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Everything posted by Connor2x4
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Ah I see. Is there no-one breaking a mk4 that would sell the springs? I'm inclined to keep mine in the shed until they're ready to go back on the car Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
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Something like that [emoji6][emoji23] Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
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That's why I'm keeping this thread as up to date as I can. Everyone loves a thread full of pics and whilst it's not in everyone's tastes no-one can say it's not having time or money spent on it lol. The old struts were actually in decent condition. I live in Nottinghamshire, what do you need copies for? Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
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Thanks, I'm aware that it's not to everyone's taste but that's the great thing about having different opinions, what isn't nice to some is lovely to others. Anything that's done to the car is near enough reversible so by time it comes for sale (if I ever got rid [emoji848]) it would be back to factory spec. Everything that's come off can go back on and everything's that's gone on can go back :) Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
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Thanks, behind the bootlid holes are some aluminium mesh with some fibreglass filler, and the boot carpet will cover those up once that goes back on. The coilovers are bc br's and came with the top mounts already on. The coilovers have 30 way adjustment between soft and stiff ride, I've currently got it set on 10 from softest and must say it's incredibly comfortable, not what you'd expect from coilovers but have always heard good about bc's and must say so far they're living up to the rep :) Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
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And what a pain in the backside of a job it was. For those who aren't aware the whole back bench and seats have to come out to reach the top mounts for the rear struts. Whilst time consuming it isn't particularly difficult. The issue came when removing the bolt holding the bottom of the strut into the rear frame. The way it was put in meant that it hits the anti roll bar on it's way out! After a lot of wrestling and help from some friends we managed to get the rear done. As for the front, also a pain in the backside. The first strut was no issue, remove the bottom bolt, the three in the top, and take off the top wishbone for more access. Job done. However on the passenger side all hell seemed to break loose. When the bottom bolt was taken out the strut shot into the base of it's seating area and refused to move. The sides needed prising apart enough to allow the bottom of the strut out through the front. Why this happened on one side and not the other I don't know but it's a job now done. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
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Also have finally fitted some bc coilovers. Whilst I'm aware it will pretty much split the 400 community on here in half it's where I wanted to go next with the car. (Posting through the app on my phone only allows for 9 images. See next post) Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
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Bit of a while since the last post but definitely been busy. I've finally managed to get round to smoothing the nasty holes out of the boot and although not perfect not bad for a diy home job. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
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Evening guys, a quick search hasn't really picked up the answers I'm after so I'm asking you knowledgeable folk :) In my 98 I've got the touchscreen sat nav that links with the stereo. My question to you guys is if anyone has or is aware of a aftermarket stereo that still communicates with the touchscreen nav? Aswell as that, also wondering if the speakers (especially the subwoofer) can be upgraded without need to the factory amp. And if the amp does need upgrading too any that are best? Whilst the speakers themselves are great the stereo is a little dated, and I could do with some extra bass from the rear. But ideally I don't want to lose any touchscreen options or have to butcher and splice a ton of wires. Thanks chaps Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
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Thanks for the advice, but painting it shouldn't be an issue, painted plenty of things before but just not needed a decent colour match :) If you've had decent results from just the paint code on eBay I'll give that a go, thanks :) I've ran trimmed plates on this almost as soon as I bought it, and had smaller/ "not correct" size plates on previous cars. It seems that as long as it can be read at a distance, the local fuzz isn't too fussed. My old Celica had an Trimmed to USDM size plate, and the rear was a motorbike plate, never had any issues with those and had them on for a few years.
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Anywhere I can buy a good match online for a green LS400? Before everyone bombards with 'get it done at a bodyshop', I'm only painting the bootlid where the number plate sits as the previous owner drilled lots of holes that had gone lovely and rusty. It'll be taken to a bodyshop when I can afford to have more than one panel painted at once, as it'll be cheaper in the long run. Thanks in advance, Connor (I'm aware the paint match won't be perfect because of sun fade etc, but good reccomendation appreciated) Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
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Resolved this issue! Luckily at the college I study at there are 2 ex Lexus technicians. The issue was that the original towbar from factory uses an oem loom, the problem was that the previous owners had tapped into a source of power and added that to the towbar. The towbar loom has been unplugged and the plugs are back to normal and now the indicators finally work as intended! I have attached a picture so you guys can see if you have anything similar fitted. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
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Those pad retaining clips on the side were taken off and cleaned up before being put back on, but in regards to the sliding pins and boots because I was hand painting anyway I was able to brush around them Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
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Hi all, thanks for your comments. Yes they are rays 350z wheels, straight bolt on except spigot rings so that was easily done. The ride at the moment doesn't feel much different in my opinion, but then again for the past 3 and a half years I had a celica so I'm used to a rough ride, and the seats are more than comfortable enough to soften and speed bumps lol. Although I don't mind black wheels they aren't staying that way, the squares in the spokes will be smoothed out aswell. At the moment I'm thinking of a dark grey, as silver is too standard for myself (young folk, can't leave things alone lol) I'm pleased that everyone gives their opinion as it's nice to hear what you think. And as you guys have mentioned although this is modified it is still looked after, they are indeed a rare sight and I love being one of a few to own one of these that's still on the road [emoji16] Hopefully over the coming weeks the wheels can be painted. I'm having an increase in hours at work so although I'll have less time, I should have more money to spend. All comments welcomed, thanks guys Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
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So the front brakes have been painted and I've finally got some new wheels [emoji16] they're in need of a refurb and some new centre caps to get them how Id like but they're a direct fit bar spigot rings Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
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Had a similar problem in a toyota celica gen 7 which wouldn't rev past 5k either. Someone had the same problem which was solved by a new camshaft sensor. Changed it on that to no avail, had it looked over by a garage to find the water pump had been leaking onto the crank sensor. Changed that and it was fine. If the usual check this and clean that doesn't work, I'd advise checking those points there. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk