wharfhouse

Yes that is the case - the maps, poi, speed cameras are all as per the date the update was compiled by Lexus which may be even older than when installed. My car is a 2014 too with original sat nav maps etc - been thinking about updating but to be fair the roads change very little and fixed speed cameras don't seem to change a lot either over recent years with more reliance on mobile vans now so I wonder how much it's worth it too.

Yes, there is nothing that is 100% - any system can only be a guide and restraint and diligence the only way to avoid points!

It's a speed camera alert - beeps with or without nav running

In my experience there is little to no need to have to mess around with the TPMS - I have only had it come on once in over two years when I had one tyre that was down on pressure, just after I bought the car from the dealer, so it worked correctly. I made sure all the tyres were the same temperature (so not in sun/shade etc.) and set all the pressures to 36psi as per the handbook and the TPMS light went out and has stayed out ever since (I did not do any TPMS reset) - the tyre was OK - just a bit down on pressure. I do check my tyre pressures every few months and in particular make sure I add some air as temperatures drop in winter to maintain the cold pressure at 36psi - also all tyres lose some pressure over time so do need checking every few months if you want to maintain them within a sensible pressure tolerance. I also check tyre pressures after a dealer/garage service and interestingly have twice found that one tyre (same position each time) was low on pressure after a service (the other three being correct) - could be wrong but I think they have a different machine for each corner of the car at dealers and so I guess one was not working correctly. If the TPMS has been reset and is now not working correctly I would carefully go through the process again - so get the tyres stone cold (leave overnight) and make sure all are the same temperature (so not one in sun and one in shade etc.) and then set pressures correctly using a good handheld pressure gauge (the ones in the pumps are notoriously poor) and finally reset the TPMS (using the reset switch as below) to register the correct pressure. From then on it really should not indicate any problem unless one or more tyres really have lost a reasonable amount of pressure. If it is coming on, with air temperature changes we get in the UK which are not that extreme, then given my experience (of not having any issues) sounds like it could be a fault in the TPMS/sensors. ■ How to initialize the tire pressure warning system Park the vehicle in a safe place and turn the power switch off. Initialization cannot be performed while the vehicle is moving. Adjust the tire inflation pressure to the specified cold tire inflation pressure level. (→P. 568) Make sure to adjust the tire pressure to the specified cold tire inflation pressure level. The tire pressure warning system will operate based on this pressure level. Turn the power switch to ON mode. Press and hold the tire pressure warning reset switch until the tire pressure warning light blinks slowly 3 times. Wait for a few minutes with the power switch in ON mode and then turn the power switch off.

I think most modern cars have a slight "rattle" on first cold start, probably more pronounced in winter - usually to do with oil circulating to hydraulic tappets etc. I believe

Although there is a GFV it's only a safety net. When you come to sell the car it may well be worth more than the GFV and so you keep the difference or put it towards a new car. If you decide after the two years to buy the car for the GFV and keep it then you have simply paid a bit more of the car off during the two years.

I have a 64 reg IS 300h Executive with standard nav and don't have the navigation on the cluster.

Funny you should say that. Was just thinking of changing my wiper blades but in the last week I have covered around 1000 miles up and down the motorways and in the North in particular with a lot of salt thrown onto the car off the roads. I was having to constantly keep wiping the windscreen with spraying plenty of screen wash and the wipers are now working perfectly again. I guess the slightly abrasive salt has scoured the windscreen clean! Pity the rest or the car is still caked in dirt though!

My wiper insets were first changed according to the Lexis service schedule at 20k miles and again just before I purchased the car at 40k miles (both Lexus Reading). Currently done 70k miles and feeling they probably need replacing again - so between 20k and 30k miles per set of inserts - not sure how typical that is?

Service interval is 10k miles or 12 months whichever comes sooner (unless classed as business use and then 12.5k miles I think)

It's warning of speed cameras - works off the maps even with sat nav not operating and can't be switched off. The volume is controlled in line with the nav spoken volume.

It was my car that was damaged by the lorry tyre on the motorway - very nearly a write off but in the end repaired superbly by Lexus. I had bought it just less that a year previously when I was told that the car may be a write off (it was two years old when I purchased it) and the first thing I did was go onto the Lexus website to see what might be available should it come to that - so like you, when I heard the possible bad news I decided straight away to replace it with another IS 300h like for like.

Never looked on my Lexus but on a Honda we had there was a fuse extractor tool in the fuse box - just wondering if there is a similar one in the Lexus fuse box?

