BigBoomer

Xenon HID (High Intensity Discharge) bulbs do fade over their lifetime but are far longer lived than Halogen ones. The one fitted to the 430 are D2S fitting, 35W, and I believe are 6000k colour, but may be 4300k. . Don't forget that only the dipped beam is Xenon. The high-beam and fog lights are good old halogen filament bulbs.

For music in the car I bought one of the Bluetooth/FM transmitters. You can either plug in a USB stick with yer music on it, or else connect your phone via bluetooth. I do the latter and using Folder Player (app) for Android the sound quality is good enough for prog-rock and thrash/death metal (yes, I know, what can I say, I'm an ageing Punk). I plugged the transmitter into the cigarette lighter socket inside the armrest box so it's out of sight. Was hugely expensive at around £15 delivered. 😉 I use this one but there are plenty of other designs and layouts out there. https://www.amazon.co.uk/VICTSING-Transmitter-Handsfree-Charging-Display-Grey/dp/B01K4R8RLM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549036079&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+bluetooth+adapter+for+car The only problem I have with it is because it's in the armrest box, I have to open the lid whilst making a handsfree call as it uses the microphone in the transmitter, but I don't use handsfree very often. If I needed to use it more often I'd plug it into the socket in the ashtray.

I drove in France last year for 2 weeks and left the AFS switched on. Also didn't fit any kind of "beam deflector" as the LS430 has flat beams rather than the silly inclined ones fitted to most cars. Didn't get flashed once so yer not likely to be blinding people with the lights, unless yer on high-beam. 😀

Correct, however the voltage should not drop appreciably for at least a few weeks, as I said in the previous line. If the drain is caused by an internal short then they can get hot and warp plates at which point all bets are off. Fire is less likely with valved batteries, but hydrogen/oxygen and electricity are never a safe mix.

No, Once fully charged and disconnected should stay at around 12.7 volts for weeks. If it is dropping at all it has an internal drain and needs to be replaced. Personally I wouldn't want a battery that is behaving like that in my car as if the drain gets worse it can overheat the battery and cause a split (acid everywhere) and even a fire in rare cases. A new decent quality battery is gonna be under £100 and should last 5-8 years. Cheap ones can be had for less but they just don't last and are poor value for money. https://www.battery2u.co.uk/results.aspx?part=068

Yes, soft close on all Facelift models, but may have been an option (premium pack) on pre-Facelift. The following from the 2003 User Manual. Door closer (some models) If any door is closed but does not latch shut, it automatically closes completely. This system is equipped on all the doors and will activate regardless of the ignition switch position. Pulling the door handle will cancel the door closer, allowing you to open the door which is about to close. However, pulling the door handle of the rear door which is locked with the child protector will not cancel the door closer. CAUTION Careful attention is needed so as not to get your fingers trapped as the door automatically closes when the door has not been fully closed. Never allow a child to operate the door.

Mine came with all 3 keys and the key number plate, and they all work as stated in the Manual. On the Valet key (Sub key) you have to unlock the doors with the button or the pop out key and put the key in the ignition to be able to start the engine. On your key Mark it looks like the boot opening logo has worn off so it's probably a Master key. I assume if you push the boot button on the key, it pops the boot? Left is Valet, right is Master.

The one on the bottom of pic1 and right of pic2 (without the boot opening button) is the Valet key and the Smart doesn't work on those.

2004 Owners Manual https://www.dropbox.com/s/5bx02wle7m9m1es/2004 (early) LS430 Owners Manual.pdf?dl=0 2004 Navi Manual https://www.dropbox.com/s/qf0gdmiwbxlyiaa/2004 LS430 Navi Manual.pdf?dl=0 Links will be available for 7 days. I think you need the right cable for the Techstream software. I bought a set with a cable but it never worked for me and I don't have time to fiddle with it.

Commiserations on your LS400 John. I could care less about badge or image. I bought an LS430 because I fit in it. Ford no longer make cars for me sized people (only vans/mpvs/suvs) since they dropped the Granada/Scorpio/Taurus in the EU. I recently drove a Taurus in the US and it's a nice car but has now been dropped there too as it seems everybody wants effing SUVs. I've tried the Honda Legend twice (nice, but not that reliable) Merc S-class W220 (lovely car, but awful diesel motor and ******* reliability), Vauxhall Omegas, Carltons and Senators (nice but not that reliable) and am now onto the Lexus. So far it seems to be behaving itself with just a lambda sensor having to be replaced. I do need to replace the rear left door lock (deadlock works, but regular lock doesn't) and the drivers door speaker needs replacing/repairing and probably the sub-woofer too. For a 15 year old 106k mile car that's done 15k in the last year that's not too bad. After this not sure where I'll be going. Probably be forced into an SUV as nobody seems to be buying cars any more. 😩

Welcome Malcolm, Plenty of SatNav disks around on Fleabay such as this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2017-18-Toyota-Lexus-Sat-Nav-Disc-UK-West-Europe-Latest-E1G-Map-DVD-Version-2/163353777335?hash=item2608a4d4b7:g:2nsAAOSwDfNakxme:rk:2:pf:1&frcectupt=true I don't know of any software publicly available to programme new keys but there is the TechStream software for configuring some of the defaults in your LS (headlamp delay times, etc.) Pretty sure that for the key you will need to go to Toyota/Lexus dealer. Cheers, George

Shifting to S would have added braking to the rear which had already broken loose. To be honest I kept both hands on the wheel and steered with the wheel and throttle and it worked out. At some point I would like to get some skidpad time with the 430 so I know what to expect and how to handle it.

