Delphius1

I'm not much of a caravan expert, but I've towed a few boats around on big trailers behind 4x4s before (not the RX I hasten to add). If the noseweight has been checked and is within the car's limits, My first instinct would be to double-check whatever you use to check the noseweight to make sure that's calibrated correctly, just in case you're reading the weight wrong. The other thing is if the caravan is a twin axle job, make sure the tow ball on the car and the tow hitch on the trailer are at a compatible height. If for some reason the tow ball is higher, then a twin axle trailer can exert more pressure on the towbar as the axles don't support the weight evenly. So there is a risk of overloading the tow hitch if that's the case. I'm not saying that's the case here, but I've seen a few mad nose-up trailers at slipways with the back end of the car almost dragging on the floor. The trailer's front axle with no weight on it and the back axle compressed trying to force the nose back down. If a twin wheel trailer isn't level then the trailer's own suspension will be adding forces to the towbar on the car that you don't want. Single axle trailers just pivot about the axle, so the noseweight tends to stay the same, there's no way the suspension can add forces to the towbar. If a single axle trailer is nose down and the suspension of the car compressed, then the noseweight is wrong (for whatever reason) or the car has issues supporting even moderate noseweights. If for instance the typical noseweight is around 70-100Kg that's the weight of an average person or two. The easy test is for a person to stand on the ball of the towbar. If the car's suspension compresses then the car has an issue. If it doesn't compress the same as with the trailer, there's an issue with the noseweight of the trailer. When you've got a couple of tons on the back you tend to make sure everything works because a fraction of that weight can cause serious suspension damage. If that all checks out, I'm at a loss as to why a trailer and tow hitch set up correctly would cause suspension damage on a car, unless it was run over a petty lumpy bit of tarmac.

I'm not much of a caravan expert, but I've towed a few boats around on big trailers behind 4x4s before (not the RX I hasten to add). If the noseweight has been checked and is within the car's limits, My first instinct would be to double-check whatever you use to check the noseweight to make sure that's calibrated correctly, just in case you're reading the weight wrong. The other thing is if the caravan is a twin axle job, make sure the tow ball on the car and the tow hitch on the trailer are at a compatible height. If for some reason the tow ball is higher, then a twin axle trailer can exert more pressure on the towbar as the axles don't support the weight evenly. So there is a risk of overloading the tow hitch if that's the case. I'm not saying that's the case here, but I've seen a few mad nose-up trailers at slipways with the back end of the car almost dragging on the floor. The trailer's front axle with no weight on it and the back axle compressed trying to force the nose back down. If a twin wheel trailer isn't level then the trailer's own suspension will be adding forces to the towbar on the car that you don't want. Single axle trailers just pivot about the axle, so the noseweight tends to stay the same, there's no way the suspension can add forces to the towbar. When you've got a couple of tons on the back you tend to make sure everything works because a fraction of that weight can cause serious suspension damage. If that all checks out, I'm at a loss as to why a trailer and tow hitch set up correctly would cause suspension damage on a car, unless it was run over a petty lumpy bit of tarmac.

I found that timing is everything. The point at which the car locaks and unlocks can have a bit of a dely. I wrote about it when I programmed my own keys. Here's the sequence I found worked: "Sit in car with drivers door closed Open drivers door. Key in ignition, key out of ignition, key in ignition, key out of ignition (don't turn the key, just insert it) Close drivers door, open drivers door, close drivers door, open drivers door, Key in ignition, key out of ignition, (again, just insert it, don't turn it) Close drivers door, open drivers door, close drivers door, open drivers door, Key in ignition, close drivers door, turn ignition to on (lights on dash), turn ignition off and remove key Central locking locks doors... wait for doors to unlock, Then Press lock & unlock buttons on key fob for a second, release, then press lock button Central locking should lock/unlock. Key is now programmed: open drivers door to cancel programming mode". The thing I missed was the timing of the lock/unlock after switching the ignition off. The doors locked, but I kept jumping the gun and pressed the fob keys before the doors had unlocked, which ruined the programming. Your car should at the very least get to the stage of locking/unlocking the doors even if the radio frequency of the remote locking part of the key fob is wrong. If it doesn't do that, you're not doing the first part right.

