m4rkw

I bought mine at 77k, now just shy of 100k. Control arms and an anti-rollbar link were the only real repair, everything else has been maintenance.

Turns out our cars do have a charcoal canister. http://japan.toylexparts.com/harrier/521120/acu30w-awpgk/235w/001/3/7701/771281e/77740

If it was serviced at the main dealer then they may well have a record of it. However transmission servicing isn’t normally included on the maintenance schedule. Manufacturer’s claim they are “sealed for life”, which is technically true - once the fluid’s burned up that’s the end of its life!

Interesting, maybe this is a bad idea then. I called roofbox.co.uk to ask if the Thule rails would go on an RX with a sunroof and they said yes but the weight should be limited to 60kg. I shall call them again next and clarify that the sunroof is actually a panoramic roof and ask if that makes a difference, and whether they would warrant that it wouldn't crack the glass.

No idea sorry. I would probably just take the car to a garage and say "pulls left, please fix".

Yeah i’ve changed my mind again, going to return it and order one from bootliners-uk.com, hopefully that will fit properly.

I'm far from an expert but I would guess unlikely. A common sign of a sticking caliper is more brake dust on the side that's sticking.

You could try pulling the battery or the HVAC fuse for 20mins or so, that might reset the system and cause it to re-learn where the open and close positions of the doors are. Be aware though that pulling the battery may have other effects on a car that new, I suspect it may not be recommended.

If the transmission fluid hasn't been changed you'll probably want to do that, it's well past due at 150k. The vent issue is possibly a failed servo somewhere in the dash, they control doors that direct air to the vents.

I think that's what normally happens when the camber of the road makes the vehicle turn slightly left no? Have you tested it on a completely flat road?

@Vlady https://www.bremboparts.com/europe/en/catalogue/lexus-gs-l1-450h-gwl10/000054903-1

Is it easy or even possible to reproduce the issue at will? If not then you might have to arrange with them that you'll drop the car off the next time it happens and let them get to it when they can. When everything's working correctly nobody will be able to diagnose it, you need to get it to them in the failed state so they can see what's happening with it.

Also are you sure it's actually pulling rather than it just being the camber of the road? Most cars will pull slightly to the left on most UK roads because the camber of the road is angled down to the left.

Were the tyres swapped left to right or front to back?

Sounds like a good result, better than a dead fuel pump!

That’s clever. I tried to do the same thing with my arduino tracker and a latching relay but after twice getting back to the car at the airport after holidays to find it dead as a doornail I gave up and connected it to the ignition rail.

They'll be wired in such that they only draw power when the ignition switch it on. Having them on permanently would be a bad idea for obvious reasons.

This! Don't do it. They can barely cope with bulbs.

Hey since you're in London why not try a dedicated auto electrical specialist? These guys are very good in my experience: http://www.electrumautoelectrics.com

Doesn't look like there's much in the way of parts for the cruise control, which would make sense on a drive-by-wire system. http://europe.toylexparts.com/lexus/521220/mcu38r-awagkq/235w/004/4/8408/846907 If you want to have a go yourself this is what I'd do: 1) Remove the stalk and check the connections for burned pins, make sure it's plugged in correctly. Clean contacts with isopropyl alcohol maybe. Do the same for the interlink cable. 2) If the above doesn't work, replace the stalk and/or cable If neither of those yields success it could be either a wiring problem somewhere between the cable and the ECU or a problem with the ECU itself. Checking for codes like PCM said is also a good idea though.

After looking on ebay, I think I will keep the boot liner after all even though it doesn't fit exactly. The official Lexus one is £92, this one was £25. The extra inch or two isn't worth £67!

As the weather is starting to get rainy I wanted to get a proper set of rubber floor mats for my car. Lexus Parts Direct has a boot mat but apparently not a set of seat floor mats for my car, so I was looking on ebay and found these: Lexus RX300 (2003-2009) 5MM Heavy Duty Rubber Tailored Car Mats - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/132536689795 Lexus RX300 (2003-2009) 5mm Heavy Duty Tailored Black Rubber Bootmat - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/132507777101 offered by Mat Kings. All of the mats are well made and very sturdy, thick strong rubber that isn't going to get damaged any time soon. The seat floor mats fit great, unfortunately the boot mat doesn't as you can see from the photos. Big gaps at either side. So I'll probably be returning that. Not sure if I'll get the official one or try another ebay one.. the official one is a bit pricey at £85!

On mine the arms were an MOT advisory (it did pass though). I wouldn’t even consider using aftermarket control arms, the Lexus ones last 80,000 miles. Aftermarket ones likely won’t last as long and could possibly even be dangerous, in the past I’ve had mechanics tell me they won’t fit aftermarket arms as they’ve seen them break. If there’s no play though you may be right and they might not be needed now.

Depends on whether you plan on keeping it until it dies or not. If so then who cares about the stamps in the book.

Also if you use a good garage (Lexus specialist ideally) they should test drive it before and after the fluid change to make sure it's shifting right and that there aren't any issues with delayed engagement, weird shift points or slipping. As I said mine was done at 77k which is also late and Russell showed me the jug of black burned fluid that came out of it, but it's still going strong 20k later so hopefully there wasn't any significant damage.