m4rkw

I just found this: https://www.youcanic.com/guide/open-lexus-trunk-when-battery-dead

Check the manual for the emergency opening procedure, maybe you missed a step or a key bit of information that's making it seem like it doesn't work? Failing that, call a vehicle locksmith. I locked myself out of a toyota some years ago and the guy turned up and used some tricks to get in. Those guys know a lot of tricks. I think it cost about £60.

I think you're probably right that the manual is just talking about a normal moon roof and not the panoramic roof. That would explain what I was told by the Lexus dealer. I will update here if I hear back from their head office but I think you've probably already answered it.

If it's the plastic bit that's on a hinge by the latch, I think that might be part of the trim piece. It is on mine anyway (2006 RX). Mine is also broken but the part is £80+postage from Lexus so I'm not going to bother replacing it.

You can find the part numbers on toylexparts.com

If you found the part on ebay what is it that you need help with?

Under normal circumstances i’d agree with you @Herbie but it’s a brave person who gets on a train these days!

Welcome to the forum! It looks like the siren is somewhere in the back of the car, no.4 on this diagram: http://europe.toylexparts.com/lexus/524210/mhu38r-awxgkw/309w/002/4/8424/846928c#box_89040 Possibly tucked away under some of the boot trim. Mark

I have called Lexus just now and am waiting for a call back to discuss this apparent discrepancy.

This is very interesting. I've just got back from holiday and checked my owners manuals to see if there was any mention of a roof load limit. The translated Harrier manual makes no mention of roof loading, presumably because that's just something that isn't offered in Japan. I also have a regular RX-300 manual which came with my car, and it has a page that talks about how to use the roof rails and bars. And at the end of that section is a very interesting little box that says: "When loading the luggages, be careful not to scratch the surface of the moon roof." Something's not adding up here.. was it perhaps originally indicated that it would be ok but later they had a bunch of complaints and/or litigation as a result of cracked roofs?

Nice work, I'm so jealous of the space and the tooling to be able to do stuff like this. One day..

I have a 2006 RX-300, JDM import Harrier. The HVAC/multifunction display is partially english and partially japanese. The headings for some of the readouts are in english but there's some japanese text next to some of it. The text that should say "cruise range" is written in japanese for example, and the distance is shown in km. Except it's actually miles. I've just realised after more than two years of owning the car that the "km" it shows are actually miles - my distance to destination on TomTom goes down nearly perfectly in line with the "km" shown on the dash. So now I'm really curious, the system has apparently been Englishified but only to a degree. I wonder if I could get a regular RX display assembly and swap it out..

http://europe.toylexparts.com/lexus/521220/mcu35r-awagkw/235w/002/4/8410/845449a#box_84722 Looks like that switch is right underneath the lever. Might be simple enough to pull the lever assembly out to access the switch and check for shorts on it there?

I found a wiring diagram for a 2000 RX-300, check out the bit I've highlighted. "Park/neutral position switch" I think this is the switch that the shift lever operates. Notice it has "RL", "NL" and "DL" pins that it can switch between. Those must be "Drive line", "Neutral line", "Reverse line", and they're all right next to eachother, so my theory about separate signals for each shift state seems to be correct. I reckon you probably have a short there somewhere, either between DL and NL, RL and NL or all three. Not sure what would be easiest to access to test this, maybe someone else on here knows? Either the switch itself, the junction connector J8 or the ECU. I'm not sure exactly how to interpret the ECU pin connections, RL seems to go to 8(A), NL to 7(A) and DL to 16(A). Don't know what the (A) means. If you can figure out where you can get access to the DL, RL and NL pins you can use a multimeter to check for a short. I think out of an abundance of caution if I were going to do anything like this I would probably disconnect the battery before going anywhere near any wiring. Also I'm totally unqualified so please don't blame me if you break anything! 🙂