I was thinking the same. If you get seat covers, make sure they are the "burstable" type that have velcro flaps for the side airbags in the seats.

I'd assume that as the module isn't in the headliner, it will be switched off as default. You can switch it on, but nothing will probably happen because it isn't there. All the ultrasonics do is prevent someone getting into the cabin. And trigger the alarm when windows or sunroof are left open without disabling the unit. I don't think there's a great amount of integration, the unit just provides a trigger if activated. Actually, if you can switch it off in Techstream I might just make it my summer configuration change. 😄

Isn't the intrusion detection the ultrasonic sensors fitted to the roof by the dome lights? I think on cars without it Lexus fit a sunglass cubby. Those sensors are annoying because they trip the alarm if the windows are open. You have to press the button on the unit to disable the sensors on hot days if you want to crack the windows open a little with the car parked.

All European keys work on 433.92Mhz, near as dammit to 434. Depends on how many digits after the decimal point you're working to. 😉 That's the frequency they're licensed to work on. U.S. keys work on a different frequency, hence why if you're buying off Chinese sites, you have to make sure you specify the European version. Otherwise the key will be transmitting on a different frequency to the receiver in the car and they won't hear each other.

The P0037 code is an oxygen sensor code, but as the other Mark was saying, it may be a symptom, not a cause of the issue. That said, P0037 is the code for the oxygen sensor heater failure. That can be caused by something as simple as the sensor being unplugged. The other thing can be nibbled wiring by rodents, they do love to chew wires and the oxygen sensor wiring is right there under the car. Once you've eliminated the obvious reasons and also checked and confirmed the heater resistance in the sensor is not correct, then change the sensor . The P0037 will be the only code a simple reader will get out of the car. It really needs a good deep diagnosis with a proper code reader like Techstream to have a chance at finding the VSC issue. A simple OBD reader won't show VSC codes. VSC errors can be tricky to diagnose as there are a raft of sensors that can cause the light to be lit. Mismatched tyres causing differential ABS sensor speeds on the wheels, the gearbox speed sensor, the steering angle sensor, the yaw sensor, all are tied into the VSC. Luckily other systems use these sensors so if the speedo is reading correctly and the ABS light isn't lit, the fault points more to steering or yaw sensor, wiring to one or more sensor or the VSC module itself. But don't take my word as gospel, diagnosis is the only way to be sure. The VSC error could be tied to the vibration/hum, but not necessarily. Only a deep diagnosis will give you an indication if that's the case. Sorry to be vague, but diagnosis over the internet is about as accurate as reading runes, or staring into crystal balls. 🙂

You can get the groaning on any brake, it's not cleared by fitting any specific pad or discs. Generally it's something to do with the ease at which the pads grip the disc. If they don't grip properly or squarely on the discs, or in the pad carriers aren't cleaned, the spring clips are not working correctly then it can set up a vibration as the pad "skips" across the surface of the disc. I've done the brakes on my RX and to be honest the thing looked like it had been bathed in salt water. The spring clips that hold the pads in the carrier were seized in solid. It took a while to clean up the rust, fit new spring clips and also I had the issue where the paint on the aftermarket pads was too thick and caused the pads to stick in the spring clips. A few hours of cleaning and filing later, I had pads that could slide through the spring clips using easy hand pressure. I also renewed the slider pins so the caliper could move freely too. I doubt a garage would be so thorough. So there's a good chance the pads are binding a little bit and not pressing on the disc properly, setting up the vibration and causing the groaning noise. Especially when the pressure from the pedal isn't enough to resist the binding action of the pads.

Hi, I take it you mean the tail light bulbs. The brake lights are LED and don't normally need changing until the LEDs burn out. I know, I had to buy a new brake light LED module at over £60! The tail light bulb holders turn counter clockwise about 45 degrees on a bayonet type fitting to release. Small hands are an advantage. Edited to add: The brake lamp connector is just wired, the module isn't removable without removing the whole light unit so don't mess with the connector unless the brake lights have gone. Just swap the tail light bulbs if you need to.

