Ben01

I would suggest good quality non-acid non-coloured silicone (easy sourced from electronic shops and workshops). Clean the pieces before seal and apply silicone very tiny aroud the "glass", cable entry, and any suspicious places.

AFAIR it is difficult to say "it's from AC", it is like small fan simple suck the air under the seat? (ok, there is duct output here) and push into the cover of seat. I thought couple of times to grab this and install into my GS non-ventilated-seats (and ISes version is easy to find, LS is rare), but always second thought was "it is not worth all this DIY and troubles"...

BTW remember me old story with carbon and cluelessness - potential buyer discusses fake bmw M-series with proud owner, and many many obvious doubts, "Is this real composite carbon bonnet??" - "ARE YOU KIDDIN ME, it is not [censored] plastic, it's high quality carbon foil!"

But don't forget the whole topic is biased as hell, by our worst enemy - by time flow. Here is the forum of one of the most reliable and best cars in the world, but a bit expensive, so full of old richs grumpy guys 😄 and we name "worst cars" from crapcars we used as poor youngsters mostly. Don't forget somewhere in the darkness of internet at the very moment there are forums full of young or/and poor drivers with VW diesels in dull skodas, french cars with very funny electronics, cheapest fiats/chryslers/hyundais or unholly GMs products, etc. In two-three decades they could be rich enough to jump into more expensive, bigger and better cars. And they will talk the same as we now - "the worst was car X (I got when I was young and poor), the best one is audi/lexus/tesla/kia 😉 I have now". BTW the same bias we find if we step back in time - I bet Morris Marina was technicaly OK for people who got driver licence in 1930, same as my crappy '80 Fiat 126p, but Italian, metal and four-stroke, was modern and elegant compact car in the eyes of users of Eastern Germany two-stroke plastic Trabant from 1960. Etc. etc.

I have checked couple of things today afternoon, and made some tests. First, quick look at engine oil (I have no idea when it was changed, or what mileage - and we rode like 2500miles in 6 weeks now...), oil looks fabulous, yellow-brownish, no problems, a lot of time to change in my mind. Next, I connected to LPG ECU, to fine adjust LPGs "fuel gauge" levels and other minor setpoints. When I was fiddling with details, I have seen a bit forgotten options for "hi revs" swap to gasoline. I have seen it before, but did not touch it, as I do not like it - because old days it was very harsh and unreliable option, and needless used gasoline of course. But today I was like "lets try it", because modern LPG ECU is much better than old PoSes I used to, whole engine and its ECU is in perfect shape now, and I hate this LPG low pressure "kick" I have sometimes, it is very dangerous for transmission etc. in my mind (and I have not time, resources and will to replace evaporator now). So why not, lets try it. I setup everything in no-time and have a test ride next. Results were a) unexpected b) fabulous. The modern systems and ECUs swap seamlessly from LPG to gas and back, the only "problem" is a bit rich fueling on swap "up" and "down". But it is realy a bit (like, it is not enough to upset engine ECU), so it does not bother me; it is even some "upgrade" maybe, as on high demand air flow to the engine is only restriction for sure now. Additional gasoline above 4800rev does not bother me at all. Summarized - I ride cheaply on LPG, like crappy diesel, but on full throttle, even with "power key", even uphill, now everything is as factory setup and feels as near new; in James May's words "You sort of get a discreet 'ahem' from the butler, and then this big aristocratic whomp in the kidneys". And no slightest hesitation or risk from LGP side, only common risk to blow the motor or tranny on red line. So, I stay with this setup for now, I don't say new evaporator drops form list "to do" totally, but it drops to very bottom of list. On the other news, I realised last days car is rather quiet inside on normal ride now (after exhaust's major leak was patched, but still some leaks here and there), if a little rattling sunroof cover or a bit buzzing on driver door sealing start to annoy me. But it is my annoying hearing capability probably, not the car.

I don't get it - you know your GS is "quietter, comfier, quicker, better specced" so better in every way than beema diesel, rusting in less 10 years (???), and still "time will tell"? Do you think your GS will be rusty in next 3 years? I don't think so 😉

In some circles nicknamed "queen of trailers", as you have seen them on car trailer mostly. Renault Megane from same era in same circles was called "princess of trailers". Not because is better (same electrical gremlins all around), but Megane was simple smaller one.

BTW the system of rear pads, put in the "pockets" from outside of calliper, is commonly known as "Sumitomo system", at least in "my area". And keep in mind all Japan is constructed around enormous conglomerates, cooperate (or fight behind curtain) at huge scale. Sumitomo, Seibu, Toyota, Toshiba, Hitachi, Kawasaki, Yamaha, Fuji/Subaru, Mitsubishi, etc. You think Kawasaki bike, Subaru (former Fuji Heavy Industries) cars, Hitachi electronics, but they produce everything, from ships to spaceships. And sometimes cars or parts for cars, so don't be suprise by strange names and connections. I remember my visit in Tokyo, next to Tokyo Central station and Edo castle, I just went around and suddenly recognised half of this "Tokyo Manhattan", one of the most expensive land in the world, is owned by Mitsubishi Group - Mitsubishi towers, bank, offices everywhere. But Mitsubishi Motors is probably rather low positon in Mitsubishi Group big boss'es excel sheet.