This thread reminded me of something that happened years ago on a beemer I used to have. One day I went out for a walk and returned an hour later to find the car on the driveway where I'd left it, with several of its rear lights on. I had the key in my pocket. .was like what the hell? I opened it and looked inside and the instrument cluster was lit up like a christmas tree with all kinds of crazy lights. Very confused I drove it over to the garage and they asked if I'd had it valeted recently - I said yes as it had just come back from a valet. It had cloth seats and they were still damp - moisture had gotten into the fusebox and played havoc with all kinds of stuff. All they did to fix it was dry it out. I'm guessing it's probably a long shot since you've not reported any damp in the car and the problems seem to have been ongoing for a while, but it wouldn't hurt to turn the heater up to max and leave it for an hour just to see if anything changes. The other suggestions about checking grounds are probably better things to try first though. I was thinking again about the symptom where the N light is always on regardless of whether the car is in D or R. Maybe each of the gearbox states (P/D/R/N) has its own signal wire which would be either high or low when that state is selected. If the N wire is shorted then that signal may be always present regardless of the lever position, which would explain why N and D/R show up together and why the car stalls when moving out of D or R (protecting itself because it gets confused by in-gear and neutral signals happening at the same time). This is a complete guess as I have no idea how the system really works, but if you can find a wiring diagram for it it may shed some light. 2003 is the crossover year, is it a gen1 or a gen2?

I don’t know i’ve never tried to remove them

I guess you could try a breaker, look for a door card in really bad condition to experiment with and see how easy it is to remove the arm rest before attempting it on one you care about.

Don’t know. Maybe but you might need special glue to reattach it. Not something i’d attempt at any rate!

What kind of auto sparky doesn’t want to look at an electrical problem?!

Removing the cards isn’t too tricky, there’s a plastic piece where the inner handle is that pulls off, underneath is a bolt. In the arm rest is a small piece of felt that comes out, under that is a second bolt. Remove the window controls and disconnect them. With those two bolts out you can start to pry it off the frame, you’ll have to lift it slightly to get it apart at the top. Not too much though and be gentle or you can break things. Once away from the frame slightly disconnect the two bowden cables inside being careful not to tug on them too much, and the electrical connector for the puddle light if you have one. Note: I did this on an RX-300 but I can’t see it being hugely different on a 400. It’s worth getting a plastic pry tool and a spare bag of push clips before you start.

I had good results with these guys: http://www.serviceupholstery.co.uk Probably a bit far from you though.

The OEM towing package would also have included a transmission cooler which you may or may not need.

Halfords will test a battery for free.

Really good point about the battery Herbie, dunno why I didn’t think of that!

Hi Dan By service I meant a fluid and filter change, I don’t think there’s any reason to remove the transmission from the car unless it’s faulty. Ideally the fluid and filter should be done every 50k miles or so, if yours has been done a couple of times that’s good, hopefully the transmission is in good shape then. If it had done 165k without a fluid change I’d be concerned. It seems unfortunately common for this to be overlooked because manufacturers like to say their transmissions are “sealed for life”. Although this is technically true, the manufacturer has a very different opinion on what the expected lifetime is than you’d ideally want. The symptom you describe when changing the shift selector sort of makes sense in the presence of the transmission position sensor code. It sounds like whatever signal is supposed to be communicated when the shift lever is changed is somehow missing or confused and causing erratic behaviour. Since it does shift into drive and reverse, perhaps that signal is getting to some part of the system but not another, causing the weird dash lights and the stalling. Maybe if that signal is missing it cuts the engine out to try to protect itself. Likely candidates are a wiring issue somewhere, a bad module or bad sensors. In any case an auto sparky seems like your best bet. I’m afraid I don’t know if there are fuses located anywhere other than the main fuse board but you could try looking on toylexparts.com. It can sometimes be difficult to find the relevant diagram but a good trick is to search for the thing you want generally across the site, eg “fuse”, which will yield results for many vehicles. Then look at what diagram sections those results appear in and then look up the same section for your specific vehicle. Mark