Texas

If you do go ahead with the one in Leicester, then I would remove that annoying/pointless sticker, some Herbert decided would look Good, on the back window using a hair dryer sooner rather than later as once it hardens and goes brittle it ain't never coming off! As for the Vline kit, I am very close to going for that as an upgrade for mine, bit expensive but might just treat myself! Shame that baviaannl never done a 'How to" with pics when he installed his 😀. Having said that if I do go for it I too will prob just want to get it installed perfectly and will 'forget' to document it!!!!! paul m.

You do seem to find some irregular cars/sellers. I know buying a car is a minefield and you don't want to fritter away your hard earned but again I would not be comfortable with this, dunno why, just wouldn't, gotta be a normal car/seller out there for you!! paul m.

As my old nan used to say "plenty more fish in the sea" so if this is always gonna be niggling in the back of you head every time the car misses a beat or a rattle or creak shows up then can you live with that? You have done more homework than most people do when buying a car so you ( I think) want to be satisfied it's a good 'un. Unlike the poor soul in this thread who lost I think £5k. What you have uncovered is, like you say, very rare in the petrol version but if if was the DERV, well that has got a blemished history when it comes to Head Gaskets. Can only think something went drastically wrong that was prob not user error or Lexus won't have stumped up. Yes the engine might be New but you are buying the car as a whole so like I said need to stand in front of it and make a decision and at what price. But me personally I would learn by this 'research' log it and move on... paul m.

I would not lose any sleep over the fact that the plugs have gone past the 60k mark! ( Lexus service schedule actually states 60k or six years which ever comes first!) if the car is running fine at the moment then no rush to do plugs, If you let Lexus spanners do it you won't get much change out of £600!!! But if you are handy with a socket set then plugs ( X6 genuine) can be got for about £80 ( eBay No tel:183333810155 ) Not the easiest of cars to do the plugs on and prob gonna take a few hours but you do not have to break into the cooling or AC system and any gaskets you come across are silicon so should be reusable with care. Note: over in the US plugs regularly go upto 100k before being swapped out. As for the paint flaws then that would put me off, but you need to go and stand in front of the car and see the overall package and decide if you are willing to take it on! If you got the car for 4K say and spent a few hundred getting it sorted you could end up with one smart car that's ( God willing) gonna last you a good long while with all the toys! paul m.

So aux belt was changed at 80k, on 100k now so if not an OEM or quality belt that was fitted then it might be starting to deteriorate and gotta be the cheapest/easiest place to start (even with LPG kit!) paul m.

I had an 'Advisory' for 'cracks' in the tyres ( between tread) on my daughters Fiat 500 and to my they were very badly cracked so they must have to be horrendous to actually fail! The tyre might/should have a date on it in the format of week/year ie 16/13. paul m

'What he said'...especially the door card bit! I too fitted the device and apparently there was a change of wire colours during production which threw the printed instructions a bit sideways! All sorted in the end by using the courtesy light supply in the bottom right of the drivers door. So yes for the price I also would give it a punt. If/when you go for it and have any doubts you can always post any 'instructions' that came with it. paul m.

List of part No's for rear bumper assembly here, but no pics to double check part you are actually after! https://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_E_2009_LEXUS_IS250~350~2xxD_GSE20R-AETLHW_5202.html In the eBay ad for the clip(s) posted above the OEM part No quoted does not appear in Toyodiy.com list? paul m.

I think the original inventor/developer/vendor of the PO-40 module was an Australian ( can't recall his name right now) and his back up technical help service via email was superb. Alas sadly I think he may have 'moved on' to other projects and the device/principle may have been copied by the Asians, to what quality control level I do not know but I suspect that the original prob came from round there anyway! paul m.

Prob one of the easiest jobs to do on the 250 that can have a instant and noticable effect. location of the sensor on the 250 ( Petrol!) below,

If he's that confident then he should be getting you in contact with willing 'satisfied' previous customers! To clinch another job! paul m.

Auto boxes were not an option for the heavy oil engines! paul m.

Yes, I too can't understand the 'not working any more' bit, it's not like there is something to 'wear' out but it could be the build quality is not very robust and after a while the stitching perhaps 'gives' a little and it is enough for it to no longer be totally radio wave encapsulating? paul m.

Kwik-Fit... Hhmmmmm... I guarantee that they will find something 'wrong' with your exhaust but then again they won't have one on the shelf to sell you so let us know what they do actually say. re-wind...you just said it passed an MOT ( with no EML on!) so exhaust is in a serviceable condition. Note: the factory fit exhaust on the 250 was heavy gauge mild steel and not stainless steel, these OEM exhausts can last a good number of years even when they actually look rusty, If you get a stainless system fitted at some point then be warned the sound is not going to be the same! paul m.

Dunno the exact torque setting spec but Because the plugs have a crush washer on them usually it's hand tight plus 1/4-1/2 a turn. They don't have to be really tight as such as they are not having to 'hold' anything in posistion, only themselves! I would not expect it to be more than about 20 lb/ft. paul m.

As above to check ( physically) the exhaust you need to get under car and inspect the complete assembly, use a bit of tissue paper and hold it around jonits to show if any gases are flowing out. Soot marks are a tell tell sign if it has been going on for a while. paul m.

RE the warranty, I reckon ( unless you have the conditions in writing and can check) that they might class these parts as 'wear & tear' items. I know that they are not exactly in the same group of 'consumable' parts like tyres and wiper blades but they are going to 'wear out' eventually! But then again you could say that about 99% of the parts on a car will wear out eventually! So I guess on Jan 3 you find out out 'good' the warranty is? That's if there is anything a-miss down under there? paul m.

The outer joints move a lot more in relation to the inner joints and therefore I would expect outer joints to wear out first. My 2001 Ford Mondeo has had a number of outer joints replaced along with the bottom ball joints ( not Genuine's I stress) but the inner joints have yet to be highlighted on an MOT sheet! Paul m.

Yes...but don't forget you are now Not going to slow down if you come up behind a slower vehicle. Don't ask me how I know this!! But it was a close call!!! So ACC all the time for me now. paul m

+1 on above info, but like I said if there is any noticable ( visually, audiolby or mechanically) wear then a decent MOT inspector should pick it up. paul m.

Can't say I have but my mot guy normally picks up on iffy bushes before I get to feel them going south! ( not on the 250 I must add) paul m.

Tyres pressures all OK ! As low pressures can give you a 'Spongy' or 'Wooly' feel on the road? Are you 'Feeling' something mechanically loose? With like a delay in road wheel action after you make an input on steering wheel ? more precise symptoms required I feel. paul m.

Apparently the Average age of a Lexus driver is 52, the average age of a Merc driver is 42 and For BMW it's 32! I think this speaks volumes for the 'civility' in this forum! paul m.

So am I reading this right that the shaft you got was the right one and just had to be extended a bit as it was sent 'fully' compressed? you would not want the shaft to be fitted/used in the fully compressed posistion as you would have no 'give' on the splines when going over uneven ground. I also guess that that wheel/strut was unsupported and not in the final riding posistion when trying to fit also. paul m.

I have mine on all the time but then I only done 2600 miles last year!!! So how much Time was that actually? paul m.