Jayw13702

Well it’s not the head gasket, tests have proved that’s still good. the water pump was replaced about 50k ago and is still dry do it’s a bit of a mystery as to why there was coolant loss. we’ve put the lower fuel consumption down to the colder weather and E10 as well as changing the wheel size to 17’s. Now that’s it’s warmed up a bit the mpg has gone back to mid 40’s

No mayo, just water loss and no apparent leaks either. going to do a sniff test today to see if it is the case and take it from there it is a pain when something like this happens, I’ve had 4 trouble free, high mileage years so can’t complain

So my intergalactic IS300h looks to be faltering a bit. we appear to be losing about 500ml of coolant over about 250/300 miles, fuel consumption is down to late 30’s (fill up to fill up) and performance is a bit lacking. going to do a sniff test on the engine this week but wondered if anyone had any experience of doing a head gasket on one of these engines? Are there any pitfalls/quirks? if it is the HG then I can’t complain, this will be the first time this engine has ever been opened up since it was built, and it’s now done 245,000 miles

Not within a close enough range to confuse the system

I use Falkens, always given good economy at a reasonable price whilst still being reasonably quiet

I have a 2013 IS300h that has just had a replacement set of wheels, at the same time I replaced the TPMS sensors. Plugged the tech stream in and went through the TPMS registration wizard. Programmed all the TMPS codes and finished the wizard, at that point I get the following error message. "ID registration failed due to communication error with the ECU whilst in initialisation mode" Ive been into the live data and it tells me initialisation was complete but yet it still gives the same message. The TPMS are the correct frequency, and are the right ones for the car but no matter what I do I cannot get the sensors to register. any ideas?

OMG!!! I first received help from John when I was on the PriusChat forums, like here John was a great help and a massive wealth of knowledge. He has helped me with some Lexus issues as well and I for one will miss his knowledge and input. i've only just seen this hence the somewhat late comment. May he rest in piece

Now just completed 230,000 miles and still going well. Over the Christmas period it will need a new rear wheel bearing, some rear pads and a chance to get the car up on ramps and give it a good underbody clean. I treated the car to some IS220 wheels, always liked the look of them, picked them up for an absolute steal, had them powder coated and stuck some 225/45x17 tyres on them and am pleased with the result....

I change mine every 60k, I generally use a good quality branded oil and always use a new set of washers for the drain plug and filler plug

I love the silence of the IS, when pulling away all I can here is the whine of the transmission. I find the silence quite relaxing, in comparison to my wife's BMW diesel which I feel is a rattly noisy tank. I love the sound of a nice exhaust note, my weekend toy is (in imho) the best sounding V6 engine in the world and is a total contrast to the IS

It’s a set of flaps that sit behind the lower grille, it opens and closes to regulate the engine temperature, aids the A/C and also help aerodynamics

for the last week I have been getting this message repeatedly. a reset on techstream will ensure the error goes away for the day but the following morning its back. Today was the first chance I have had to have a look, I knew that the bumper would have to come off and my suspicion was the shutter motor had water ingress, however techstream was still able to talk to the actuator so this left me puzzled. a couple of hours later and the bumper is off, the grille shutter system is held on with 4x10mm bolts. All the electrical connections had power when required so the next stage was to strip the motor off the shutter frame and have a look inside it. Not the easiest thing to do as the motor is heat sealed together, most likely to stop water getting in, once I had is all apart I could tell the PCB was good, the motor worked freely and all the gears moved but really needed re-greasing. The gears connected to a metal shaft that went through two seals and connected to the grille shutters, these were seized on one side so whilst the motor was trying to move the shutters it just couldn't. 30 minutes later the shaft is free from the actuator case, its covered in rust and has expanded and because of this won't rotate, having cleaned up the shaft, greased all the gears and put it back together there is no error message on the dash and when connected to techstream the actuator moves the flaps as it should. I know that with 225,000 miles on it things like this are going to start giving issues, Lexus wanted 325+vat for the actuator so with that in mind I figured that I had nothing to lose in stripping it and trying it make it work again.

I am really struggling with this..... I am not a great fan of the ES. Up until recently I was thinking of a GS, however their price has stalled and there doesn't seem to be many of them out there so seeing as I only have a few years unit I retire from the taxi trade there's a good chance that we will see 300,000 plus miles

a lot of manufacturers state that transmission oil should never be changed. Yes you will always get residual mixture of old and new, the fluid in the external lines and cooler being the majority that's left behind. By replacing most of it I would guess/hope that the overall quality of the new oil is better than the oil that's just been removed.

