wharfhouse

I agree with you Paul having bought an Executive (2014) trim and having driven a car with the F sport dials I'm not a fan as I prefer the analogue dials rather than digital speed readout but that's just my personal preference. I had a specific set of must haves and then nice to haves when I bought my car and I think it all underlines the need for logical thought and a test drive to make sure whatever car/spec is chosen it meets the needs of the buyer as of course everyone is different in that respect.

Ad you can see the IS 300h is a very personal choice - maybe sort of Marmite. My strong recommendation is have a decent (few hours minimum) test drive and drive it like you usually would your current car and make your own mind up. You may live it or you may hate it but it really is the only way to know.

Yes, with the price of fuel sounds like it!

I paid £338.88 at Lexus all in for 4x Yokohama Blue Earth E51 so about the same as you have been quoted.

Good to hear you started seeing mpg in line with others on the forum here.

Thanks for the update - very interesting and looks like BP and Sainsbury’s may be finally driving each other down. You're right about the BP in Aldermaston - ridiculous price - same down in Tadley - 10p+ a litre difference for a few miles...

Given the chip shortages I guess focusing on the higher spec / higher price cars with the greatest profitability makes sense from the manufacturers point of view but for my personal use the additional cost of the 450h over a 350h just doesn't add up unfortunately.

I had the Yokohama BluEarth E51 on my IS 300h from new (2014 reg - I think you made a typo in your post) and have had my Lexus dealer fit new ones of the same make as and when they need replacing. Just had my 120k mile service and the wear rate (at least when I decide to change them based on my own safety margins) is consistently 20k miles for the rears and 40k miles for the fronts. I'm very happy with these and they were the original OEM fit of course. I've just had all four replaced this week during my 120k mile service and the ride and comfort is back to the way it was when the car was new. You will get as many tyre recommendations on here as there are forum members. One thing I would say though is that when you get new tyres fitted they always feel like a significant improvement over the worn out ones and I do think that some of the initial impressions of different tyres are more to do with that than the actual tyre brand. Also Lexus (at least my dealer) is always cheaper than any of the local tyre shops so maybe worth enquiring at yours? Of course you may have some particular needs that a different tyre will serve better (such as snow etc) or other experiences.

Just done the same myself - 4x new tyres and a 120k mile service so no rush at the moment

Did you see what Sainsbury’s was as it had crept lower than BP again and was £183.9 last I looked when BP was £185.9

Agreed I was more referring to manual transmissions with the jerkiness word - but there is still a stepped power curve in traditional autoboxes during acceleration regardless of DSG etc - they are not totally seamless and therefore don't work at maximum efficiency. The e-cvt is an engineering answer that is incredibly simple and elegant - but people being people don't always choose with the head but sometimes the heart. And of course nothing wrong in that - keeps innovation flowing and interest in society.

And overly complicated and so more likely to be prone to failures - the simplicity of the e-cvt and it's engineering elegance is IMHO one of its unsung strengths...

IMHO it's two-fold: a) what people are used to in their traditional manual/auto cars - personally I don't find the e-cvt at all offensive and like you say I now much prefer the smooth power delivery with no jerkiness knowing the drive train is working at maximum efficiency at all times - and yes, it does bring a smile at traffic lights sometimes to me too as I glide away while the car next to me drops back as jerks through a gear change... b) the motoring press that have until recently lambasted the e-cvt because it was "different" without appreciating / reporting the benefits (and shear simplicity and elegance of the e-cvt over any other gearbox) - this has influenced many people (including other lazy journalists) to report the same without even trying it in every day motoring (not just on a race track!)

In essence yes, on the Lexus you can manually initiate the pseudo 6 gear shifts which control the engine revs and give the feeling that gears are being changed. It is however purely aesthetic and in fact not as quick or efficient as allowing the e-cvt to do its own thing. However, for some people it gives them a feeling of more control - though after some initial playing with this I have never bothered using it since...

