m4rkw

The light board on the halfords website says it “plugs into the existing light socket”.. is this a standard feature on our cars or does it need to be wired in?

Hello glorious hivemind I am going to france soon. Have a rear-mounted bike carrier from the Halfords which will have 3 bikes on it. The bike wheels will be in front of the car's lights, so obviously some light will shine through the spokes but do I need a light board or not? Anyone know what the requirements are in the UK and more specifically in France? Don't really fancy getting pulled over by the Gendarmes. Ta Mark

How long did you wait? Maybe the source of the interference hadn't powered up

Sounds like good news, definitely better than a broken module!

Do you have techstream? Maybe there are some codes logged. BCM would seem a likely target.

Or switch off all electronics in the house, leave any other electronics in your pockets indoors far from the car, take one key fob at a time outside and test it. Maybe I could write for Tommy Cooper after all 😉

You have two cars both doing this? is it possible there's some source of interference nearby that's causing it to not work? Could you maybe move the car somewhere else and see if it starts working?

I think that's the same process, mine just has a little more detail 🙂

I remember when water got into the fusebox of an old beemer I used to have the electrics went crazy. Not sure if it's been raining recently where you are but that might be worth a look.

Maybe get a mobile auto electrician out to have a look at it?

Actually thinking about it, the programming sequence is unlikely to help if turning the key in the ignition doesn't silence the alarm. So if I understand you correctly the engine starts but the alarm still sounds? That is odd indeed. The immobiliser chip is being recognised by the ignition system but not the alarm system.

@ShahidC see my post on the other key fob thread, might help you too.

Ask toyota it's their little dance haha

This is probably unlikely to help anyone else but what the hell. I'm going on a couple of very long road trips this year and wanted to replace my headlight bulbs before going with Osram Ultra Life so I don't have to worry about the bulbs going out. The indicator and high beams are easy enough just like other toyotas, just turn the socket and pull them out. The regular headlights however are a different matter as you can see in the attached photos. There's a big grey plastic circle thing which forms a seal with the headlight assembly and it was damn hard to undo. At first it seemed like it wouldn't budge and i was putting enough pressure on it that I was worried the plastic tabs would snap, but the trick is to put something in the notch at the top and then just keep pressure on it. There's a rubber seal around it which adds a lot of resistance and makes it turn very slowly. Once off you can reach in and twist the bulb out of its socket as normal. Remember to always wear gloves when handling halogen bulbs as the oil from your fingers can cause hot spots which can shorten their life.

Don't really know who that is, but no it was posted on another forum somewhere and I copied it and kept it in my car folder because it's useful to know 🙂

Have you tried reprogramming it? Instructions: Begin with: The driver's door open and unlocked. Key out of the ignition. 1. Insert and remove the key from the ignition switch 2 times within 5 seconds. NOTE: Steps 2 and 3 should be performed within 40 seconds. 2. Close and open driver's door TWICE. 3. Insert the key into the ignition and remove it. NOTE: Steps 4 - 6 should be performed within 40 seconds. 4. Close and open the driver's door twice. 5. Insert the key into the ignition. 6. Close the door. NOTE: Steps 5 and 6 should be reversed for the following models ONLY (close door first, then insert key into ignition): 2000 - 2005 Celica 2001 - 2003 Prius 2001 - 2005 ECHO 2001 - 2005 RAV4 2003 - 2004 Avalon 7. Turn the ignition switch from "Lock" to "On" and back to "Lock" at about 1 second intervals to select the desired mode: 1 time for ADD mode. 2 times for REWRITE mode. 3 times for CONFIRMATION mode. 5 times for PROHIBITION mode. 8. Remove the key from the ignition. 9. To confirm your mode selection, the power locks will now cycle "lock" to "unlock" a number of times corresponding to your key cycles in step 7. NOTE: If Confirmation or Prohibition modes have been selected, opening the door will complete the procedure. 10. For Add or Rewrite modes do the following within 40 seconds of Door Procedure Lock confirmation: A. Press both car transmitter Lock and Unlock buttons simultaneously between 1 and 1.5 seconds and release. B. Within 3 seconds of step A, press the transmitter Lock button for more than 1 second and release. If the keyless entry remote transmitter has been successfully programmed, the power locks will cycle "lock" to "unlock" once at this time. If there are problems with the remote transmitter or the procedure up to this point, the locks will cycle twice. If this occurs, verify that you have received the correct transmitter, and then repeat the above procedure. C. If multiple remotes are to be reprogrammed, repeat steps A and B. 11. Open the driver's door to conclude programming mode.

I tried pushing it fairly hard but it didn't budge, was a bit scared to push harder as I might snap the plastic cover off! Maybe harriers are a different process

How the hell do you replace the side indicator bulbs? I cant see any obvious way to get those off. Also the rear bulbs are such a pain to change, I'm almost tempted to just pay halfords to do it 😕

Some years ago I put a coilover set on a BMW I had and it completely destroyed the ride, I went back to the garage that fitted it and thankfully they still had my old knackered shocks which were still better than the brand new aftermarket junk. Never again, always OEM.

I'd want to know exactly how they're doing the flush, from what I've heard the usual process is they attach to the cooler lines and cycle the fluid in and out through that with the transmission running. A lot of the clean fluid going in comes straight back out the other side, so you end up replacing far less fluid than a normal drain/fill would, but I'd be interested to know if they're doing something different. I'd also want to know how they could ensure that there wasn't any fluid of another type left in the machine before the process was started.

Ask if it's ever been serviced. Flushes are not generally recommended, at 90k it should have been serviced at least once.

Also the number it shows doesn't actually mean the currently selected gear, it's a limit. If it says 4 then it won't go above 4th gear (unless you hit the redline). By default the limit is 4th, this is so that if you're travelling up a hill you can pop it over into S mode and keep it in 4th to help it up the hill and not have it shifting up and down a lot. Same for descending steep hills if you want more engine braking.

I may do, I'm just a bit paranoid about messing with anything near the socket as if that stops working it's not good.

Yeah I know it's on the OBD2 socket, I don't want to leave something plugged into that though. Will tap into the lines somewhere away from the socket. Thanks though!

I found a wiring diagram for the RX-300 here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=125457IRXfUsJ4hmtxdxMH0tmHqzYHvhD don't know how applicable it is for a harrier but in any case I don't see CANL/CANH on it. I guess I could trace them back from the OBD2 socket