matt8

I wonder if a 12v source connected to the terminal in the bonnet (for jump starting) would suffice then?

Is there a procedure which one can follow before disconnecting and/or reconnecting the 12v battery, to avoid the dreaded black screen or dead unit?

Thanks. That’s got to be the best place to start. A good clean up. Though this does sound like a mechanical grinding. But worth a shot anyway.

Hi all Another issue for me. Car is coming up to ten years old (Sept 2013) and is immaculate for its age. However, it’s getting expensive to do these fixes. I’m one who has opted not to go down the dealer route and therefore have their warranty. Firstly, a new headlight needed last September. Then a new front bumper parking sensor failed. Air con is smelly at the moment. And now a grinding noise on the window. First two I sorted myself. Air con, TBC. This one, not sure. Noise only occurs when winding window down, for the last three quarters (first quarter somewhat normal). Winding window up, no noise. Was happy in taking the door apart myself to have a look but annoyingly, it needs a 12v battery disconnect. I am afraid of this due to other posts in the forum. I’m almost certain there’s nothing in there but happy to have a look. Reading about, it seems it could be the plastic parts in the motor giving up the ghost. No idea if that’s true. Going by what I saw at the below link, and a few others I can no longer find. Anyone else experienced this? I’ve not seen it posted here before. Search yields nothing. Any pointers appreciated. Is250c Grinding

Could be! Video attached above. Sounds like engine bay, a fan that comes on and off constantly. Maybe it’s OK. I've encountered a new issue (separate to the air con) today now however, will post later if I can.

Attached in the forum. Seems the upload service I used will delete it after 25 hours. I guess it’s a fan not a compressor. Fan on for 14 secs. Off for 5. Back on for 14. Off for 5. 474FA168-C2F9-45FE-BF88-C91FD15D6086.mov

Promised video. Thanks for any advice! Video Upload

Thank you! Any more info and symptoms of this please? I have no OBD errors. But it may not show there. If this is the case, what’s damaged, what needs fixing, and how significant/expensive is that job?

Thanks all! It sounds like it’s coming from the engine bay. It’s absolutely more pronounced when standing outside the car. Will try and get a video tomorrow. On the note of the air conditioning, I am tempted to try and clean the smell by applying the foam cleaner myself. Anyone got any tips for the Is300h? There’s spraying it upward into the condensate pipe but it seems to be sensible spraying it on top of the evaporator too.

Hi all When using the air con on the Is300h, I can hear a whirring noise starting and stopping every 5 seconds or so. Cycling on and off. Is it the compressor or something else? Will try and get a video My air con blows ice cold air. Aside from a musty smell that I’m trying to tackle, it seems good. However, I am now thinking this noise which has been going for a couple of years (and maybe longer, I just never paid attention) is not normal. Can you guys hear a whirring cycling noise? I read that it could be the refrigerant is low, but my cold temperature is excellent. Thoughts appreciated.

This topic is the reason I’m never touching my 12v battery again. Lexus can do it. Sorry you got burnt, @Paul Brooksbank

Thanks for the info. I’ve got a Jazz, 2013, without them. Not import. Is there some exception to the rule do you know?

Thanks Colin. Yes, more than 15 minutes. Those 6-8 weeks is to charge it to a level where the car itself is not able to. I do not drive long motorway journeys regularly but it is common for multiple 15 to 45 minute journeys three times a week at least. So indeed, it is not sat entirely unused for the 6-8 weeks. I will keep an eye on it and report any failed starts here.

Thank you. Every 6-8 weeks is my routine for trickle charging up to full.

Thanks chaps. I didn’t even start it, just put it straight back onto the trickle charger. Perhaps that was my mistake. I have the CTEK MXS 5. I can’t leave it permanently connected as the car is not garaged. Otherwise I’d have left it on for the weeks away. However, it has different stages and applies a higher amperage during the bulk phase (5A as noted, @Herbie), but applies lower voltages at varying currents, as the battery reaches full charge. I put it on to charge every so often just to fill it back up, allowing the charger to run its program. This battery, despite a low voltage today, has not failed me so far in the 3 years since I fitted it. It’s an AGM from Lexus Parts Direct so is “official” if that’s a fair term. It’s rarely left untouched for such a long time like it has been. I am wondering if seeing a drop so low (supposedly 30%) after a couple of weeks is deemed normal. Or am I likely to need a replacement soon. Thanks for your responses.

After a couple of weeks of being away, car sat still and not started, I’ve come back to a battery (which I fully trickled charged before leaving it for the 16 days), down to 11.81 volts. That’s about 30% in the AGM chart. What is everyone’s verdict? Is it a dying battery? I replaced it in Jun 2020 and fully trickle charged it every 6-8 weeks.

Definitely an issue with their systems and not your card. I’m surprised they haven’t faced issues their side with every other customer. Their integration with Sage has broken down somewhere. Might be worth trying another debit or credit card to prove to them it’s not your card.

Are you talking about the centre console and a blank screen after a battery change? I’ve seen and noted this on other member posts. But the first incident I saw here on the forums was where the dealer had changed the battery! So my point is, dealers are not immune from this and have no alternative procedure to what you or I might do. The person I was responding to said the dealer had told them they need to do a reset of the battery after changing it. If this is true, please can someone advise how this is done, and to what benefit?

Sounds like nonsense to keep the dealership pockets lined. I changed mine 3 years ago and all fine.

Sounds like nonsense to keep the dealership pockets lined. I changed mine 3 years ago and all fine.

Is it an AGM battery? The Is300h shipped / came from factory with an AGM type battery, and your Yuasa may not be that type. AGM batteries charge at a slightly higher rate. Further, they are designed for use internally with passengers, where a crash may splash acid. Under the bonnet, it’s not an issue. A non-AGM in the boot may cause injury to passengers.

There’s a cable that doesn’t have the three leads on the end, and is a 4-pole to 4-pole AV cable. These can be used by some models of raspberry Pis, old iPods could output video over one of these cables too, etc. So maybe more practical than a big DVD player those cables were once associated with, but still not very practical at all. Maybe there’s a converter that can convert digital USB C video to analogue video and pipe that in. I thought that might be a nice way to mirror my phone screen to the car, but this A/V source won’t show if car is moving. I am sure I saw an override to keeping that A/V source on but I have not dug any further.

Hi @agent_dess As far as I understand it, the 3.5mm audio input is also a video input. There’s a thread on it over here: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-3rd-gen-2014-present/739053-how-to-use-the-av-output.html

I think hrill is meant to be “grill” and so OP is not referring to a dashcam but rather a camera to help see a wide view of the road where the driver may not be able to see (e.g. pulling out of a driveway with limited view)

Removed bumper. Cleaned contacts. Tested. Still no better. Swapped the left side parking sensor with the right side one. They are identical and therefore interchangeable. Diagnostics threw up a different code, C1AE2. That is the center left front left parking sensor issue. That meant I had narrowed it down to the sensor and not the harness/cabling/sonar ECU. Replacing those would have been much more difficult. Popped new sensor in and all working again. Thanks for @agent_dess guide once again, despite having removed the bumper before, it was helpful to have something to refer to. I wonder what causes these sonar sensors to fail... Does it mean the other 7 (?) on the car may soon go. I hope not.