Ok so looking at this:
http://japan.toylexparts.com/harrier/521120/acu30w-awpgk/350w/001/4/8602/861889b
It looks like there are component speakers in the front and co-axials in the rear doors. Am I reading that right?
It's a 2006 Harrier, same body as the RX-300. Not a hybrid. Door speakers are probably the same but I'd like to be sure before ordering them, I guess taking the door cards off is probably a good suggestion, thanks!
Can anyone tell me what speaker sizes I need for the door cards on a 2006 harrier? Also any tips or links to youtube videos for swapping them out would be most appreciated.
I don’t suppose you know how to drop the spare wheel on a harrier? I’ve got an appointment for a new tyre for it but no idea how to lower it. Can’t see anything obvious under the boot liner where the tools are.
https://jpnz.co.nz/product/toyota-harrier-2/
£50 for a Harrier manual professionally translated into english (actually £30 plus £20 shipping from NZ). Really tempted but not sure it'll tell me anything that I can't get from the RX manual that came with the car. I have noticed some subtle differences though. Hrmm.
So why is it defaulting to 3 by itself? That’s what I still don’t understand. If I move it from auto to S surely the default should be to use all the gears unless I tell it otherwise?
I'm confused. Why would it be set that way when it was driving in full auto mode and then switched to S mode? In full auto it should surely use all the gears.. otherwise what's the point in having them? If it's in S-mode which is meant to be manual, still it makes no sense. Why would it not use higher than 3rd? What's it going to do if I take it to the redline in 3rd on that setting? cut the engine?
If I drive in S mode I can control the gears as you'd expect. If I leave it in D and then come to a stop, flip the lever over to S it usually indicates 3 but when I move off the car doesn't seem to struggle.
What's going on? It can't be pulling away in 3rd
Didn't quite work out initially but I went to see the guy today and got a generic VW-style key programmed to the car. Looks a bit different to a Lexus key but it works fine so will do as a backup and much cheaper than the dealer.
Usually it’s when i stop and go to get the shopping or my dog out of the back. I pull the handle every time before realising it’s locked. or used to anyway it’s fixed now :)
It’s annoying having to unlock the doors when you stop, i always forget. Also my car isn’t worth enough to worry too much about carjackers, if i drive through central london i always lock the doors but anywhere else.. meh. I did notice there was an option to have the doors unlock when you select park but i’d rather it just left them alone.
Finally got a working techstream cable and disabled that annoying driveaway locking! Also managed to turn off the lock/unlock beeps but then decided I actually prefer them :D
So I recently got a new shell and cut key blade from the awesome ebay seller who cuts to code/picture but I’d like to have a spare remote key.
My car is a 2006 harrier, I found this:
http://japan.toylexparts.com/harrier/521120/acu30w-awpgk/350w/001/3/6712/674241c
http://japan.toylexparts.com/harrier/521120/acu30w-awpgk/350w/001/3/6712/674241c/89071B
so it seems the transmitter module in the key has its own part# - 8907148140. So my plan is to just buy one of those from the dealer, get another shell and cut key from the ebay wizard and program it myself. It looks like the immobiliser chip can be programmed easy enough with techstream and the remote module is just a ritual with opening doors etc.
Is there any reason this won’t work? Online pricing for the module suggests around £125 whereas a full key I was quoted over £200 for.
I’m not a transmission expert. How many miles are on it and has it ever been serviced? I think RX of that generation are known for having weak transmissions.
If a reputable garage has said it may just be sensors then I’d be inclined to take their advice as I suspect sensors are going to be much cheaper than most other things that you might need to do to fix a transmission. In any case if a sensor is bad it may show up in techstream. If it’s never been serviced then you probably want to do that at the same time.
Here is some good information about transmission issues: http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/355
You can also email the guy who runs that website, he's very knowledgable about transmissions and happily answers questions for free:
http://www.agcoauto.com/content/contact
I just called the garage, they said they used the Toyota Red stuff that the car calls for and that they always check what each car requires. So that's good. The flush they said is something that 9/10 cleans the cooling system out, so I guess I'll trust them on that.
I was under the impression that nothing should go into the system other than antifreeze and distilled water, and that if a garage uses the word "flush" you can basically prefix it with the word "wallet".
No, there are three items:
Coolant flush - 13.99
Antifreeze - 18.00
Labour for drain/refill/bleeding the coolant system - 78
The labour is indicated separately.
I dropped my car off for a change of the power steering fluid and the coolant. All done and on the invoice there is a "cooling system flush" listed at 13.99+vat which presumably is some kind of cleaning chemical. Should I be concerned that they've put something into the cooling system other than antifreeze and distilled water?