kayble

That's it. Did find though, that if there's an underlying fault in the SRS system (as in my case), the pin bridge trick wouldn't work. I had part of the srs unplugged when I did the paperclip trick and VSC/ABS lights came back immediately. I.e - it'll solve the issue with zero point calibration loss, but if you have another underlying fault, it likely won't. Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

In preparation for a local car meet (Coffee and Cars - Liverpool) I spent quite a bit of time clay barring and waxing the car in the past week. No getting around the fact that she's had paint in various areas at some stage in her life, and is a leggy old thing, but it scrubs up very nicely indeed: The black silver plates are just for show - i can pop white/yellow road legal plates in as necessary. I'm dithering somewhat with my big project, which is to install some subwoofers in the boot - I do like a custom stereo system - so far I've only got so far as to put the double DIN system in and change out the door speakers. First step wil be to run wiring to the boot and prove concept with an old Infinity bass link 10" powered sub I have in the garage, then on to bigger and better things as necessary!

1. Thorough inspection for rust - sills under the plastic covers, jacking points (mostly the rear), rear wheel wells - particularly at the point they joint the sills, rear wheel wells as they present in to the boot. 2. Excavate all mud/crud from the rear wheel wells/arches/ sills the full length/front of the car under sill covers and plastic exterior panels as they meet the sill cover 3. Check the operation of your parking brake - both the cables and the state of the rear park brake backing plate (need to take the disc off) - and check for corrosion on the backing plate/ whether the cables have siezed/broken 4. Check the condition of your sunroof, from the inside of the car - you're looking for rust on the metal frame that the glass is bonded to. 5. Check the condition of your core support - the metal under the radiator and a/c condensor - check my thread for experiene thereof. 5. Diagnostics check to look at any codes the car has stored. 6. Full maintenance of breaks & suspension; not sure if you're a DIY'er or not though; all quite simple and accessible. Glad to help if you ever find yourself around the Liverpool area 😀

Congrats on the acquisition - looks lovely! Drop your sill covers and inspect jacking points as first order of business. Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

I've got a Tony Banks exhaust on my car - it's a +1 for them from me - sorry! Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

hello all, quick update from me - my GS300 has been largely trouble free over the past couple of months. Couple of points that were surprising however: Found rust on my sunroof frame. Not as bad as some I've seen, but take a look at this: Finding this isn't so easy - in that I actually destroyed this sunroof in getting this shot - without knowing it initially. I thought I was removing the weather seal, when in fact I was removing both the weather seal and the bonded seal on the glass - blast! Sourced a replacement part from a '98 breaker car - in better condition than my own. Learning from last mistake, I left the seal on, but put a load of fluid film inside the weather seal, all around the frame: Looks messy - but once you wipe the excess away, the remainder is up inside the weather seal against the frame - inhibitng any further corrosion. I love the smell of fluid film; it's not too common in the UK, but it's used for rust proofing around cars and boats: https://www.fluid-film.com/ Very easy to remove the sunroof from the mechanism in the car - 4x nuts to remove from inside the car - hidden behind some black plastic that's easily unclipped from the interior: Would recommend folks take a look at their sunroofs at the next opportunity - just in case. Next up is trying tracking down a pirate air issue - using long term and short term fuel trims. With a basic OBDII reader connected, I've spotted my long term bank 1 & 2 fuel trims are both around +11%. Couple with a low AFR reading of around 3g/s at warm idle - it made me think I had an air intake leak after the MAF; I was right: The bottom of my resonator box has cracked open, and appears to be letting go down both long edges. I suspect this is down to heat cycling/age - and I could probably try to repair it with a plastic weld kit - but I'm going to see if I can find a good used part from a scrapper as a first option - then probably add some adhesive heat shied material and cut off the steel plate that was in their originally. Just as a proof of concept, with that crack taped up, my fuel trims improved straight away: Seeing STFT and LTFT essentially cancel eachother out is what we want to see; hoping I can find a resonator that isn't going the same way as mine! Final pic of her - really need to get on with putting adjustable arms and spacers on...

