Texas

Seems a quality car but serious money! does anyone know the location (approx even) of this dealer? paul m.

Not doing yourself any favours posting comments like that. paul m.

Proper screen wash liquids (alcohol or spirit based) also act as an anti-freeze additive when added to the resivour. "Been there Done that" in years back when first motoring I have had a washer pump split due to no anti-freeze additive in the screen wash - water only=bad move. paul m.

Another 'worst' thing you can do is squirt Washing Up liquid in there as a substitute for genuine screen wash as this tends to sink to the bottom of the tank and congeal into a goo/sludge that might foul up your low level sensor. paul m.

Just a note on this 'problem'. In the past when I have had this 'gurgling' noise in the coolant system after changing the thermostat for instance to expedite any air removal I have used a local (non fee!) high rise car park and after running up and down in there a couple of times it dislodges the air pockets! Paul m.

I am not yet au fait with the IS250 to the level of others on this forum who may have more learned advice but the water pump should push the coolant around the system at a rate to hopefully dislodge any air pockets and eventually the problem should subside. Use of the cabin heater may assist in this as the coolant will have more flow, just keep an eye on the coolant level like I said as it will drop as the air moves higher, I am thinking that after the pump was changed the coolant was not refilled in the prescribed manner ( with a temporary header tank while engine is running) and was just refilled probably without engine running. paul m.

Water pump changed you say? Then I would put money on the 'sloshing' noise you can hear is air pockets moving around in the coolant system, this is not normally a problem unless somehow any coolant temperature sensors end up being in an 'air pocket' in which case the sensors will not detect the true temperature of the coolant and may cause some other errors to be flagged up. "They topped it up with coolant too so low coolant doesnt seem like it would be the cause." Have you checked the coolant level now? One thing I do suggest is that you keep a careful eye on the coolant level in the near future as any air pockets when flushed around to the expansion tank will be replaced by coolant and therefore the level will drop. You are not loosing coolant it is just totally filling the coolant system. paul m.

Got to add to the feeling on Chinese sourced plugs, noooo! Don't even think of putting them in your pride and joy, imagine how you would feel if after a time one of them decided to let go of an earth electrode and it then rattled around in the cylinder trashing the piston crown, chipping the valve rims not to mention the state the bores would be left in. How cheap would these (prob fake labelled Denso) plugs work out then. paul m.

So I gotta ask, how does the smart Lexus know the exact location (not distance) of the key, precisely weather the key in Inside or Outside of the boot, as if in pocket outside of car then they could actually be closer than in inside the boot up against the rear seat backs? paul m.

So pray tell What did the rac man ( I assume it was a geezer!) do to fix it in 15 mins? paul m.

I think I would have a punt at doing this myself if I ever had to after watching this vid, it's not really rocket science is it and aisin pump can be had for £111 from Eurocarparts IIRC.

I reckon he plays poker!😀😀😀 some causes of high CO http://www.smogtips.com/failed-high-carbon-monoxide-CO.cfm paul m

You mention using the Toyota Red grease, if this is the grease that is used in the manufacture and subsequent service dept's on these calipers then I would seriously think about getting something better as it seems to not work very well with all the reports of calipers (slide pins) seizing up. I would be tempted ( and I will use this in the future ) to try something like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252530898001?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT paul m.

Chances of getting pulled over for no Mot are pretty slim, no insurance that's another ball game! You don't actually have to go speeding to 'Italian tune' your car and risk getting a speeding ticket ( via any speed cameras) . Just hang onto each gear a little longer than normal (if it's a manual that is) as it's the revs of the engine that's gonna do the work inside the engine not the actual forward speed in MPH if that makes sense. paul m.

Hi, first post having just joined the LOC (technically not actually an owner yet!) because I am actively looking for a IS 250, I have been an active forum member (user Paul05149) on the TalkFord web forum for a number of years in relation to the Mondeo MKIII and it gives my great pleasure in helping owners diagnose and sort problems on their vehicles so I do have a insight into what actually happens under the bonnet but I draw the line at DERV's as there is a lot of silly pressures and its hocous pocous sometimes for an home mechanic to diagnose let alone fix! so now I am about to retire from work I want to treat my self to a nice motor and step up to a Lexus and after doing some homework around this site it reinforces my thoughts into staying clear of the heavy oil versions! So on the hunt for a as good as I can get for my budget IS250 SE-L (mm) but back to the quote I have dragged down, please can you explain this as I understand the bit about not revving too high ( if oil level is too high then when the crank rotates it may dip into the surface of the oil level -now above normal-and at high speed could whip the oil up into a foamy state and cause havoc with ring blow by and also blowing any crank seals) but what I don't understand is the 'excess oil should be burnt off' how? I would be upset if my Lexus burns of oil to any appreciable level! And if it does won't it continue to burn off and not actually stop at the level you want. paul m.