ajchetcuti
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Everything posted by ajchetcuti
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Definitely interesting answers. Might answer why it took two LEDs no problem then the third blew it. Between the three there was a mix of low current then a spike. I've changed the ignition one on my other LS as the bulbs do go with age and it's great as an LED. The footwell lighting I will keep stock. Lesson learnt but all from a bulb wow! Yes you have to try LED both ways if it doesn't light as not always correct first time. If it's the wrong way around it won't even draw a current though? Maybe one was just faulty and blew it and it can actually handle LED, not something I want to test again though. I've done this on many cars before with no issue for a brighter more useful light. Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
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I called them and turns out it needs RK not BL on the end which means the blade will come precut for the vehicle. 50946 for one key. 50947 for two keys and 50948 for three keys. They come with the chip so Longo recommended buying a multi set so the chip and key set doesn't need buying again in the future. They can't supply without proof of ownership so might have to get Lexus Chester to order it on my behalf through the network. Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
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Saved the day again Steve. I'll have a go at taking it out ASAP. Honestly I thought it was a simple job to swap bulbs. I changed to LEDs in many of my cars before this with no issue! I guess it's not worth changing them in an LS or is there a way around it? The ignition one seems fine as I've done that in the other LS I have as it wasn't working at all. Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
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Please don't change anything to LED. I have just tried to do this and blew something. Now I have no footwell lights, ignition lights or courtesy light on door opening. Awaiting some advice on how to fix as I can't find a fuse blown anywhere... I'm so annoyed as it actually looked great, 2 bulbs worked and the 3rd one freaked it out. Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
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Care to help me with some head scratching please? When I purchased my LS it came with the valet key and the skeleton key. I've had a master key cut from the skeleton key onto a new blade from the USA so that I can get into the boot without needing both keys. The remote key was lost sometime in it's 27 years. Maybe when the previous owner passed away. I soon figured out that the ignition barrel does not link to the immobiliser? You can start the car with the valet key and the metal blade from the skeleton key. Neither has a chip. So I'm thinking here that the alarm and immobiliser only arm from the physical action of the key in the door turning? The light comes on at this point. When it comes to the remote key, does the remote key arm the immobiliser or is it again the action of the key locking the door which does this? I've recently purchased another 1993 LS for some bits I wanted. Low and behold it came with the remote key (Most seem to be missing it or the system has failed). I replaced the battery and it works!! I'm thinking now, how do I incorporate this key into my system? Do I need to swap the control unit the key talks to between the cars and hey presto? As the immobiliser seems independent. Then swap the blade in the key. Do I need to swap all the locks, ignition barrel and control unit over to make it work? Can I just recode my current unit to the key I now have and swap the blade with one for my locks as there is no chip at work? Seems several possible ways and wondered if you lot have any previous experience or ideas? I'm on the long road to making my car perfect and to reinstate the factory locking would be great! It's a neat feature with the beep and the control dial for volume and I'd like to restore the functionality! Also on a side note. The donor car has an issue where opening the passenger door with the key sets the alarm off. There's an invoice regarding work on the lock and I'm wondering if they maybe wired it up wrong? Seems a bit odd when the driver's door works fine and does open and unlock the passenger door. It also unlocks remotely. Thanks! Alexander. [emoji4] Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
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I doubt they would do a while you wait, are you not happy to ship it? I dropped mine off and they shipped it back. The technicians there can do the work no problem. It's the office staff that act like they can't from what the system tells them and their guarantee policy. 3 calls and me almost begging and they did the work. So many places I tried just said no immediately without even asking for it to be sent. So at least they were a step further there. I'd be tempted to call and ask them to talk to a technician. You can even have my order number if you want, as they can see they have done similar work. 1570805179280. Also Steve on here can rebuild them, chances are he'll comment on the thread if he's happy to help. He did on mine but I'd already sent it off before he was able to look at it. Wildcard is Bill in the states from LS Cowboys, he can do the repairs but it will take a while and the price is similar. https://m.facebook.com/pg/LScowboyLS/reviews/ Alex. Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
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Hi, I had mine rebuilt last month by ECU Testing in Derbyshire. Initially they didn't want to look at it because they didn't have a test rig for the model. I persuaded them that if they are the experts then they need to just open the ECU and look at it properly and they will see that needs to be done. Sure enough they opened it and saw dead capacitors. They swapped all the capacitors out for new ones (made especially for them so they know the quality and can guarantee the work). Now my car which didn't drive properly is back to full health! Even after saying they wouldn't because of the test rig situation they still put a lifetime guarantee on the work. Hope this helps! Cost was £250. www.ecutesting.com Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk