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Ah okay.

The mechanical inner switch on the doors uses the bowden cable to lock and unlock, so if that is really stuff that's a strong indicator something is wrong with the way the cable is attached, or it's caught on something further up.

Ohhh. It's a cable issue. You've connected the bowden cables wrongly somehow, or they aren't quite seated correctly. I think I did this on mine once after taking one of the door cards off, the inner mechanical switch became rock hard. I seem to remember on mine the end that goes to the outer handle was somehow not quite seated correctly, so it was very tight when attached to the inner handle. I think I just fiddled around with it for a while and got lucky at some point, I never figured out how to actually get to the end of it that's attached to the outer handle. I'm betting you have something similar as that would explain the symptoms - it's trying to lock but it can't because the cable isn't attached properly and can't move as it should.

Also if your car is 4wd then you want to keep the tread depth and patterns as similar as possible across all four wheels, so rotate tyres regularly. The reason it's more important on 4wd cars is that the wheels are locked together, so if there's a significant difference then one wheel wants to turn faster than another and that difference has to go somewhere - it can tear up a differential.

Well you wouldn't, because you're comparing two situations where (i'm guessing) all the tyres had plenty of grip. It's the sketchy situations where stuff like that matters, like when aquaplaning at 70mph or when you lose grip for some other reason. An imbalance side to side can stress suspension components and wear them out faster. I think there are good reasons to at least keep them matched on the same axle.

The fact that it's both rear doors but the fronts are ok seems like a clue. If there are no codes logged maybe see if you can track down a wiring diagram and see what electrical components are common to the rear doors but not the fronts.

Oh also if you have techstream it'd be worth checking for codes, maybe you have fault with one of the security modules.

If you've already replaced the actuators it sounds like its tripping a safety mechanism of some kind, if you turn the key to position 2 with all doors shut is there anything on the dash that indicates one of them is still open? Failing that I would recommend taking it to Electrum in Wimbledon if they're not too far away. They're very good at stuff like that.

What Ricky said. It may simply be that letting the battery run low has confused the car, I know on the newer vehicles it's not generally a good idea to ever disconnect the battery if you can avoid it.

Not really local to you but if you get totally stuck, Electrum in Wimbledon are very good.

If you were considering trading it in, presumably you could afford to have someone look at it and fix it for you? If so I would highly recommend Russell Birch of Toyotec in Red Hill - www.toyotec.co.uk You may be able to live with water but if it gets into anything electrical it will start to corrode it and cause more problems.

This was starting to annoy me so I decided to do something about it. The constant flickering was caused by a defective LED bulb, replaced that, but then I noticed that in the ON position the light would flicker and cut out and if I moved the switch around a bit it would change. Bad electrical connection. Simple enough fix, pulled the assembly out, disconnected its plug, took it indoors and had a look. Behind the switch is a small piece of metal with a single phillips screw hold it on the switch. (this image isn't mine but they're all the same) So I removed the screw, cleaned all the electrical contact points with vinegar and very very gently bent the metal piece towards the end where the contact was previously weak (the ON position) in order to make it press against the contacts a bit firmer. All reassembled and much better now, no cutting out or flickering even if I deliberately wiggle the switch around.

Hi Kamil You can look up part numbers here: http://toylexparts.com Maybe there are different springs for air suspension vs normal shocks? What shocks did you put on it? Mark

Best to avoid doing this if you can. As others have said it's unlikely to cause anything too serious, I can't imagine water getting high up enough to get into the transmission, however it can damage wheel bearings. It's usually not immediately apparent either, they might fail 6-12 months later and you may not even realise it was related to driving through water. Another danger when driving through water that deep is that oncoming traffic may be doing the same thing and cause a wake which can push the water up much higher over your own car. Generally if I see that much water I turn around, it's just not worth the risk.

I have a 2006 RX-300 japanese import which would have been sold as a Toyota Harrier in Japan. 2.4L chain-driven engine, has the rear fog light and the steering wheel is badged Toyota. I believe the brakes are different Lexus part numbers however I got Brembos when they were due which is a generic part for both Lexus RX-300 and the Harrier and they work well. Some things are a bit of a pain, the remote keyfobs use a non-standard transmitter frequency so it's very hard to get aftermarket transmitters for it. I only found a single supplier that could get one (after a LOT of searching) and it wasn't very high quality. Am now ordering a genuine one from Japan. Most of the car is the same as a Lexus but there are odd bits and pieces that differ and in some cases you may need to order parts from japan.

It's worth bearing in mind that very low mileage is generally the worst possible operating conditions for a car. Sure there are some parts that wear with miles but time is a much greater killer of cars than miles. I would much prefer a car with very high mileage that had been sat cruising at optimal conditions on motorways to one that had been sitting for a long time. If you've only run it around the block the engine wouldn't be getting up to temperature in order to boil off condensation in the engine which over time will sludge up the oil. Under those conditions I would change the oil every 6 months, which is what I'm currently doing, however I do plan to keep my car for as long as possible. Coolant also corrodes with time not with mileage, so you still need to follow the normal change interval for coolant regardless of mileage. Probably the same for brake fluid and steering fluid if yours is hydraulic. Rubber perishes in the presence of heat, light and oxygen, not specifically miles. There's probably loads of other stuff that degrades over time rather than miles. It's well worth having a service imho.

Are there any aftermarket TPMS systems that work well? Ideally something that syncs to an iphone. Not sure I want to risk the amazon bazaaar.

Sorry to hear about your mistake 😞 When I was a teenager I had an Amiga 1200 with a hard disk at a time when hard disks weren't very common. It was only about 200mb or so, but the data I had on it was the result of many many hours of work tinkering and messing about. One day i did the same thing you did, accidentally connected its power cable the wrong way round and fried the controller board. Was absolutely gutted. Hope you can get it sorted without paying too much. I'd be inclined to go for temporary fixes or maybe even paid diagnostics just to see the extent of the damage before spending too much.

I'll start caring about that one when all the bloody cyclists in london stop going through RED lights. I swear it's nearly all of them, whenever I see one that doesn't just sail through a red it always seems like a novel event.

If you have a 12-series iphone this is awesome: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08Q7KLBDD/ I'm sure it'll be back in stock soon. Soooo much better than having to mess about with cables!

I do it in manuals all the time when I drive them, just when coming to a stop though. The alternative is to downshift like they teach you to do, but I don't drive manuals often enough to perfectly rev match every time and I'd rather save the clutch.

Ok the accelerator part is true but my car has very little engine braking in gear (also not a hybrid!).

This, I found this quite strange when I first got the car. Anyone who's ever played the classic computer game "Thrust" will understand what it's like driving one of these. When learning to drive a manual car I was taught never to coast with the clutch in because this is supposedly dangerous. Can't really see how an RX coasting in gear is any different but oh well! You can always use S-mode to limit the car to second gear in 30-zones, then it will behave much more like a normal car and less like playing Thrust. However as mentioned above that will burn a lot more fuel.

2006 RX which is actually a Toyota Harrier. I average about 30 but mine's an underpowered 4-pot. My previous car was a Passat diesel which did 50mpg easily and I would not go back. The Lexus is in a different league in terms of reliability, overall running costs are still way lower.

Hi Ian, what's the part number?