iwonder

Fitting a resistor on the heater circuit will clear the code if the wiring is intact. To replicate the o2 reading you need an o2 simulator. you can make your own if you really wanted to. Then blank off the o2 port. or If you have the space, fit a 90 degree spacer and refit a working sensor

Apologies, i missed this. You can advise anything. It is a manual operation and doesn't give options only like the reason for rejection section. You can advise tyres are illegal if you really wanted to even though you failed them. It's up to the tester to advise what they feel the customer should be aware of.

I answered this already. "The biggest reason for LEDs failing is because people buy the type which are blue, or has a blue tint. Although it may be predominantly white, it will look blue to a tester that sees yellow/white bulbs every day." If your LED is white with a slight blue tint it is an MOT pass, problem is not everyone reads the manual. The reasons for rejection are listed but not the notes, which have to be looked up. If you point them to the note 'Some front position lamps have a blue tinge to the light. This is acceptable provided the light is predominantly white.' to the examiner and requested to appeal the decision. I guarantee you will end up with a MOT pass and the MOT tester learning the rules. The philips blue tinted sidelight bulbs are a perfect example of this issue and they are not LED. They sometimes get failures for incorrect colour but are 100% legal and an MOT pass.

If the lexus writing is clear, you can modify them with lights using the original wiring loom for power. If they are opaque then you will have to go aftermarket/OEM upgrade

To aid other readers, i'll list the failures that you can have, which relate to sidelights. Sidelights; 'inoperative or less than 50%of the light sources illuminating' 'obscured so that less than 50% of the lamp illuminating surface is visible from the front or rear as appropriate' 'not visible from a reasonable distance due to excessive damage, deterioration, or having products on the lens or light source' 'shows a light other than red to the rear and white to the front(or yellow if a front position lamp is incorporated in a yellow headlamp) ' Note: Some front position lamps have a blue tinge to the light. This is acceptable provided the light is predominantly white. Dipped lights; 'inoperative, excessively damaged or deteriorated or has a product on the lens or light source so that the light output is well below that required to illuminate the road ahead' 'an obligatory headlamp shows light that is not substantially white or yellow' 'do not emit light of the samecolour' 'A headlamp which does not conform to diagrams 1, 2 or 3 that has a beam image which is aimed so that it dazzles other road users.' dip beam headlamps are aimed so they do not dazzle, ie the beam image brightest part is aimed at least 0.5% below the horizontal 'Projected beam image obviously incorrect, e.g. where the headlamp bulb is incorrectly fitted or the reflector is seriously corroded' So to clear up, sidelights are not tested with a machine. If it looks mostly white, it will pass. Only output failure available to the testers is related to dimming of the light. Dipped beams can fail on dazzle, which is judged by a machine between to markers. If it fails, they can be adjusted down/up/left/right to become an MOT pass. The biggest reason for LEDs failing is because people buy the type which are blue, or has a blue tint. Although it may be predominantly white, it will look blue to a tester that sees yellow/white bulbs every day. Car insurance tend to include in their Ts and Cs that the car must have valid MOT, so I agree on that. A prime example of a car passing an MOT but not being roadworthy/legal window tinting. Ting the front windows and its an MOT pass. drive out on the road with your freshly made MOT certificate and you will get pulled by police. Legally you need to have a catalytic converter if fitted from factory, hybrids don't get a full emissions test therefore looking if it has a CAT isn't actually listed as an inspection procedure. You can have several aftermarket front lights if you really wanted. They are not part of the inspection so would be overlooked, but you can get pulled for that too. These examples are what i mean when I say the MOT test is the bare minimum but your car can still be illegal.

Also factor in that lexus introduce new tech into their cars, which can be problematic. Toyota are a bit slow in that respect to introduce certain things. I also think a 10 year warranty on battery is pretty fair provided a HHC is done. Would be interesting to see what the hybrid cars are like warranty wise from other manufacturers. On is300h reliability. I think batteries will fail more often that the other models as their cooling intake is very easy to clog. The pop up hood is another weak spot as a small tap to the front can set it off. If your lucky it can be reset otherwise you need parts. The rear arch corrosion repair is another weak spot as it depends on who repairs it as to how good it is done. Miss something and years down the line you will have corroded arches

Yep "2. My car has passed its MoT Test with an LED bulb fitted, surely this makes them safe and legal?The MoT is a minimum safety standard that does not permit dismantling to be carried-out during the examination. It does not, generally, enforce Type Approval. Therefore, it is possible to have an unroadworthy car that has just passed its MoT Test." This is what I'm talking about. They may be illegal, but they will pass an MOT. Police don't seem to care about LED sidelights either, judging by the number of cars with them fitted around my area. I saw a brand new CT today going for its PDI, the DRLs are stupidly bright. Surprised they are even allowed as standard.