The big rip-off with insurance is even if you are shown not to be at fault in any way you can guarantee your insurance will still go up the following year...! The reason from the insurance company being if you have had one accident (although not at fault and maybe not even in the car) you are a higher risk of having another... go figure!

Like this from Auto Express on the 2019 NX... : All models come with a 2.0-litre turbocharged four-cylinder petrol-hybrid with 192bhp, and economy figures of up to 54.3mpg. https://www-autoexpress-co-uk.cdn.ampproject.org/v/s/www.autoexpress.co.uk/lexus/105580/lexus-rx-and-nx-suvs-revised-for-2019?amp_js_v=a2&amp_gsa=1&amp#referrer=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com&amp_tf=From %1%24s&ampshare=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.autoexpress.co.uk%2Flexus%2F105580%2Flexus-rx-and-nx-suvs-revised-for-2019

I have the standard rather then Premium Nav - I have set everything up as I like it including the traffic updates etc. which work fine when navigating but like the OP said I have had a few random reports of traffic come through that have nothing to do with the journey I am on or where I am in the country - it just seems to be a blip in the system - not really concerned as I've only had a few over a couple of years of driving the car, it's just strange when they pop up on the screen!

They weren't over the radio but on the satnav screen

I've had random traffic announcements too for hundreds of miles away - only a few over a couple of years so not too worried about it

I haven't replaced mine yet but noticed there are some videos online showing how to replace the rubbers. Same for all Lexus so just do a Google on it. Looks straight forward.

Kept an eye on my journey mpg this morning - left at 8:00am and outside temp was 2C. Car was in Eco driving mode and heating set to 22C and the rear window demister was also on. The journey is 30-50mph roads flowing (so not stop start) with one uphill. After 2 miles the mpg was showing 25mpg. The car had warmed up after the 2 miles and would go into EV on lifting off the accelerator at this point but any acceleration started the engine (the battery would have been very cold overnight and I've noticed Lexus protect this when it's cold from the electric motor drawing too much). Continuing the journey (similar roads and speed etc.) after 10 miles the mpg was showing 40mpg. EV would now come on readily and stay on even with mild acceleration so I assume the battery had now warmed up properly. I have an Executive spec so 17" wheels but doubt that would matter too much for this journey. Looks like your mpg for your 2 mile commute looks about right.

2 mile uphill with a cold engine won't run in EV - both the incline and the short distance work against that. Coming back downhill in summer would probably get EV on after about a mile. In winter doubt the engine would get warm enough to go to EV by the time you are home. So in essence you are pretty much running those 4 miles a day on just the engine. With a Lexus hybrid it's not like a PHEV so not really meant for any significant EV running - the battery/electric motor supports the engine to run more economically but isn't designed to be running EV for very long and not when under any significant load like uphill or accelerating quickly. You would probably gain a lot more with a PHEV or full EV car for such a commute.

Strange - I press Start button (foot on brake) to put the car ready to go and then simply press the EV button - you have a few seconds to do it. This makes sure the ICE doesn't fire up. Only reason I think it wouldn't work would be that the traction battery is very low on charge - you can check that on the display. Certainly don't need to warm up the car to enter EV mode however it won't hold it long when the engine is cold but long enough to move the car around (on a very light throttle) or set off and get a bit down the road before the engine kicks in.

It will be interesting for you to have a back to back comparison with the BMW 5 series given that is in effect a class higher (the IS I would compare to a 3 series normally). I had an E39 528i which to this day was the best car I have ever owned - but I now put the IS 300h up there with it - although 20 years apart in age they actually share many of the same attributes IMHO and that was what attracted me to the IS 300h when I had my 24 hour test drive. Do let us know how you get on after your time with the 5 series.

Yep don't see much sense in paying for a nice car like the IS just to freeze on a cold morning or sweat on a hot day so I just leave the climate control to it's own thing on Auto around 20C (plus or minus a couple of degrees)... Keeps the journeys enjoyable.

According to the trip computer mine is around 48mpg overall average (17" wheels) - that's a complete mix of driving over a couple of years of warm and cold weather - motorway (where clear pushing on but also living in the south of the country a mix of 50mph and stop start too) and then A roads and cities (though not too much city driving in the rush hour). Easy to see 50+ mpg on long clear motorway runs doing a decent speed and 60+ mpg on leisurely A roads. Short runs in the cold in winter is what drops it back as the engine has to be on to warm up and warm the car interior up.