Thanks. And how good looking is LC if only annoing things for me are front bumper and rear lamps... typicaly I want to redesign a half of the body of so-called "good looking" cars. Lunch time effect:

Inspired a bit by "worst cars we had" topic: what was the most ridiculous bit or fix or part anybody put in your car? Or garage or pro mechanics fault? I don't mind mechanical faults per se, as "iron rain" under the car or broken anything is normal and not very funny, but rather strange faults and fixes brought by people, owners and garages. Like - any previous owner put in my current GS430 new shiny wiper arms (not blades, but external arms to mount blades). But definitely they are not from GS430 2002, they have different angles and trajectory now, not like normal GS wipers... Another, probably biggest "error" I witnessed old days - somebody full serviced Ford Explorer, included automatic transmission refurbish. After service car was probably worse than before. Somebody sold the car. Some guys bought SUV with a real money and had driven half a country. They started probably with not-fully-ok car, finished with kentucky fried tranny. I bought the car with chips&fish money, struggled with it, fixed this and that, and finaly refurbished tranny myself. And I found the primary reason - somebody forgot to put into tranny very smal pin (like matchstick or half a nail) for very important valve... What is your story?

If you have enough money and like peace of mind, why not. Especialy with cars VERY expensive to fix, even if reliable one, like Lexus. Best bet called "extended warranty" I close encountered - porsche Boxter S, about 16k miles only, 2.5yr old. Somebody loan this for me for days and on third day both infamous PADM pieces (superspecial active mounts for engine/tranny) were gone. But somebody had extended warrany up to three years, very smart move, as price per mount was about £1000 plus a lot of coins for labor.

I hope you check and tighten wheels nuts first. But - take car to any shop, even tyre shop, ask boys to lift it and try (or ask them to try) to manually spin a wheels and to check wheel on the hub. If vigorous spin give you awful grinding noise from hub, its a hub problem. Other classic check is like: hands on hours 12 and 6 on lifted wheel and sharp powerful moves, rather inside-outside than up-down (but not left-right, this is check for steering and suspension problems). Any loosing or clicks from hub - you need a new bearing/hub (or to thigh old one, if its possible to tight, not so long grinded and very hi quality). Only issue and some skills you need: dont confuse hub click/loose with any suspension parts loosing around. And no significant sound or loosing form hub - still there are many other possible reasons, like brakes/discs, halfshafts, any parts touching wheels etc. but probably you need proper workshop to diagnostic.

Welcome to the LOC. And it is very true, one of the important reason (conscious or unconscious) to ride lexus in EU is to try to be different and out of “made in Germany” mob.

Sometimes I play with pixels when I am boring. Sometimes it is about cars. Even lexuses. Shall I share it? For the beginning, if I have enough coins for LC500 and enough coins for heavy customization, it will be something like this, probably...

Funny topic. My best one: current GS430. Or ford thunderbird 5.0HO '89. Or camaro '95. Thunderbird was exotic locomotive and flied very nice. Camaro was a lot of fun and looks great. Nay, GS430 is the best one overall. Worst one, no doubts, so called Polish Fiat 126p in '80s. [Censored] orange [censored] unholy [censored] cart. Like porsche 911, you know, engine behind rear wheels! Maybe not so powerful, it had 650cc in two cylinders (after upgrade, first series had 600cc...). Designed by stoned Italians, licensed for commies, built by drunken Poles, maintained... what means "maintenance"? kind of fish? If you think old beetle had similar set-up and low quality or has a problem or two, multiply beetle's crappiness by 3. And in quiet garage you heard the rust has eaten it, even new one. And size of this... after a year in normal car I had to drive 126p again for a moment and when I open the door I had literally no idea how could I sit in. And now is "collectable" and "funny"? (yes, this is Tom Hanks on photo) Burn them all, Hans, gimmie flammenwerfer.

Pshaw. I drop to neutral, kick the pedal, and next somebody has to pick them down from trees and lampposts. You could not believe how high even granma jump, 0.5 meter per every crack in my exhaust multiplied by cylinders number. 🤪 More seriously, I had a very few actions with pedestrians last years, strange. Probably I visit less parking lots and crossing a city not often last years.

