m4rkw

-1 from me for autoglass. On an old beamer of mine they replaced the glass with some inferior quality screen and the rain sensor never worked again. No way to get them to resolve it they just tell you to visit the main dealer, who obviously can't do anything except replace the screen again with an OEM one.

I highly highly recommend Russell Birch at Toyotec of Red Hill - www.toyotec.co.uk. When I needed control arms on my RX I had an astronomical quote from a local garage who were going by the procedure in the book, Russell was around £500 cheaper on the labour because they had a technique to avoid needing to raise the subframe (I think it was something along those lines). The local place quoted 6 hours, he did it in 3 (1.5 per side).

Might be different on mine because its JDM

Oh interesting. I'm pretty sure my 2006 RX deadlocks automatically.

Deadlocking happens normally when you lock with the remote key.

Jason may be right actually, the battery in the remote doesn't need a lot of power to light the little LED but if its weak the radio signal from the transmitter may not be strong enough. Why you can't open the doors with the mechanical key remains a mystery though.

Where is the bonnet release on an SC430? If it's near the floor you may be able to do this to get in: I suspect the problem you have is a weak battery, failing that it could be a fault with the security system but weak battery is probably more likely. If you can get into the car without damaging anything you can test the security system by turning the key to position 2 in the ignition, if the security light goes out then your key is recognised. Then I suspect you'll need to charge the battery somehow, best way would probably be to get a jumpstarter from halfords or amazon and then drive it around for a bit to charge the battery.

Do you have smart keys?

Interesting, this would suggest the deadlocks are engaged and that the physical turning of the key is not enough to mechanically disengage them. Does the owners manual say anything about gaining access when the car battery is flat? On many cars this is possible but on some I understand it isn't.

Fairly common practice and I don't think "new alternator" is a deceptive term to use for these kind of exchange arrangements. Perhaps you should have gone back to the first garage as they would presumably be obligated to re-do the labour as well.

I don't think the chip that gets read by the immobiliser is powered by the button cell, that's just for the remote unlock isn't it? At least on my 2006-era key that's the case. If the key can physically turn are you able to open the door despite the alarm sounding? If so try putting the key in the ignition and turning to position 2. Could plausibly be a weak battery.

Hi @ADEE what do you mean by "meter language"?

Yeah I found the occupancy sensor/computer part on toylexparts for various other lexus, including US variants of the 450h. Couldn't seem to find it for the euro ones but that doesn't necessarily mean it isn't there. You can actually turn off the seatbelt alarm with techstream, I did this on my wife's rav4 because she was often driving around her allotment at low speeds where there's no point putting a seatbelt on and the chimes became annoying.

It's there for US models but not the european ones. It must have some kind of occupancy sensor though or there wouldn't be anything to trigger the seatbelt alarm. You could try scanning it for codes with techstream to see if there's anything logged. My guess is a sensor or sensor connection has failed somewhere.

Saying that, I'm not sure if it has one. Other Lexus models have an occupant detection computer listed on this diagram but the 450h doesn't seem to have one: http://europe.toylexparts.com/lexus/521230/agl10r-awtgkw/430w/009/4/8421/84a243/89178A

Under the passenger seat there will be an occupancy sensor, these can sometimes go bad and cause this kind of problem. If you're lucky it'll just be a loose connector, not sure about Lexus but on BMWs I used to own this was very common. When the seat is moved back and forwards it gradually wears out the cabling and causes a loose connection.

Electrum 🙂 Edit: I mean take it to Electrum. Didn't want this message misinterpreted as them being who to avoid!

Bike rack: https://www.halfords.com/cycling/bike-racks/rear-mounted-bike-racks/halfords-rear-high-mount-3-bike-bike-rack-539061.html Wiring kit: https://www.pfjones.co.uk/12n-7-pin-electrics-kit-inc-pct-bypass-relay.html Light board: https://www.halfords.com/cycling/bike-racks/bike-rack-accessories/halfords-cycle-carrier-lighting-board-910612.html Total: £143.94

I'd have thought that any rear-mounted bike rack would fit. I have a halfords one on my gen2 RX and it's fine. I had to get a light board and wiring kit because the carrier obscured the numberplate but it wasn't excessive.

When you install the filter are the tabs on the cassette supposed to line up with the firm edges of the filter or the soft edges? I always align them to the soft edges because otherwise you have to compress it a fair bit to get it in, but I always wondered which way is actually correct.

Personally I think modifying cars to look like something they're not is an odd practice. Enjoy the car for what it is, older cars are usually better anyway 🙂 Like people who put M badges on non-M BMWs.. it's just wrong.

http://toylexparts.com/decode/pr_num/9097502114 That part is for the newer generation. It *may* fit if they kept the dimensions the same, but I guess there's no way to know without trying it. Or maybe asking someone with a newer model IS to take exact measurements of theirs to compare with yours.

Yeah I think euro are simply overcharging. Mann also have a FreciousPlus line which is their premium version and those still come in at around £25 on amazon. I went for those in the end for my car and the wife's.

Is there evidence of this?

What do you mean by update it? You want to get a new one because yours is broken? They're probably available from Lexus.. http://europe.toylexparts.com/lexus/242520/ale20r-aeflyw/444w/008/3/7501/751549d