It does look promising, but I bet it will be hellishly expensive. A sheet of that under the car with security type bolts flush to the surface would be the ultimate protection. A small paper of FARM (Forcible Attack Resistant Materials) is here: https://www.cpni.gov.uk/system/files/documents/8a/67/Project_FARM_Guidance_Doc_Materials_Spreadsheet_Manufacturers_V1.0.20160523.pdf Interesting reading, especially towards the end when they mention ceramic spheres in a resin matrix. Proteus is ceramic spheres encased in Aluminium I believe. But two sheets of steel with a ceramic sphere/resin composite in the centre could be a cheaper attack-resistant option.

It would be nice if there was more awareness in the media, because it seems to be one hell of a crime wave at the moment, especially in London. But owners of 4x4s like the RX need to be on guard at the moment, especially if they are driving into big cites and staying overnight. Of course it's not limited to just the RX. Cars like the RX, Honda CRV and other SUVs are high risk targets from what I'm hearing. I thought the main targets were hybrids like the RX because they are supposed to be less wearing on the cat, but it seems that even 20 year old non-hybrid cars are fair game. Can't say how much precious metal there is left in a cat that old. lol. On modern cars there are already cats in the engine bay as the "main" cat is in the manifold and then thanks to Euro standards there's a second cat further along the exhaust (that's why the RX has 3 cats: one per manifold and a third cat in the exhaust). It's the second cat on modern cars that is vulnerable. God help us in the thieves ever work out a way of nicking the manifold cats as well, the replacement cost will total the car.

I work in supplying car parts and the number of requests we are getting for replacement cats after theft is getting ridiculous. We only specialise in one make and model of car: The Mazda MX-5. Now, given the thing is only a Gnat's tadger away from the ground, you'd think it would be pretty immune to cat theft. After all there are easier pickings with 4x4s and their higher ground clearance. But no. We are getting at least two requests a week now. And those are the ones that telephone orders in to us, there may be more being ordered online we don't know about. For one make and model of car. A sportscar at that. I hate to think of the number of other easier target cars that are having cats stolen. So it appears to be a real problem. The other issue is that depending on the type, cat locks don't seem to be much of a deterrent. The ones that secure the cat to the car with a flexible steel cable don't seem to be a deterrent because if the thieves have an angle grinder that can cut through an exhaust pipe in a matter of seconds, a steel cable won't be much of a challenge. On sports cars, the old-style alarms with tilt switches seem to be the answer, so that the alarm will sound if the car is jacked up. Because you have to jack the car up to get at the cat. With higher 4x4s, I'm not sure what the answer is. Even large steel plates bolted to the underside of the car to shield the cat don't appear to be a deterrent as the thieves just angle-grind the heads off the mounting bolts. Countersunk mounting screws would help solve that, with a number of mounting points to dissuade thieves from cutting slots into the shield and attacking the cat again. Just thought I'd post what I'm seeing out there in the world at the moment. Something needs to be done about it, but I don't see it being talked about as it only seems prevalent in certain areas at the moment. In at least one case a customer has been hit twice. I'm thinking of wrapping my cat in razor wire. If they go for mine, I'm taking a few ounces of flesh in the process....

Godda Love Big Clive, he's on my YouTube subscription list. 🙂

I just wonder if the cruise control had inadvertently been engaged as a possible cause. But I'm not a fan of "throttle by wire" systems where there is no mechanical link between the pedal and the throttle plate. An electronic issue can command the throttle plate to do anything. But TBW systems are in virtually all cars now since the late 90's. Even more scary are the "brake by wire" systems where the brakes are commanded electronically. Not an issue until that one time the computer says no...

Herbie, the other useful addition is a solar panel with an OBD2 socket on it, so the solar panel is always charging the battery and keeping it topped up. The advantage of the OBD2 connector is so many cars have them these days and the connections are standard. So you can use the solar panel on any car. Depending on which car we are running at the time, the solar panel I made switches duty between my car and the wife's. It works seamlessly on my Lexus and her Hyundai. The panel just sits propped up on the dash inside the car. The panel is a 5w solar panel so it makes enough juice even behind the glass windscreen. Either car can be left as long as you like with the panel plugged in and still starts up when we need it. The other advantage is no trailing mains wires like a trickle charger and you don't have to wait around for a power pack to bring a dead battery up to voltage. The car starts first time because the battery is already charged! The only downside is the car does need to be in the daylight. But then cars in garages usually have access to power these days. 🙂 The only disadvantage I can see if trying to hook up a charger via the OBD2 is the wiring isn't specced to take much in the way of current. If the flat battery demands too much current from the charger pack then you could fry the 12v lead to the OBD2 socket. At least the solar panel is only trickle charging.

