paulrnx

Doesn’t really matter what the pressures were nor whether each tyre had the same pressure or different. You pump them up, check pressures and reset the TPMS and it starts monitoring from this measured reset point. The whole point of resetting the TPMS is to reset the measurement point at which each individual is then monitored from. If the pressure drops in one or more tyres from that reset point, the TPMS will then trigger. I’m pretty sure this is how it works. It has to be the case when you think about it. If running a full load you would add air to the tyres and reset the TPMS to measure from this increased setting. The TPMS doesn’t measure from and report a deviation to some factory pre-determined pressure, it measures from and reports deviations to the pressure in each tyre at the time of the last reset.

Better to invest in a tyre pressure gauge. The gauges attached to pumps are not that accurate in my experience. Not sure why pumping up to 36 psi has now fixed the problem given that you were resetting the TPMS before? You could have all four at 32 psi and they should still register no issues if you’d reset the TPMS at these pressures.

With the hefty windscreen excess charges nowadays and the fact that it is then treated as an insurance claim so you get stung at renewal time up to the point where you’re considered claim free again, I’m of the opinion that finding a reputable local company to do the work and paying for it myself is a better way forward. Find out who the local dealership uses and use them. I did this for my last IS300 that needed a windscreen. I’ve had bad experiences with Autoglass too.

Hi Phil. Do these fit over the top of the cup holders to blank off the holes underneath or do they fit into the bottom of the cup holders to form a new base?

Yeah I agree. Charge the battery or use the car more to keep it charged up. Then see if this fixes it. I’m working from home full time, have been since last March, but I’ve found it is possible to ensure my car is used at least twice per week. Of course this might be down to a faulty alarm or sensor.

It was one of the reasons that led to me swapping my IS for an NX last July. The roads where I live can be dreadful in places and I just ended up driving around watching out for potholes. I buckled an alloy dropping into a pot hole that was covered with water. There was a bit of water right across the road and it was impossible to see it. There are way too many pot holes on our motorways too.

Nice car that! Been looking at a UX300e for my wife. Doubt we’ll get one now but probably will do in 21 months when we retire. Will give me chance to see how reliable they are. Also how they fare as a used buy. Beautiful looking car though. Look forward to hearing all about the ownership experience.

Reminds me of a bird strike I had in a 2nd generation IS250. I managed to get most of it out from through the smashed grille or at least I though I had. When the dealership dropped the cover out from under the car to replace the grille the poor technician got covered by the remnants of the bird.

Could well be the tyres. If not, potentially a slight buckle/warp in an alloy wheel.

Warped wheels can also be fixed. It’s a simple test by a wheel repairer that has the right kit. I’ve had a warped wheel fixed by Reinventing the Wheel at Tewkesbury. They measured it with probably something like a dial test indicator to check it was warped. They then used one of their wheel presses to press it back into shape. I think they use a bit of heat to soften the alloy first. Never had any issues after and it did cure a slight wheel wobble that couldn’t be cured by balancing. Car was a 5 litre V8 Jaguar XF. Alloy wheels are quite soft anyway and can go out of shape what with the state of our roads. I was shocked to find out recently that a tyre being compressed against the side of a pot hole at speed can provide enough force (from the compressed air at the point of impact) to buckle a wheel. It doesn’t have to be the wheel itself hitting the pot hole that causes a buckle.

Not quite. A flat spot would be if a tyre had been dragged across the road in a locked position causing a flat spot of worn tread or at least tread that wasn’t as deep as the surrounding area. My understanding when I looked into it more was that it was possible for some tyres to wear in an uneven manner around the circumference. Probably gives the same effect though.

RIP. As above, quite something with that van around the Ring.

I liked him and some of his various exploits made great reading. He could go on a bit mind! 😀

I’d agree that the Lexus OE boot protector feels a bit cr4p. Too hard and too easily marked for me. I’ve had one in both of my NX cars. If I needed to buy one I’d buy an aftermarket one for sure.

Based on my past experiences of similar with both an A4 and a Jaguar XF, my money is on tyres that have worn slightly out of round at a point in their life. In both of my cases, replacing tyres fixed it. If you’re feeling it through seat of the pants I’d say it’s the rears. If you’re feeling it through the steering I’d say it’s the fronts. You could try swapping rears and fronts around to see if the symptoms move. A decent dealership or a professional tyre outfit should be able to run some tests to see if one or more of the tyres have worn out of round. Balancing an out of round tyre makes very little difference because the tyre circumference is no longer completely circular. Hope this helps a bit.

Not quite the same as home insurance really. Home insurance would equate to normal car insurance. That said, £120 for 4 years cover is worth it I’d say. £30 a year or £2.50 per month is pretty good value 👍

Great stuff! Hope you enjoy your new car 👍

Sounds like a good price for four years cover 👍

Maybe try to drive the test drive car on as many different road types as you can and at as many different speeds as you can. If necessary, then repeat the same test in your own car after as a comparison. Road noise is a bit of a bug bear of mine I must admit.

My first car was a Hillman Hunter GLS. Quite a car in the day. A 1973 model purchased in 1980. I did all the maintenance on it myself. Happy days. Cars had to be carefully run in years and years ago but less so nowadays due to better materials, better design and more accurate manufacturing processes. That said, I think it still pays to run a brand new car gently for the first 1000 miles by avoiding maximum acceleration. Mind you many years ago, about 30 to be exact, I worked with a guy who treated his own company cars with complete disdain. He’d drive them very hard from day one and not give a damn about any running in periods. It was very noticeable that his cars performed slightly better than mine when comparing model for model. Trouble is they were also a bag of nails at three years old and 90k miles whereas mine always felt quite a bit tighter and fresher at the same vintage

A lot depends upon one’s attitude to risk. I’ve purchased 6 brand new cars during the period that gap insurance has been available. Never once had to make a total loss claim in that period. Probably saved a packet in gap insurance premiums along the way.

Good news! On two fronts - the decent repair and the reimbursement! 😀 When you look at a wheel and very low profile like this it is easy to understand how they get damaged by pot holes. Not much tyre sidewall in comparison to the wheel size. Watch out for those pot holes!! 👍 A great result. Glad you managed to get it done for a reasonable price.

Especially given the oil is probably fully synthetic. Agreed that 6 months / 6k miles servicing seems a bit extreme. Bad enough that Lexus have 10k / 12 months intervals. Still a lovely car the Stinger imo

I’d recommend more than a few km to charge the battery if you can

5 more sleeps! 😀