I do it every 60k now, it was last done at 160,000, which was only about 15 months ago 😂

mines now sat at 216500 and still rocking along. Currently racking up about 300 miles a day during the week and very little during the weekend as it has a well deserved rest next service will be in a few weeks and that will include transmission and back axle fluids as well as inverter fluid by the end of the year we should see close to 230000on the clock

Thank you, it’s all about taking the time to figure out if things will work. On and off I’ve been looking at this upgrade for about 12 months now, it all fell lucky when I discovered the wiring looms and then the complete interior.

I believe it’s to stop things from entering into the passenger compartment, whilst it’s an X shape it covers a good 80% of the aperture. you can’t see the brace as it’s covered by carpet in the boot

In order to get at the condenser you need to remove the radiator fan assembly and radiator, or at the very least be able to move it out of the way. not a difficult job, I would budget on being charged 2-3 hours worth of labour plus parts and regas

It is common for the rear calliper sliders to seize, you may find that replacing the sliders will cure the problem. As for the squeal, it could be the pads as there is a wear shim that hits the disc and squeals when the pads wear to a certain point. Handbrake shoes? mine have done 200,000 miles and still have plenty of meat on them, unless your riding the handbrake whilst the car is moving there isn't much chance of them wearing

The car now sports a complete set of F-sport seats. the SE seats were very comfortable but the F-sport ones are so much nicer, especially with the lumbar adjustment as well. The front seats were literally plug and play, the full thread on it: Next jobs: Complete interior strip out to replace carpets

The front seats were plug and play, the rears were a little different................ The standard seats in a SE are solid one piece back, the F-sport seats are split rear seat. because the stitch pattern is different between the SE seats and F-sport I had to put the rear seats in if I were to keep everything looking uniform. In order to change the rear seat from a solid to a split rear seat you need the following: Both parts of the split rear seats Rear seat edges Seat base LHS seat buckle Both seat back catches All the plastic trim that sits behind the split seat backs. Rear parcel shelf (even this is different) As many bolts as you can remove from the donor car The easiest way of doing this is to clear out the interior of the old parts. When I first looked to see if this was possible I couldn't see any bolt holes for the spilt seat brackets. Lexus cover any unused boltholes with black sticky tables that are about the size of a £2 coin. Having figured out where the brackets should sit it was easy to find the threaded holes. The rear parcel shelf needs changing as the SE spec cars have the rear seat belt mounted on the rear parcel shelf, the cars with split seats have the belt in the seat itself. Also the LHS seat buckle needs to be changed as the SE one is part of the central seat belt assembly where the other one is a solo part. Getting the rear parcel shelf requires both of the C pillar trims removing as they lock the parcel shelf into place, also the high level brake light needs separating from the parcel shelf and disconnecting Removing the SE rear seat back reveals a metal X bracket that's bolted to the body and acts as brace to stop anything moving from the boot to the passenger compartment. the split rear seats are metal backed and so do this automatically. The bracket needs to be removed. Still working inside the car all the plastic trim that sits around the back seat aperture needs to be fitted, the split rear seats can now be fitted, once they are in then the seat edges can be fitted as well and the seat bas can go in as well. Moving into the boot, the SE boot carpet covers the seat back and this needs to be trimmed down so that it sits within the split seat trim panel, a good craft knife will cut the carpet down to size. It took me a few hours to do, with the exception of some trim removal tools there was nothing else out of the ordinary needed. its one of those jobs that only easy if you have all the parts, it anything is missing it just won't work

That depends on how much you are willing to pay. there are companies out there who make an add on that will allow you to run apple carplay/ android auto

6 months on and it’s been a dream to drive again. the link to my YouTube vid on how to replace the battery recent jobs include front crankshaft oil seal. radiator flush invertor fluid change water pump change (200k on its original water pump!!) fan belt change now it’s sat on 205,000 miles, still going well and just about to have an interior upgrade

WHAT!!!!! I would argue totally the opposite, a modern Lexus IS the definition of reliability. my 300h did 180,000 miles before giving any hint of trouble, that’s 12 years worth of motoring in 5 years. you had bad luck, your experience is not typical of Lexus or Toyota hybrids