Had a NX 350H courtesy car a few days ago while my car (IS 300h) was in for a service and was very impressed. IMHO much better than the older NX 300h which just didn't "do it" for me - drives and rides better and that bit more power makes a big difference for me. Just asked about what delivery times are like if I ordered a new one and was told around 12 months, so still no improvement over what others seem to be experiencing in this thread... As we will be going through a "life change" soon - moving towards retirement and to a more country location over the next 12'ish months - the NX 350h could be a good replacement for my current IS 300h. Difficult decision whether I start the buying process soon or leave it until we are more sorted given those delivery times...!

When we had a car written off we were asked if it had a personalised registration and if so to put it on retention before the claim is settled. Otherwise one loses the rights to use the registration and it passes with the vehicle to the insurance company.

To make it feel / sound like a traditional gearbox - however that would be less efficient as the cvt would then be working in steps rather than keeping the engine at peak efficiency all the time. The e-cvt in Lexus has a set of 6 steps to simulate 6 gears (use the paddles or gear lever in S) - however in pure performance it's actually slower to use these than just hold the accelerator to the floor and let the e-cvt allow the engine to work at maximum. This was all tested in F1 some years back when the cvt was shown to be faster than a traditional gearbox but they were immediately banned - many believe because there was no traditional gear change sounds which would alienate fans...

Both my wife and I have similar personal reg numbers - had them for some 30 years and changed them onto numerous cars - best thing is I never forget either of our reg numbers whenever I need to let someone know... And as I get older that's getting even more useful... 😂

Yes, so long as it was all working (i.e. not lit) before one of the tyres lost pressure thus activating the tpms, then after inflating the tyre(s) back to the correct pressure and driving around for a bit the tpms light should go out until a tyre once again loses pressure below the threshold. This often catches people out when we get into cold winter months as the tyres may loose enough pressure in the cold to activate the tpms warning and just require extra air in them for the cold weather and the tpms light will go out again. Before doing a reset it's definitely worth just having a drive around for 10 miles or so if all your pressures are now to spec (I assume you used a decent gauge - not at a garage or service station - and the tyres were cold when checking/inflating). If that doesn't work then consider double checking tyre pressures and doing the reset (which will then reset the tpms trigger point based on your current tyre pressures).

OK - in my experience so long as you don't want to reset the pressure at which the tpms warning is triggered then simply inflating the tyres to the correct pressure and driving around for a while will see the warning light go out (didn't need 30 miles, probably 10 at the most) assuming that all was OK previously. If you want to reset (change) the pressures at which the tpms comes on then yes, inflate all tyres to their correct pressure and then press the reset button (under the dash) and drive around for a while for it to register.

If the warning light came on then you have low pressure in a tyre (or possibly a fault). Check all pressures and inflate as needed and go for a drive and the light will reset if it's tyre pressures. The reset should only be done if you want to change the pressure at which it illuminates. The rest button is quite well hidden under the dash under the steering wheel.

The issue is that by government(s) MANDATING what we can buy new (so zero emissions) this has allowed the car manufacturers to take the opportunity to reset the price point (and their profitability) of a "normal" car - I don't expect any EV to ever come down to the price of the equivalent ICE anymore. We will all simply end up paying a lot more for the pleasure of driving an EV...

Having driven a few facelift cars though I couldn't feel any difference to my 2014 car in that respect and so it's not something that I would say makes a great deal of difference for someone now deciding between and pre and post 2017 model - given the cars they are looking at are around 5/6 years old more important are the condition and history of the car and maybe the spec depending on what the OP feels they need/want.

Not big differences - 2017 was just a facelift. Trim designations changed and so what was included in each level may need some research - but from a driving point of view, mpg etc. very little difference. I would look for the best your budget will stretch to regardless of whether pre or post 2017.

I think this is a very good article - yes, move towards zero emissions but let the market decide how that is achieved based on needs: https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/features/evs-arent-only-answer-toyota-scientist-future-cars