Sorry mate but that's completely false. It's not worth going any further as your mixing legal with MOT inspection, which are completely different. Your understanding of the MOT is way off. The manual is online for all to see, method of inspection and reason for rejections are clearly stated. It might well be illegal in the eyes of the law but MOT isn't the law. Letsjust agree to disagree 👍

I would guess larger companies would have it as it's expensive to have them fitted, newer MOT place more likely to have it. Some dealers do but if you asked them they would probably check suspension the normal way. That's not the only way to check suspension though so I wouldn't go out of my way to find one of these places. It's just easier to see faults

Can't really compare Kia to lexus. More like Kia 5 year v Toyota 5 year. If the issue is emissions or safety, Toyota/lexus will perform field fixes for free if you stay in the main dealer network or do a recall. You don't get that with other companies nearly as much as they should.

Yes lambda sensors do, not oxygen sensors (post cat) they deal with cat efficiency.

Spot on. The latest code can relate to wiring fault, which is exactly what disconnecting the connector will reproduce. Sensor on a gearbox wouldn't replicate the expected range and therefore code will remain. Testing at ECU end with scope would cover the complete circuit and can be test at idle and revving.

Not sure how you wouldn't know but if you ask they will know what you mean. It will replicate steering freeplay check, side to side. It also pushes the front axle side to side, good for checking balljoints and bushes. It doesn't replicate the movement when going of a bump but more often that not you will see what's worn.

Looks like aftermarket fitment. Odd to fit a fan though

What's your reg? You can give an advisory for anything so they are lying to you.

What was the failure? Incorrect colour I assume? I understand where your coming from but I think your confusing the two, you seem to be referring to dipped beam, which would still pass provided the pattern was ok. The only failure for front sidelights people get failures for is incorrect colour because they get blue looking ones, which is purely based on the testers opinion. The fact the LED sidelight is aftermarket or not E marked has nothing to do with the MOT. The same goes for aftermarket DRL lights, as long as they dont replace the original sidelights. Where there is any doubt, the tester is supposed to give the benefit of doubt and pass that area of inspection. MOT is a very basic roadworthy check. You can pass an MOT and get pulled by police and fined on the same day, the MOT standards are that low.

I have used Mtec several times and always gone for dimpled and grooved with coating. Never had issues and they are quality discs. Cracks between drilled areas is pretty common and not limited to Mtec. For the DIYers... For front brakes, its always good practice to replace the slider bush. they are about £2 from a dealer. Use red rubber grease or high temp silicone grease only for sliders. Moly grease for the shims if you are fitting them, look for brake pads with an anti squeal back plate if not using the original shims. You will have to reuse the pad ear clip though. When compressing the piston back, make sure the piston boot isn't damage. For rear brakes, the fitting kit (sliders and springs) is similar price to the aftermarket so I would stick to original. The lower slider boot tends to swell or split allowing moisture in so replace if needed and grease the sliders. Regular maintenance of the rear sliders will save you buying new calipers. Don't use copper grease anywhere near rubbers. If there is copper grease on the boots or bushes, replace them as it will save you a set of discs/pads or worst case a caliper in the future. front boots are about £16 for a set iirc.

I agree its unlikely to be both although it can happen. Based on that I would be checking wiring between ECU and the connector that links both sensors. Try scoping at the ecu aswell rather than the sensor and check for the same results as before

What reason for rejection would that come under? I never seen that for position lights, only reg plate lights.

Just to add, the width is stamped on the inside of the alloy. Seeing as you bought the car recently, I would check the coolant in reservoir and get the rear calipers checked out for seizing on sliders. Very common and worth getting sorted whilst it's free

LED in the armrest storage is the same as both footwell lights. its a single LED chip

Easiest way to check is to see if the LED chip is facing downwards. the one in the center console is the same if you want to compare. if it isnt seated correctly. the LED will be angle towards the front left of the car.

The passenger LED is to the right rear right of the footwell. Drivers is central and behind the EOBD port.

The only thing I can add to the above is to ask for atleast a 45min AC vacuum after condenser is replaced, they should say we do that anyway if not for longer if they are any good.

Find a local garage with an ATL MOT test lane and ask if they will investigate. They give the front axle a good shake and tends to show up weak bushes.If you think it is due to wheel moving back when riding a bump, it is more likely lower arm