I use Meguiars Ultimate compound and a microfibre pad to polish mine (with a bit of elbow grease, but nothing excessive), followed by a protective layer of wax. Considering when I started they had that yellow haze over them. After a couple of applications now I get this result: The beam pattern is back as the lens doesn't diffuse the light. Ultimate compound is great for bringing up flat paintwork as well. No connection, just a happy user of Meguiars products. Ultimate compound gets used a lot by American YouTubers and their detailing videos. It seems to work pretty well in most applications. The next task I'm going to set it is to polish a GRP hull. lol.

Is it coming from the steering column? Does it make the noise if you try and adjust the steering wheel manually? Could be the steering wheel adjustment motor trying to move the steering wheel in/out with worn gears.

Maybe a list of compatible Toyota parts is something that could work out to be worthwhile. I know I got an LED brake light unit from my local Toyota garage after I'd given them the part number. Saved me a lengthy trip to the Lexus dealer and saved a bit of cash too.

The cat under the car is the second cat in the exhaust stream as the car also has cats in each of the two exhaust manifolds. The oxygen sensors are either side of the first cat(s) and the engine management only monitors the efficiency of that cat. The second cat is just there to mop up emissions and running without it won't affect the engine management. If it's happening on a regular basis and the thieves seem determined enough and have enough time to cut through a steel sheet to get to your cat, maybe get some flanges welded onto what's left of the exhaust. Then you can get a cat and a decat pipe to fit between the flanges so you can easily swap between the two. You can run with the decat normally and if the thieves take a look under the car they will see a decat and leave you alone. You can get generic cats with a flange at each end. All you need is to get one and the flanges to match your exhaust diameter. Then you get someone to weld the flanges to the exhaust on the car to suit the cat and then weld up a decat. Generally speaking, most cars with two cats will pass the emissions at MOT time with just the one cat, but technically you need all the cats in line in the exhaust. Reading the letter of the MOT tests the tester has to look for the existence of the correct number of cats. But if you find an MOT tester that isn't a stickler for the letter of the test and is happy to pass a car that passes emissions.... If you do need the cat fitted for MOT time you can just bolt the cat in for a day, get the car tested and then swap back to a decat pipe for the other 364 days of the year. 😁

My personal opinion is the black wheel is a bit overdone now and I'm not a fan. But they doo hide brake dust quite well until the residue builds up to the thick brown level.

My first trip to London on my own as a teenager (an Early Computer Games Fair) was to Olympia and I was fascinated to walk past the Bristol showrooms. I ended up working in Hammersmith not far away, so passed it regularly. Nice cars, but they always struck me as a bit dated. Always behind the curve style-wise. I think I only ever saw customers in that showroom once. Always made me wonder how they afforded the rent in Kensington if they didn't sell anything.

I do love this video. The guys go driving round the posh parts of London looking for old money cars, expecting old Rollers, Bentleys and the like, maybe the odd Ferrari or something even more rare and exotic. But they keep seeing Lexus after Lexus. Whilst driving..... a Lexus. That to me says a lot.

Random misfires can be hard to pinpoint and may actually be the car working as normal, which just confuses the issue.If the engine management light was illuminated you'll have codes stored in the ECU. The engine is coil on plug, so you'll have 6 coil packs, not just one coil pack. If one misfires, the engine management is intelligent to know which cylinder is misfiring, so you should get a misfire code to a specific cylinder. That's why you mover the coil packs around to see if the misfire moves with a coil pack. But you should get a code for a cylinder misfire on the code reader. However, if you have an issue that trips the traction control into working, then that can give you symptoms like a misfire and won't give you a code because it's the engine management cutting the spark deliberately. Basically if the sensors think a wheel is skidding then it will cut the spark to cut power. A usual culprit for that is changing a single tyre and having a wheel rotate at a different speed, or faulty ABS, VSC or steering sensors.

I'd check either if the bearings at the top of the front strut are seizing or if the suspension bushes have worn and changed the steering geometry. The steering rack itself could be faulty as well. Needs investigation unfortunately.