m4rkw

I would take the car to a trusted mechanic and ask them to diagnose the problem. Could be a bunch of things, lift pump, electrical gremlin, low compression.. you'll run out of money before you run out of guesses. I'd also ask for a refund from the dealer that replaced the EGR as it seems that wasn't necessary and you're well within your rights to request your money back.

Overpriced compared to who? Is there another high street retailer with a similar range of products at lower prices or are you comparing them to amazon and ebay? Companies with a physical high street presence obviously can't compete with the likes of amazon on price alone. Debenhams just went into administration today, it's likely only a matter of time before amazon destroys halfords too. I don't have a lot of faith in our government implementing policy changes to resolve this, although they do sometimes witter on about it in the commons. Halfords is damn handy when you need something quickly, it'll be a real shame if it goes away. I think it's worth paying the small premium to buy from them for this reason alone.

Yeah 85L underside tank seems like the way to go if it'll fit.

I am considering an LPG conversion for my Harrier, one of the main obstacles is the spare wheel as I'd want to use that space for the tank. Does anyone know of an aftermarket product for carrying the spare on the back door, landrover-style?

Sounds like it might be an exhaust leak? Does it do it if you rev at an idle? If so you could have someone rev it and see if you can feel something escaping from somewhere, be careful not to burn yourself.

Oil changed professionally doesn't damage the environment, it's recycled into heating oil. I don't trust manufacturer service intervals because they clearly don't have my best interests at heart. It's to their advantage to have lower on-paper maintenance costs because that's a major consideration factor when people buy cars. And they also have a huge incentive for that car *not* to last 150k miles because then they can sell you another one. Coolant changes should be based on time not miles because the acidification of the coolant happens over time. If you really wait 100k miles to change your coolant for the first time I wish you luck but no way I'd take that risk with a car I care about. A coolant change with regular Toyota coolant cost me about £100 and will go 3 years, so at £33.33/year it's pretty cheap insurance. Many manufacturers don't list service intervals for their transmissions and will tell you they're "sealed for life". They aren't technically lying, because when that fluid's all burnt up and the seals deteriorate that's the life of your transmission done 😉 The question is do you want that to be 120k miles or 320k miles? =P Maybe you won't keep the car that long so who cares, but I plan to drive mine for a long time.

What? He's listed three things there, all of which I would change well before 100k miles if you're planning to keep the car long term.

It might be a feature to prolong the life of the transmission.

Hey congrats, I've been looking enviously as those cars on ebay recently and wish I could get one! Unfortunately with the amount of stuff we frequently need to haul around they just aren't practical. I'm hoping when my wife's been driving for a year or two she might start coveting my RX and then I can get one hehe. I don't know what this sound could be but perhaps posting a video might help others diagnose it for you?

Does the manual say when it's meant to come on? Assuming you get around 30mpg that would equate to about 90 miles left, which isn't inconceivable I guess but I think they'd likely set the threshold lower. A quick google suggests others see the same so perhaps this is normal. If so this is a good thing in my opinion - 14L left is still probably enough not to cause damage to the fuel pump so as long as you refill when the light comes on you should be good. If it was half that or lower I wouldn't want to let the light come on.

Shouldn't happen. Motorway miles are the easiest miles for an engine. The oil has to be going somewhere, if it's not leaking somewhere then it's getting past the piston rings or somewhere else and getting burned. Many manufacturers these days list silly tolerance levels for oil burning, like up to 1L in 600 miles or something silly, which is considered "acceptable" (for them, obviously not for the poor soul who bought the car).

130k a year! That's an average of over 350 miles a day. No wonder he can go for crazy long intervals, that's perfect operating conditions for an engine.

Can you link me to some data on that?

Part numbers here: http://europe.toylexparts.com/lexus/431230/ucf30r-aeagkw/0/004/1/1107/111803b

That's true, but the oil is likely to be dirtier in an engine that isn't run very much as opposed to cleaner. I don't know how often hybrids run their engines though, maybe the charging duty cycle is enough to keep them hot enough to condition the oil. Mileage is not a good indicator of when you should change your oil anyway, it really depends how the car was driven. Some very good info on oil change intervals here: http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/291

I don't claim to know a lot about hybrids, and my car isn't one, but this doesn't seem to make a lot of sense to me. No engine is "stressed" when it's running under normal conditions, and oil is not well preserved in an engine when it isn't running, quite the opposite. Moisture builds up in the crankcase and only gets vented off through the CCV when the engine is run up to temperature for a period of time. This is why engines with an "oil quality sensor" (which I also don't trust) generally indicate a longer interval in miles the more the car is driven, and why if a car is barely driven at all you should still probably change the oil every 6 months. Motorway miles are really good on the engine, it's pretty much ideal conditions, so if you change your oil and then put 5k motorway miles on it in a short space of time with 100+ mile trips then your oil will likely look brand new when you look at the dipstick. Maybe there's something else about hybrids that I don't know that changes this equation but I'm struggling to imagine how. Maybe it deliberately runs it up to temperature and then duty cycles it to keep it there? Seems a bit of a stretch given that the main goal of those systems is better fuel mileage and lower emissions. The manufacturer really doesn't care if the car makes it past 100k miles as long as it makes it out of the warranty period. In any case you'll never save enough money on oil changes to even begin to pay for a major engine repair. I've heard from a garage owner a year or two ago that the number of 2008+ cars from companies like BMW and Audi coming in with <100k miles on them needing a new engine is "phenomenal" and he was convinced it was because of the manufacturer's extended oil change intervals.

Were the O2 sensors replaced with genuine or aftermarket parts?

I don't mean fully discharge - some cycling is necessary to prolong their life. If you're going to store it, keeping it around 40% is ideal but then that obviously isn't practical for a jump-starter. source: https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries

You’re not wrong, I decided it was worth the premium to not have to deal with trying to work out what was going to be good from amazon.

Well I mean, if it's a lease or on PCP and you'll be trading it in in a few years then I wouldn't worry about it. But if you want it to run longer than the warranty period I would definitely start changing the oil more frequently than that. 18k is insane.

10k is still way too long imo.

Original engine, it was never opened.

I reckon my 2006 Harrier should do pretty well. Very few toys to break, smaller engine that's practically bulletproof, no air suspension. I'm still paying off the credit card debt from owning a BMW E39 with a big V8 in it. Sticking with Toyota forever now!

I know a mechanic who advises against such things. The OBD socket isn't designed to have something permanently connected to it, and on some cars this can cause problems. That said the makers of these devices are still in business so I would hazard a guess that enough people are able to use them without a problem.

I have this one: https://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/garage-equipment/battery-chargers-jump-starters/halfords-lithium-jump-starter-up-to-3l Used it a few times and it works great. They're a bit of a minefield on amazon because it's flooded with cheap chinese stuff and fake reviews so it's hard to really know what's good. Also bear in mind the lithium battery will degrade over time, especially if it isn't periodically discharged and charged.