with any ATF on the radiator job.

Always good idea, but am I right the toyota/lexus ATF filters are fine grid/mesh, difficult to clog? I never have any in my hand, but I hear opinions they are "loose" compared to typical dacron or VERY dense and fine dacron (clogging super-easy) etc. in other brands.

First, please, with sugar on the top, never compare fridge or home AC (hermetic compressor, system mostly soldered together) with car's AC (compressor belt driven and 10 sealed fittings here and there in the system) in terms of reliability or robustness. Second, let's first rationally define "leak" (as g/yr or smth), and next we could discuss what is the timing for services with fill-up and user experience for 5yrs, 10yrs or 20yrs car's AC. Because other way, users of 5yrs old cars with average leak 40g per year ("I have never heard about any problem and my AC was always ice cold") could be in big pointless fight with users of 20yrs cars with smaller average leak 30g per year ("my AC is weaker and weaker, I need a fill up maybe"). As Linas said, always there is a leak (marginal at hermetic type, like fridge, but still). Question is how big is a leak and how much "surplus" freon manufacturer put into system to cover possible micro-leaks (so, how system was designed in terms of storage of agent against real needs for flow and pressures). Typical AC in car got like 40-50% freon as storage for microleaks (and warranty...), means user don't recognise any "cooling" problem until 60% of weight left. And for "temperature" criteria even less, probably 30-40% is enough for make air from vent "ice cold" in static test with vigorous revs (but it could be not enough freon for proper heat transfer in very hot moisture day in the trafic jam).

Keep in mind please, all clutches (any types) in the normal auto transmission are wet clutches, typically mulipack clutches, they are soaking in hot ATF oil. So, quality of the oil, its detoriation, overheating, etc. is critical wholesale, and for slipping of clutches too. And flush with fresh oil could improve "grip" of old, "glass-like" clutches. And sometimes there are dust or particles in the transmission, circulating with oil, and make slips here and there, or hesitate valves controlling clutches (this makes delays on clutches), and again, drain of old oil remove particles (but next question is, how many times we have to flush system to really remove dust, especially deposit from radiator(s) and torqe converter) . But of course, could be no effect of flush, or short term improvement, if there is not enough material on the clutches, or are internal leaks on sealings, acctuators etc.inside transmission (this is typical after serious overheating), so not enough force on the clutches and internal valves have random micro-leaks. The new oil can not rebuild clutches or refurbish stiff or damaged sealings.

I think "popping out of park" is possible only with extreme wear of parking mech or very bad designed tranny, even on a slope. Using parking brake on the hi slope with autotranny is recommended not for safety, but rather for easier release parking ratchet, without the stress or "scars" (probably minor, but still), under weight of the car. In normal cars there is no big deal to release or no damage, but it is much easier (in mediocre designed cars, you simple can not release the parking lock under weight of the car, you break lever or mechanism first, elder jags were infamous of this, old XJs? I don't remeber).

Paul, is this one? https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201807098278697 Looks nice. First, there are like 20-25 examples of IS250C on the market in all UK in my all internet. So there are no "people in the know", nobody daily trade is250c, everybody could look into web only, like you or me. Second, it looks like 10k is rather for white, 100k miles and not-so-mint IS250C at the moment, 9-10yr age. For silver, mint and 40k the price tag 12k look reasonable for me. Third, for elder cars I personally don't look too deeply into FSH, more into mileage and car itself. For me low mils and really mint conditon car better prove owner(s) care and love, than any book full of mint stamps, but with average condition car, with twice or three times mileage.

Welcome to LOC I hope "needs a coolant bleed" is not a translation of "she is overheating a bit", which is translation of "a head gaskets job is upon us". etc... I could not help you with services around London, my only connection is my current GS430 with LPG was from London, but I would recommend the previous owner garage to a personal enemy only.

Into white rounded container? It is for cooling agent, toyota's pinky stuff. May I suggest download the owner manual for your car and read it? https://drivers.lexus.com/lexusdrivers/resources/owners-manuals?type=om

Honestly, I use them mostly before MOT and on the MOT. And maybe once or twice a year if I have to park on the real slope. Not only in GS but in any automatic cars. I don't say it is good, as brake mechanisms rusted and stuck easier, but simple I am too lazy and there is no point. The parking ratched or lock in proper designed tranny (don't look in the old jaguars direction) is bulletproof and shiny after 10yr of using without a handbrake. For me this is more secondary emergency brake properly demanded by law, than any parking brake. BTW this is a madness for me, some people apply handbrake at every traffic lights, etc. Ok, a bit less than pure fail on get into N or P in autotranny at every traffic lights, but still.

Sorry, I have fixed on "engine swap" theme. And IMHO you right, to trade IS 1gen for IS250 is maybe not insane as to swap their engines, but a bit dull and PX like this (and in this case) is same as "break the bank" probably.

Briefly: drive in or transit has not much with detailed EU rules and laws, until you not import the car into EU. For international transit across Europe most important set of rules is https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vienna_Convention_on_Road_Traffic Please read with care article (or Convention itself). And I may suggest print couple of most important original parts about "the vehicle must meet all technical requirements to be legal for road use in the country of registration", the vehicle has to be equipped for country of registration only etc. in English and French, and keep it in you car on the road. That was theory. In practice, it is depending of the mood of policemen, acctual rules invented by their managers and politicians, and if you have a strenght and THE WILL to discuss with police and beyond, like with diplomatic consule on your phone try to explain angry police force to [censored] off of your car. Last 20yrs was a lot of "road wars" in all Europe, all "borders". Polish police could try to check if you have certified fire extinguisher and a triangle, German if you have certified medpack and hi-viz vests for all passengers, and most "funny": snow tyres in the winter, French if you have certified alco-test, and so forth. And every of them could try to ticket you, because why not and they know you have not time nor will to spend half a night to discuss with them and consul. I don't say every policeman is fraudster lookin for you money, and every chief of police or politicians set-up local "rules for forigners cars" from the top of hat is idiot, but be prepared. And travelling with "stranger" licence plates in ridiculous car, loud, tinted like batmobil, with crazy aftermarket lamps, etc etc provoke any road police very easy. Low profile and blend into the crowd are much better bet. And you are a bit handicapped at the very beginning with Ukrainian licence plates, sorry.

As I exepected. There are subtle differences in shoes' shape for models years and models, as far as I remember. Aftermarket manufactures care not much (Brembo should be ok, but who knows), aftermarket suppliers advert any [censored] care even less. I suggest to find shoes precisely for you car, for example in https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/lexusofficialstore or with any Lexus dealer maybe, this is not very expensive item. Or try to compare old and new shoes for every detail and shape, and adapt new ones if it will be possible.

So what is the point to swap like this? IMHO if powerpack swap does not improve power or torque, let's say 50%, or reliability 3 times, it is not an upgrade, it is "engineering exercise in insanity".

2.5l V6 from IS250 is same power and less torq compare to elder inline GS/IS300, or am I wrong?

Do you have a problem with a new set or with old shoes?

Nay. About 290HP and (especially) 440Nm is more than enough for my needs and my daily public roads at the moment. And even if I need a bit more, I am too old and experienced to look for any low cost stupid upgrades (translation: ruin) of this V8, and pretty sure I have no money, time and will for good and reliable upgrades of this V8. If I feel I need more power, I would buy GSF or LC some day 😄. In the scope of "power", one idea has blinked on me - if the diff is a bit oily and needs some refurb, maybe it is worth to look for any good limited slip diff to replace. But next idea "it is not worth any of my precious resources" punched the first one in the small stupid face. BTW power/torque and handling - those cheap china tyres, if i remember correctly Excelon someting something (Performance?) are suprisingly good on GS430 on narrow and curvy Scottish roads (my everyday fly is A809). They are normal on dry, but even on wet tarmac is relatively difficult to drift the car. And noise is acceptable (if sunroof cover's tiny rattle annoys me, means tyres and exhaust are sort-of fine 😁 ). Not bad for half a price of EU made models (BTW are Nokians made in Russia? I don't remeber now 🤨 ). I could recommend them as budget summer tyres. On the other news, the GS warm up pretty long in my mind, today was 11deg in the morning, and changeover to LPG was late, and gauge up and heater too. I noticed this before, but not bother yet. It looks like new thermostat will coming, for a start.

Yeah, I used to this front a bit after a year. And you right, it is distinctive now, when most of E-klasse, scorpios and s-type were gone (and fiat 500 is in different league). But still, I dream sometimes how nice could be GS 2gen with front like something between 1gen and 3gen. BTW I don't like GS 3gen rear for a change, this "narrow" fastback is minor "nay" for me. One way or another, I don't care too much about exterior styling. I don't need to impress anybody with it, I don't see it fre the car. It is much lower on my list than powerpack, interior or gadgets.

Yeah, but IMHO it is like learning wrong skills on wrong examples. Why do you insist on stick tranny? Are you really think your IS200 manual after your budget "upgrade" will beat on the road stock IS300 auto? IMHO it is not gonna happen. OK, with presumption you don't like IS200 dragster-type (throw away all excess weight and rebuilding everything from engine to wheels after every race). I may suggest find any IS300 in classifieds in your area, test drive, judge if it has enough "bottom end" etc. Next think if ****ing on the stick is worth all this effort and money you will bin on any IS200 upgrade, rationalised by "I learn myself" - compared to ready made and bulletproof IS300 solution with 50HP and 90Nm more. IMHO after my personal and many friends experience on "budget upgrades", "I want a few HP more", " I need a better bottom end", etc etc and lack of money masked with "I like DIY", "I learn myself" there is only one way to make any sense with upgrades of stock "weaker" cars ("weaker" means there is ready made more powerful "sister", IS300 vs. IS200, GS430 vs.GS300, ford cosworth vs. ford normal, etc etc). Recipe is: aim MUCH higher than powerful "sisters", proper budget, some skills, a LOT of persistence. So IMHO ugrade like this famous IS 1gen with corvette engine and manual is madness in every sense, but it is OK. Drop into IS any supras/aristo pack with 2JZ-GTE etc, is insanely complex and expensive, but if you like naked power (and turbos), OK. But upgrade of stock IS200 with lo-turbo for +50HP, or similar solution barely equal to IS300, is waste of time and resources.

Enough for today. Everyting is back in place, USB power works, dimm light in the box too. Not everything is ideal, but good enough for now. And I should think about some led or dimm ring over this USB socket... next time. And central tunnel,switches etc. are a bit cleaner now. But still, I could spent a few full days on cleaning this beige interior... Something different, nice piece of "history" IMHO: there are pieces of velcro, stapled to the internal armrest airducts and some other pieces of foam etc. There are two colours marks at every piece, probably yellow - worker, red - quality inspection. 2002, Tahara Plant, Japan: (there is a ruler as picture is part of photo session for seat's vent outlet design, in the future). Now something completly different - it tried to fix couple of tiny dents in windscreen, with kit like on photo, couple days ago. UV resin is fine, idea is sort-of fine, but this "injection device" is pure joke, probably China fake, made after some working precision example. Not recommended.

What about lathe? (sorry, I am a bit seek of this 3D hype). In this case, any workshop with lathe and aluminium rod will be 5x faster, 5x cheaper and makes in solid aluminium. 3D printing could be a solution, but for really complex parts and if you have an example or proper digital model. In normal case, you know, lathe, mill, even oldschool file and vice enough for 99% parts, like last 100yrs.