Any chance of a pic of the rear jacking points on both sides of the car, to show the pinch weld section and metal work leading towards the petrol tank? Also of the sunroof rust you mentioned please? I see you advertised on Ebay at £2,400 is that the price you are expecting elsewhere? Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

Price? Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

There aren't that many to be honest- car's been great and I'm waiting on some discount codes on ebay before purchasing more of the stereo equipment! Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

It'll still have rusty sills...even in the apocalypse.. and when civilisation comes back together, it still fail a MOT! Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

I second the recommendation for Tony Banks, took my car there for a full manifold back system, very pleased with it: Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

Right, I'm going to be dropping PB, in favour of my own hosting solution. Let's see if this pic of my car, taken today, works:

See - the thing is PB works perfectly fine on other forums I post to. I'm convinced its something to do with the way this forum software is skimming images before the get presented... it made a bunch of images pixelated as all heck in the first page of this thread, never had that happen before either. Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

GRRRR - this is infuriating! Is anyone else using Photobucket having the same issue as I'm having with 'spacer.png' appearing, instead of the picture you've linked to? now I can't edit the post I've been trying to fix - I've no idea why my images are broken on this forum as they aren't elsewhere 😖🙄

i seem to be having a whale of a time trying to host various of my pictures from photobucket. let's see if these work.. Just to report some more work on the car, this time at the front - to deal with: rusty front crossmember rusty PAS cooling circuit pipework replace a/c condenser that was falling apart - but somehow still holding pressure decided to tackle all of this at the same time for ease. First thing's first, radiator out, aircon degassed and condenser out as well: yep - I'm not fussed about coolant on the floor... ATF lines are plugged to prevent loss - radiator is set aside and PAS cooling circuit is removed. If you click and zoom the image, you'll see the condition of the cross member - which isn't too bad - but was in need of a brush and kurust after best part of 18 years. all wire brushed and kurusted: And primed: And with a couple of coats of body colour: The bottom of the crossmember got the same treatment, and some dynax in the void between the pressed steel parts. Although I didn't take a 'before' pic, take my word that one of the elbows on my PAS cooling circuit was super rusty. Without much hope of salving the part, I did wire brush it - but it was already pin-holed: Solution was to cut it after the rusty piece, and use a longer length of hose to make the connection between the cooler circuit and the rest of the pipework from the PAS pump: I didn't bother trying to bubble flare the cut end of the pipework, the new hose was snug enough - but I did put some edge stripping on the cross member to stop the hose chafing. New a/c condenser: installed in to the car (super easy to get at once the engine radiator is out: With everything put back together and the aircon regassed, the car is cold on demand, and I no longer have to worry about the PAS circuit letting loose at any moment!

First registered 13th Jan 2006 - must be one of the very last mk2s ever made! Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

Still looking smart: I think I want to space wheels on front and back by 10mm - otherwise the car is pretty much exactly how I want it!

If anyone is interested, here's what the rear of a GS300 looks like without the bumper on: I wanted to see what condition the rear bumper bar was in. Pleased to see that only minor surface rust was starting - so it's all been buzzed off, kurusted then primed. I've also run some Dynax in the cavity areas; probably overkill, but felt good to do it! Next job is to pull the front bumper off, to gain access to the end of the chasis legs to scrub any rust there, and then do the aircon condenser at the same time - that's easter weekend sorted!

David, Hello from me, I'm a 2001 GS300 owner also in Merseyside (South Liverpool to be a little more precise). Not sure what you mean - you purchased new caliper carriers because one the carrier bolt to the front knuckle snapped?

Can't belive that went for less than £1,200!! If that was as clean underneath as the rest of the bodywork suggests, someone got a bargain.

My 18 year old GS300 with no hybrid is ULEZ compliant. 2JZ or 4 pot w/ hybrid... hmmm let me think. Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

Have you dropped the sill covers? Would suggest doing so asap, so you can determine condition of the sills. Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

how did you get on with this?

This GS430 looks like it could be a bargain: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lexus-GS430-SE-Auto-car/202646087794?hash=item2f2ea5e872:g:AgkAAOSwx2Bcp0m9 3 keys and bodywork looks clean. If I was close, I'd go and have a look to see what underneath looks like. To be honest that green cat D car in London is also tempting!

How can you tell an uprated brake booster from a vulnerable ome; is there a part number for the updated one? He says with fingers crossed.... Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk