baviaannl

Just had a good look at it seems the best route is the lower trim which does continue to the back seats..  Comes with 6.5 meters of cable so should work.

Arrives tomorrow 👍

Although I love the parking mode function, I can see how it won't work currently with just a front camera installed, if someone drives past and scrapes the body work, the front camera will get nothing.

35 minutes ago, Mr Vlad said:

The rear facing camera attaches to the front facing one. If you look on yours with the lens facing away from you, on the right end you should see a rubber grommet thing covering a socket. That's where the rear camera slots into. I'll post a photo later.

Ah, I'm looking at the dedicated rear cam, that option wouldn't work for me due to the camera position which is obscured by the reat view mirror.

Just trying to work out a route through the trim..  there's no trim which carries the full car distance so I think I'll have a go with some odd wire I have spare to see how it goes.

4 minutes ago, Mr Vlad said:

Nice one Lee. So you used the drivers side fuse box. Great to know you like the 552GW but I'm surprised you didn't get the rear camera with the main one. I got my 332GW I got it from ebay from nextbase themselves. It was a reconditioned one but the rear camera came with it. Yes you can access it via Bluetooth. Enjoy.

How did you wire to the rear window?  Had a look and those internal panels look very tight although should open up enough to get the wires inside.

On 4/3/2021 at 9:22 PM, Mr Vlad said:

Yeah the fuses seem a really tight fit hence I used long nose pliers. The fuses are the micro style and you'll need a 10 amp micro fuse in the piggyback adapter. 

I agree the twirp who planned the siting of the fuse box needs shooting 🔫 lol

When pulling fuses out don't be scared. Just use a constant pulling force with a bit of wiggling. 

Thanks for all the assistance, I did get it installed yesterday and have a tip for anyone who is really tall...  Don’t attempt the passenger side fuse box, its a real pain, if you go through the drivers side fuse box, you are able to remove the trim just above that section to give yourself better access, makes the job so much easier.

Happy to say the Nextbase hardwire kit works perfectly and overall I’m very impressed.  One thing I love about the 552GW is the fact that you can view recordings straight from your phone without disconnecting the camera and download them straight to your device.

I’m toying with the idea of adding the rear camera, it connects straight to the dash cam so no more advanced wiring needed.

9 hours ago, Mr Vlad said:

Hi Lee. Yes fuse No12  10 amp ECU-IG LH 

Air-conditioning system, cruise control, power steering, rain sensor, anti glaring I side rear view mirror, shift lock system, moon roof, VSC warning buzzer. 

Think our guest boxes are the same 

I had a look today although didn't do it, I was concerned with how tight the fuses are connected to the box!  Were your fuses hard to remove?  I'm worried that if I try any harder, I'm going to break one!

Wonder what idiot decided the fuse boxes were best placed in those positions!

11 hours ago, Mr Vlad said:

Hi Lee. At first I connected it to a permanent live but I got fed up of turning the camera on and off so I looked for an ignition on fuse. Never crossed my mind to connect it to ECU.

Which fuse did you use, it seems our boxes are different as the 10amp I have in the position you mentioned is for ECU.  What ignition only one did you tap into?

24 minutes ago, Mr Vlad said:

Yes m8 the 10 amp one

Didn't it worry you connecting up to something major like the ECU?

Or am I looking at it upside down here?  Meaning you are using the 10amp ECU-IG?

37 minutes ago, Mr Vlad said:

Hi Lee. Yes it's a squeeze. I'm 5'8" so for you I suggest get the passenger seat as far back as it'll go then basically with knees on the ground twist yourself so you can see the fusebox. It'll end up being a one handed operation. I placed a torch in the footwell then using my right hand I pulled the fuse out with thin pliers. Make sure you put the supplied fuse from nextbase in the correct space. I did it wrong the 1st time and blew it as it's only a 2 amp fuse.

To thread the wire from the camera tuck it under the headlining and along until the A pillar, tuck under the trim until the dash. Where the door opening is you can see a piece of trim kind of triangular in shape. Remove that using a plastic spatular. Feed the wire through the big hole you now see to the fuse box. The hardwire kit wire is really long. I ended up curling it up and taping it together. You can hide a lot of the wire under the headlining. All the best pal. You can do it.

Thanks again for the info, had a look and it is doable!  I wonder if our fuse layout is different?  In the position you mention, I have a 7.5 panel fuse?

21 hours ago, Mr Vlad said:

That's a kit Herbie got I think. Don't know what kit the is300h guy has got. Waiting for a reply. 

Hey Vlad... How on earth did you manage to access that passenger side fuse box?  I'm 6'6 tall and couldn't find a way to do any work in that small section!  Any tricks??

42 minutes ago, Mr Vlad said:

Just read that thread Herbie. It doesn't state he's using a genuine nextbase hardwire kit just that he's hardwired it. I first bought a copy kit but it was rubbish so sent it back and got genuine. No issues what so ever. His being the 300h shouldn't be a problem.

That doesn't look like the official set he has, as you say, could be a poorly manufactured copy.

2 minutes ago, Mr Vlad said:

Hi Lee. I've got the 322GW. When I got mine I got the hardwire kit. Did you get the hardwire kit? If not then get one. Make sure its genuine Nextbase. 

Dead easy to install. Oh LenT the nextbase has an internal battery. 

The fuse I used is in the passenger side fuse box fuse number 12. As you look at the fuse box you'll see 3 rows. Looking fron the front of the car to the rear it's the middle row 3rd space (empty spaces and ones with fuses inclusive) 3rd fuse up.

One thing to note. Make sure you've got a 10 amp micro fuse as used in the fuse box (they're not normal size)

As I've stated Make sure you get the genuine Nextbase hardwire kit for your 522GW

Hi Vlad

I have got the genuine Nextbase hard wire kit coming tomorrow.... I had no idea that there was a passenger side fuse box, great information, I'll have a look later.

20 minutes ago, Herbie said:

What you see as empty slots are the top of the fuseholders. The wiring to the fuseholder is behind that so you would have to get the fuse box out to see which wires and where they go, to be of any use.

Far better to use a piggyback fuse and just use the cig lighter as Keith says above.

Cig lighter would be ideal although the previous owner broke a fuse in the slot leaving only the pins connected, impossiible to remove and I'm not paying an auto electrician £85 for the first hour to remedy.  Might have to source a voltmeter to see what the empty slots are doing.

12 minutes ago, LenT said:

Just wondered...why?

Wired like that the camera is no longer able to protect the car once you’ve left it.

You can get a power supply regulator that connects to a live supply and will keep the camera active and able to respond to knocks, hits and attempts to break in.  These regulators can be set so that should the battery voltage drop below a preset level, they disconnect the camera, so there’s no risk of the camera draining the battery.

Having had dashcams for years, I can testify to the usefulness of one that can continue to operate with the ignition off - in car parks, for example.

I think cameras such as Nextbase may have a backup battery that will give a few minutes supply when the car is parked.  But that’s not the same as having the greater capacity of the car’s battery to call on.

Is there a regulator you would recommend?

Just curious with regard to the empty slots in the fuse box, I guess they are all usable?

Want to hardwire my Nextbase 522GW, does anyone happen to know a position that is sufficient for this, need a position which turns on and off witht he car ignition.

Thanks

3 hours ago, Mr Vlad said:

90% of the time with Android Play? That's an improvement from what I read some time ago. 

Yep, just the odd occasion (once a week maybe) where I connect the phone and the unit says it's connected although nothing is displayed..  a simple unplug and try again always fixes it so it's not a deal breaker

I use the VLine 2 system in my car (ML with sat nav). It means I can use wireless apple Car Play (works perfectly) and Android wired Car Play (works 90% of the time with the odd connection issue)

Expensive option... Sure, although it works perfectly and adds many other functions to the standard (rubbish) factory system.

On 12/25/2020 at 3:19 AM, Linas.P said:

Regarding loss of power - my assumption lack of back-pressure (bigger ID pipes, less restrictive system overall) results in less low end torque. Car probably makes more top end horsepower, but it will have less low end torque. IS250 is already not great with low end torque (below 3500RPM) and this is just made it worse - as result it will feel down on "power". This is again very typical for aftermarket systems (even good ones) - they will always claims whatever "+20HP + 5NM", but what they fails to say this is "top end" and it is at the expense of low end numbers.

Your opinion is right on the money, it's low end related entirely!

Got it on the motorway last night and in my opinion at the top end it had more power than with the original exhaust, it just kept going!

Low end however is a shambles, thought the acceleration was beautiful on the stock exhaust, smooth and quiet and the cruisong performance was great, quiet and refined, very enjoyable.  Now I have a droning mess!  As I said to my wife last night, if it had of performed like that on the test drive, I'd of walked!

I'm going to visit them first thing in the morning and try and catch the manager and see if he's interested in helping with this issue, guy on the reception when I booked told me it would both sound and perform perfectly, it currently does neither!!

Hoping for some advice here really as I've found myself in a pretty bad situation.

I've had exhaust issues for a couple of years with one silencer, basically it fell off twice so I had to get it welded back on, each repair later about a year.  Got to a stage a month back where it fell off for a 3rd time so I decided to take it into an exhaust specialist to have the system looked at.

They examined the system and told me I needed a new Y pipe with 2 boxes along with 2 front link pipes, he showed me the corrosion to the pipes and to be fair it did look rough.  He quoted me £660 all in all I booked it in.  I did stress that I wanted everything as close to stock as possible and he reassured me that things would be good.

Picked it up after the work was done and drove home and I found it awful.  I've lost power and it makes the most awful droning noise, it makes me hate driving the car!

I contacted the firm with my observations although was told that by replacing exhaust sections, it would give a different experience and naturally adding stainless steel components world be noisier!

I'm at a loss here, just don't know what to do as I've ended up with something I wouldn't have bought after a test drive.  Are there any solutions available for aftermarket systems that can improve things?  Poxy Covid has messed up my finances so don't have much to play with...  Would appreciate any opinions.

Nothing at all... I just took it for a drive to get it up to temperature, when I parked up I watched for 5 minutes and it doesn't seem to be happening any more.  I'm going to check it every 30 mins or so... Very curious as to what could have caused this!

Got a strange issue, wonder if someone has encountered this?

When I park the car and lock it, after about a minute both the puddle lights and the cab lights turn on for 5-10 seconds, this happens countinously, on and off for as long as you leave it.  I've checked all the doors and they are closed, the dash display clearly shows when any door is left open.

Only thing I can think of is water, I did hit a huge puddle earlier throwing water everywhere although it seemed fine right after and only seems to have started this evening.  I would of thought that any problems with water would be instant.

I'm really confused here and would appreciate any help

Thanks.

Thanks guys... £18.19 all in is pretty ridiculous for what it is although the car looks scruffy without.

Returned to my car yesterday to find that someone has pinched my cap which covers the lock on my drivers side door.  eBay only has them from the states for around $50!!!!  Anyone know a MUCH cheaper way of replacing this small piece of plastic?

Thanks

16 minutes ago, Mr Vlad said:

Hi Lee. Funny I've just seen this thread. Why funny? Well that Check VSC came up on my display coincidentally whilst I went over a sleeping police man across the road at an asda. Also at the same time my dash cam stopped working. I googled it when it was safe to pull over on how to clear it. When i got home I took the negative lead Off the battery for 15 seconds. Re attached and the fault display disappeared. 

I checked then the fuse connection on my hard wired dash cam (a nextbase 322gw). All fuses and connections were fine. Connected the dadh cam to my laptop and no joy. I had to reset the dash cam now all is well. 

I can only assume that whilst going over the sleeping policeman slowly mind something must have dislodged momentarily but enough to stun the dash cam and in turn weirdly the VSC pop up. 

Hope if you disconnect the neg lead from the battery for 15 seconds all will be well.

Hi Vlad

I just did the same, disconnected for a few minutes and the Check VSC has also disapeared.   I have a journey this evening so I'll see if the error remains clear or comes back.

Mine first appeared on the motorway this morning, prior to that, I'd just filled the tank with petrol so not sure what could have caused it!

Thanks for the tip though, lets hope things are good now 🙂

20 minutes ago, ColinBarber said:

That is the official description of P0420, but it can be triggered by multiple problems which the ECU or OBD tool cannot determine.

These are my fuel trim readings, not sure what I'm looking at though tbh, anything obvious stand out here?

https://linksharing.samsungcloud.com/wrGqa5NF4DRn