Nobody could guess cost and scope of this kind of job from photo, and prices form other side of country two years ago only fool you. Find any reasonable garage in area, ask them for quote. About dents - buy a paint (by your car color code or matched) bottle or spray (I prefer spray, you always could spray into jar or glass a bit and use this with brush, but not opposite). Buy tiny pointed brushes. Buy any mild solvent (cleaner better, but any white spirit would be enough) to clean dents and brushes. Always work in superdry condition (not foggy day or after/before the rain etc). If dent is on plastic or metal, but not to the bare metal/rust, just clean it gently with solvent, dry it hard, and apply paint inside dent with tiny pointed brush, a few times if needed. If dent is to bare metal/rust it is good idea to buy any anti rust agent/filler or "rust conversion" agent (I still use some Brunox leftovers), try to remove much as possible rust without more damage and apply an agent before paint, according to manual for agent (never mix brushes for paint and any other agent!). It is never perfect or invisible, don't believe in any adverts on tip-ups, but IMHO it is better than rusted dents, or black/white dents on plastic parts.

Very true. I designed garage for our sooner-than-later former house as for two normal size cars (normal in '90 Europe, to be precise 😉) side by side, with proper door etc. Never ever in 17 years fits more than one car. Sometimes half a car. Sometimes only daughter's motobike. Often no any vehicle at all, and I have to put bikes on the wall hinges 🙃

Exactly, all combined smoothly - wider track, rigid middle, easy back, most of it from the shelf and utilize existing tooling. This is normal way of an industry, nobody orders full new tooling for new or modified body, if he could find other way. Like why N platform (MarkII and first GS) was with Toyota since 1991 until AFAIR last year? Or why you could find in 2008 jag S-type floor some pieces from 1986 ford? Etc etc.

This could be the answer. If we talk about normal metal stamped parts, imagine this: low demand and marketing departament are just about to cancel two models, but stamping tools for them (cost millions) are in the middle of lifetime. What do you do, spend another million for next tooling for stampig new IS into coupe, or use what is at hand and already depreciated and try "to glue" all pieces together?

Still bloody expensive. Is it titanium or something or just rip-off on fancy car?

Mercs form '80 and early '90 had awful seats, agreed. BTW one of the most comfy and still remebered seats in all these 15 or more barges I had, it was ford granda scorpio Ghia, exactly last one before body and interior lifting in 1992 - rare fabric interior, as people took Ghia with black leather mostly (and it was not so bad soft nice leather, only delicate, not like typical panzer leather from that era). Foam and shape were sort of normal and comfy enough, but they cover them with sort of syntetic velour: grip as velcro, but very comfy, soft, quiet and cold in summer. Sometimes I got similar stuff in americans "plush" versions, but Ford Germany 1991 top velour was above and beyond any fabric I met. BTW I was always curious about this suede parts in first ISes. I never use IS more than test drive and similar moments, it feels fine, but is it realy fine? and practial?

I just back from Battle of Sensor, won by me a.k.a second attempt to install remote sensor for mp3 player on the top of dash, next to clock/"passenger belt" lamp. Three comments: 1) it works very fine and as planned, the remote works from all cabin, sensor is absolutely no intrusive behind glossy clock front 2) main problem was [censored] RoHS no-lead tin, cracking on tiny wires; when I found a bit of old-skull radioactive russian leaded heavy duty tin at the bottom of the drawer, everything was immediately easier 3) nothing more fun than after a few hours of struggle with big hands and tiny electronics in non-friendly leather and plastic environment and when everything is in place and you about to finish, you suddenly recognise clock's buttons are next to you, not inside the clock. But I am very stubborn sometimes, so it is done. In mean time, I found next malfunction on dash and serious safety breach - backlight bulb for emergency indicator switch has gone. Shame on Lexus. Fixed.

Thank you for comments. After all this job the car is in the mechanical shape I could say: I change my scrappy barges every year or so, but some of them were superior to another and stays with us much longer, like decade sometimes. And GS430 looks like this case, not like my typical "dig it, use it, bin it" car. After reset of VSC lamps car is much smoother and nicer overall, even on LPG in hi demand moments. It suggests even with no error codes on ECU, "state of mind" with "VSC lamps on" significantly marks sort-of half-limp mode, and probably much too rich injection on high demand (this is my theory based on how LPG ECU following gasoline ECU and reacts before and now, and how strange "limp modes" designers put into ECUs of many brands and models I owned). About "no logo" approach - I did not fully realize I have in fact proper "sleeper" or "Q-car" now (a bit of power, common boring silver saloon, "no logo", old plates, awful paint), until some boys in any (hot?)hatches yesterday were first suprised, next desperate to see my rear and to look "what the hell just flies by us".They had no chance. On the other news, I just realize how cheap is rims refurbishing in the area, but I have no idea yet how to organize logistic for this, I have no other car at hand at the moment. Food for thought.

Lets formulate this way "I try to be still rational and not given up to common "safety" paranoia and "false risk maps" delivered us wholesale by all media". I would agree to this 😄 BTW nice example last days - insurer insists on better car accident injures cover, but somehow not for any accident injures cover. I bet people are very easy to convince to increase cover (and fee) for car accidents, everybody has seen gore pictures from serious accident, maybe even witness some accident. Gues what accident injury is much much more probable in UK, in your car or at your home.