The ZIL clone.

OEM on the official Lexus site for the 430 are shown as 29.5" (should be 24") and cost £35 for drivers side only. =:-O For that cost I'll hire someone to lick my screen clean :-) I'll try the ASH ones and see if they are any better than the existing ones. Thanks all.

Not really, it's a common occurrence on that piece of road for some reason. Also, most drivers seem to have no idea how wide their cars are as they all slow down when there is oncoming traffic even though there is enough room for a fat old Lexus with several feet to spare (it is a normal width road).

Excuse me, I now have to gouge my eyes out!! <LOL> Looks like the love child of a late 70's American car designer and a cut and shut specialist!!

Hi All, what with the naff weather my wiper blades are streaky and getting useless. The screen is in good nick with just one stonechip but that is nowhere near where I'm getting the streakiness. I regularly clean the screen with very fine wire wool to get rid of bug guts and tar and use RainEx to coat it once cleaned. The current blades were a pair of the cheap Aero VU ones bought from Ebay and I had to cut a piece off the plastic cover to fit it to the drivers side wiper arm because of the weird dogleg design, but they have stayed in place nicely. So, what do you people recommend for the 430? I generally prefer the "Aero" style to the conventional ones, but for a decent streak free wipe I'll fit anything. I know I need a 24" and a 16" :-)

So Thursday morning I'm driving to work and the M25 is in carpark mode, so I come off at Sevenoaks and take the backroads. After passing a van that was doing 30 in a 60 limit I come round a gentle curve at around 50 and see white road. I ease out of the throttle but the rear end starts to slide, so I steer into it slightly and steer with the throttle. Thank god for a precise throttle and good steering feedback. After about 300yds of sideways action the white ended and grip resumed. Chances are the VSC helped but I never had time to look at the dash to see if the light came on. I pulled over into a layby and spent 30 mins waving people down and warning them about the ice and got to see a car and a van swap ends (they didn't slow down). Then the gritter turned up and did 2 runs so I continued on to work. Winter is here so stay safe people.

On my summer holiday trip to Lot in France I averaged 28mpg over 1700 miles. Lots of Peage on the cruise control at 130kph and trips out every other day mostly on local roads. Superb for a 4.3 litre 280bhp petrol V8. On a similar trip my S320CDI only managed 40mpg on diesel and had 70 less bhp and atrocious turbo lag.

Do you mean one of these? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-RIGHT-FRONT-FENDER-LINER-FITS-2004-2006-LEXUS-LS430-LX1251114/331642293701?epid=720955793&amp;hash=item4d376bcdc5:g:wPAAAOSw0Btbvxqb:rk:4:pf:1&amp;frcectupt=true

They always look that way. Check out this article on the US Club forum. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-3rd-gen-2001-2006/896244-does-ride-height-affect-tire-wear.html Scroll down and it shows and explains why the rear arches are lower. Ignore the arches and instead make sure that the bottom of the body is parallel with the ground.

Winter? In the UK? You guys must all live Ooop North Like!! 😜 I use the same tyres year round but if the snow is particularly bad I work from home. Never had a problem yet, but many years ago I nearly got hit by a moron in a 4x4 who thought that because she had 4WD and could accelerate better than 2WD cars on snow, then she also had better braking than everyone else too. She missed me but trashed her rear wheel sliding into the kerb at 25Mph after spinning out of control.

They can be a PITA if setup incorrectly like the Jag one Malc mentions. On my 1400GTR it warns me when tyre pressure goes below 36psi (normal = 42psi) and has been a lifesaver on 3 occasions. It is a properly quick bike (0-60 = 3secs, 1/4mile = 10.7secs) so I really want to know that the tyres are OK before I unleash the beast. On cars, yer right, you are less likely to crash unless you have a blowout, but so many car drivers NEVER check their tyre pressures that just having compulsory TPMS probably reduces emissions by a few % all by itself. Personally I check tyre pressure on all my vehicles weekly, even those with TPMS. There are good and bad technologies in most vehicles. I hate the fact that if your Lambda sensor heater becomes less efficient (slow to preheat), the LS430 disables ASC and traction control,..... for a cold start emissions measurement issue. It doesn't actually affect the emissions as once warmed up the lambda sensor performs normally, and for this it disables 2 safety systems? DOH! I also hate linked brake systems on motorcycles, but accept that for new riders or the less competent, they are a boon.

On a car they are useful as they warn you that you have a flat BEFORE you lose control of the vehicle. Gives you time to come to a controlled stop and check the pressure/call the RAC/AA/GF. I have TPS on one of my motorcycles and on that they are a lifesaver. Ever tried to ride a bicycle with a flat front tyre? Now try that again at 60Mph!!!

A big problem with modern "eco" fuels is Ethanol. This is added to all 95RON and some 98/99RON fuels to make them "greener". The problem with Ethanol is that it attracts water and holds it in suspension in the petrol. If too much water gets mixed in with the petrol you will get rough running and poor fuel economy. In the pre-Ethanol days the water in the tank at the petrol station would settle to the bottom and could be drained off.