Texas

No ML or SatNav also means no reverse camera, no phone and no voice control features. This would not be acceptable for me anyway when choosing a Luxurious motor. Yes mileage is low but price is high for what you are getting. This car was registered on 19 March 2008 so unless it is currently under an extended warranty contract ( which can be renewed) it is Too old to Take one out now! By day's I know but the stipulation is tens years max ( to the day ) also history also mentions damage to windscreen in Zone A, if not still there then may have had the screen changed! paul m

Right, probably do it that way then ( when LED's arrive) by going it throu the light bezel.

I have watched that video ( a couple of times!) but my overhead lighting unit is slightly different as I do not have the sunglasses holder but a plain panel instead, it is this panel ( I assume is covering the two fixing screws) that I would like to remove preferably without damaging it. Can't find a vid of this type being removed and I don't intend 'attacking' it like the butcher in this 'How (not) To' video My Front overhead light module. Plain panel at bottom needs removing to reveal screws I guess? Anyone removed this panel and got and tips as it is quite snug! This is what it could end up like if you just get in there with the wrong tool and no knowledge! gonna wait until I find out exactly how it dismantles! paul m.

OK..... So does it open with a nice soft plastic trim tool easy enough? paul m.

So..does that mean to remove the light module it is clips only and the non-glasses holder ( Euro spec) type does not have the two screws or are the two screws still there but accessed differently some how? haven't got the LED's yet but trying to anticipate the removal. paul m.

Need to allow car to idle for a long while ( cabin heater on cold to assist ) to get engine upto temp and check that the stat is opening to allow coolant to flow to rad and get cooled and then later fan should kick in as there will be no cooling from forward movement. check ( carefully) that all hoses you can get your hands on are getting Hot. The symptoms you have are pointing towards a stat that is not opening fully, this can occur due to stat failure or if the incorrect concentration of engine coolant Is used and the stat gets corroded and sticks. paul m.

I have always thought that the engine itself should be serviced according to use and that use can be best determined via revolutions of the crankshaft and not really the actual number of miles the car has travelled down the road. paul m.

Known as the 'Valet' button. It is so that when you give the valet parking guy your keyfob ( with key blade removed) they can open/start/drive and lock the car but cannot get access into boot area if you so wish by locking the glovebox with the key blade. paul m.

I know that, you know that but at 60,000 or six years the service schedule states 'replace plugs' If I would have owned the car back then and was having this service done then I might have asked to have the 'used' plugs returned to me for future use because you are right 22k for a set of Denso Plugs is nothing! Some items do need replacing due to age as opposed to miles ie Brake Fluids but plugs will only really deteriorate due to actual use. Paul m.

Just checked my service history via 'My Lexus' and it shows the plugs were done on my 250 after 6 years and at 22,000 miles!! paul m.

Yes 'PooBucket' or 'PhotoBlockit' has ruined a great number of forum threads on various topics containing an absolute goldmine of technical information for the world to see and gleen from, they ain't silly and tried using this 'control' posistion to maximise profits but seem to have just got themselves a very poor reputation amongst forum users. paul m.

My 250 was the First car I have bought with Less than 100,000 miles on the clock! Having said that a well looked after 250 would be able to cover Twice that sort of mileage easily and I would be looking closely at the car itself and not focus too much on simply the mileage, sure to do this amount of miles it must have been 'used' but there is being used and bring ab-used! So check it over for usual signs of wear and tear but being a Lexus it ages very well as you know. spark plugs ( x6 of course!) should have been changed at the 60,000 service point and through a dealer this is a costly exercise but plugs themself can go on for upto 100,000 quite easily. If you are handy with spanners plugs can be got for about £80 (genuine) and DIY is not impossible. Don't expect to see a massive/if any increase in MPG compared to your 200 as I see you are in London! paul m.

Also if your brake fluid is a bit off colour shall we say, the unscrupulous could just syphon out the discoloured fluid from the resivour and top up with new, this will have the appearance of good fluid in the system but 99% of the fluid that is going to be doing the work will be the old stuff! paul m.

Brake fluid 'test' is just a visual examination for contamination, cap will not be removed. paul m.

Tell him you want to get in front of it soon as! You don't have to buy it but try and be first in the queue! just noticed is it an SE-I or an SE-L as the letter L can get lost in translation sometimes ( mostly an i gets confused with an L funny enough!) model specs here: https://www.honestjohn.co.uk/carbycar/lexus/is-2005/?section=history paul m.

As far as I have read the heated seat problem is a common fail and owners can forgive it's failing ( it's the flexing of the seat fabric apparently and the heating pad is not seperatable from the seat itself) as the car makes up for it in lots of other ways, as you seem to be experiencing! paul m.

Could not resist....ordered..... what was the del time like? ( est is 13-18 Apr, therefore about 9-14 days) paul m.

That's the best bit about my Lexus, not gonna let someone else enjoy it! paul m

Top looking motor there, full of toys ( inc sunroof) but top money, compared to IS but different car really. Don't know much/anything about hybrid pre-purchase pointers. paul m.

Question? Apparently this initial very short rattle is due to lack of oil in the very upper areas of the valve train and as soon as oil is supplied it subsides, this lack of oil is due to drain down due to gravity and so I ask do you park you 250 on any sort of incline to exacerbate this? The reason I ask is that I have to park on an incline and have parked both ways around and have only had this rattle once or twice, but can't remember which way the car was and how long it had not been used for! In the US there was a technical bulletin for a fix offered for this rattle but some who had it 'fixed' reported it came back after a while! Paul m.

Date code for the Bosch is explained at end of thread linked above. paul m.

Has it still got the factory fit battery? It would be a black topped Panasonic. Did it need any topping up prior to you charging it? If your 250 is 2007 year then if you have still got the factory battery then this is a sign of it about to give up completely. A recent ( quite lengthy! Get the kettle on!) thread covers most you need to know about getting a replacement battery. https://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/107731-best-12v-battery-for-is250/ paul m. pic of Factory fit battery Release Date of Battery is on end of yellow label

Just done some searching and found this, have a read and try the foot to the floor technique, again no cost easy operation. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-2nd-gen-2006-2013/666927-is250-won-t-start.html paul m.

OP states that the Starter Motor is running for about 6 seconds but car is failing to fire up, this means for all intents and purposes the car wants to and is able to run but something has failed ( not battery, immobiliser, or any starting procedure interlock ie foot brake/Park posistion) it tries to start for about six seconds then stops to protect starter from overheating/draining battery if engine has not fired up in this time. paul m.

I did think about suggesting another key but dismissed this as the OP states that the starter motor is running and I don't think this would occur if it was an immobiliser problem. I would put my money on fuel problem or a sudden failure of a critical electrical component if car was fine when last used, very strange! gotta make sure a potential fuel problem is eliminated first by putting in a gallon/can! And resetting by disconnecting the battery is a good ( easy, no cost) call. paul m.