iwonder

Take it to a dealer and get the ECU software updated. Cheapest possible fix you can get. If ECU is up to date, transmission pan needs to be dropped to test the solenoids or you can do basic checks at the main connector.

What tends to happen is either the inner shim corrodes and falls apart so they get binned or the replacement pads have their own shim so the old ones get binned (TRW pads usually have shims). They are pretty expensive but they do prevent squeal very well. The front shim kit comes with the pad end clip which help prevent noise from the pad rattling up and down the carrier. I cheap fix if your only interested in curing the noise is to use an aftermarket anti squeal pad or 3M double sided high temp tape, these work just as good.

Shim kits are usually dealer only, you can make your own by cutting some anti squeal pads (ebay search: LARGE EBC ANTI SQUEAL SELF ADHESIVE BRAKE PAD SHIMS NOISE REDUCTION) For pins, try budweg or frenkit

No comms, fan blasting and no start screams ECU to me as a first thought. I would start with what colin said, check ECU area for poor connection. I tend to drop gearbox and engine complete and take the loom with it so it could be something as simple as connector not fully locked in or a pin has been bent. If all ok, I would check power and grounds on ECU and also EOBD port. If thats ok I would then check sensor voltage, throttle position/coolant. This will give you an idea if the ECU is outputting correct voltage.

Sorry for late response, haven't been on for a while. I think the red rubber grease description is maybe confusing as im sure its not the same as the red rubber grease you get it tubs which is vegetable/ester based. Nissan, subaru, toyota, lexus and probably more japanese manufacturers specify this red rubber grease. I believe the original manufacturer is niglube as that tube looks identical although the japanese writing was blue and i no longer have it, I have 3 different tube designs of the same grease and it now says for metal and rubber on the latest tube. Added a photo to clear any doubt

If the inner edge is worn smooth then most likely a 4 wheel alignment wont fix it as it's pretty common. If tread (central 3/4) are within about 1mm of each other then it's not bad going to be honest.

They should not be recommending either of those on a one year old car. I would be interested to know what engine cleaning fluid they are offering. Toyota 0W20 does a fine job as it is and really doesn't require extra cleaning. R134A refrigerant can leak up to 60g a year so they typically recommended every two years to account for this as well as to remove all the moisture in the system that has built up in that time. R1234YF is still fairly so I have yet to see consistent figures of acceptable refrigerant leakage over 1 year but they are supposed to retain refrigerant much better than the old type so maintenance can be increased to 3/4 years. One thing to consider also is what oil they are using. All dealers will carry ND8 and ND11 oil for hybrids and non hybrid vehicles. So if anyone uses kwik fit, halfords etc make sure they have ND11

You can access CAN H/L at the EOBD port but if it is for tracker fitment, you will need to go to combination meter or passenger front footwell junction block for CAN access. Fitting a tracker anywhere near an EOBD port would be a very easy thing to spot and deactivate/remove. This is why the tracker companies usually take a few hours because they remove dash, center console or rear seats to hide wiring and unit.

Molykote make great products. They supply the shim grease for Toyota which looks alot like moly grease. I'll be buying some molykote caliper grease to see how it compares.

toyota and lexus calipers dont come with red rubber grease in the sliders from factory. It's what they recommend when repairs are carried out after though. The biggest issue with these calipers is using a grease that swells the boot or reusing the old grease when replacing discs/pads. Ive been using toyotas supplied red rubber grease for years and have never had a slider issue as a result.

Other than the usualy checks you would/should do on a car your viewing some RX specific things would be.. Timing belt should of been done, timing belt and water pump as a minimum. Ideally full kit should be replaced including idlers and tensioner. Common for original radiators to start cracking on the plastic join, you can check the front of the radiator with the bonnet open. Check the coolant is full, if its low it will be either the radiator as mentioned or the water pump which is hard to check if you don't know where to look. If it has a sunroof, there is potential for the drains to block causing issues to arise months later. Only way to check that is to open sunroof and poor water down the sides of the sunroof to make sure it clears (I just use a 1l water bottle and poor half down both sides) The boot struts tend to fail at that age and wont hold themselves up when opened manually. Check the brake discs braking surfaces are clean metal, any uneven rust on the surface is a good indication the brakes have an issue.

All they would need to do is unplug the connector for the brake light and it give it external power to see if it lights up. A 2 minute test tells you whether your looking at lamp or wiring fault and a visual inspection of the wiring coming out of the lamp which fails. If they didn't replace for that money, that's very poor service.

The anti roll bar fault is common and I wouldnt worry too much if it happens again the future as it take 15 mins to fix. The ARB plate that hold the bushes to the subframe seem to wash out any grease and cause the noise. As long as they are smothered in red rubber grease or similar, that issue wont reappear as I've seen people use spray greases etc. which eventually wash/wear away after a few months.

If it's the led type, the wires will be pulled from the unit. Common when sidelights are replaced as the attach to the sidelight bulb holder extension

The speed of the data link. Click primary and select a different list of data or click the arrows at the bottom to move data from visible and hidden. Just keep the data that you need to test, so lambda and rpm for what your doing. It will be more reliable data to compare live or you will have to keep saving the data to view back to cancel out the lag. My mongoose cable operates at 100-300ms.

Click the bottom with arrows pointing left and right. And remove as much data as possible. Your ms reading is too high to accurately test sensors. Dealer techstream runs at 1-300ms to give you live data without lag between Comms. Slow live data and lead to incorrect diagnosing

If you ever feel the brakes aren't that good, they probably have issues. When working correctly the is250 brakes are fine.

Have you tried swapping coils and spark plugs around to give you definitive answer on what fault is.

As above pull a coil pack and check for worse or similar condition. Or pull coil and spark plug and rest on metal of engine and check for a good strong spark with varied distance (disconnect fuel pump connector or relay). There are inductive pick ups that flash when coil is firing which is decent or the proper test is oscilloscope to check wave patterns of the windings collapsing and generating a voltage spike.

Check manifolds for pinholes or intake plenum seals.

If it's due to water ingress. Easy fix is to get codes read and hope the code gives an indicator of what connector is causing the issue

Your also paying for the experience of a lexus tech, they are more familiar with the cars and know areas of common failure to inspect etc. More helpful if you have an issue you want addressed during service.

A simple brake clean and grease should fix it, so long as the correct greases are used

The headlamps needs adjusting

Unless you have missed the 20k, you are due the 30k/3 year service which is just an oil/filter change and visual check. The intermediate will be a lot cheaper