matt8

I have successfully enabled opening / closing of windows via fob using TechStream on my Is300h. So the option is indeed available.

Ouch. Thanks for the warning. How does this happen, do you know? £305 for an ECU replacement seems reasonable. Or was it just the fuse that was replaced?

I didn't know that but it must be so. A quick search (different Lexus model I appreciate) shows this is the case. See second post.

No programming needed that I can see in the installation manual. I've taken off the trim and seen the connectors myself, very easy to do. Lexus_IS_illuminated_Scuff_Plates_RHD_PT942_53140_AIM_003_097_0 (1).pdf

Interesting. Anyone else noticed this? I've not done the update yet.

Saved me a job! Thanks Capt!

Hello @wakhtar Any chance of me getting the same please? I'll have a tinker with it and see if we can get updates for all! Thank you

It's the F Sport. I have one and am getting what bigjimg gets. Not overly fussed though. What car are you going for instead @bigjimg?

https://www.lexus-tech.eu/GTS/Wizard/Step5-Software.aspx ;-)

Thanks John. Are you thinking this idea is completely wrong then, or is there some value to it for UK climate? Why would they recommend a different oil at extremes? I'm open to having my mind changed!

If the dealer tries to charge you, look up the word TechStream on the forums. By default this feature you seek is disabled, but with this software you can enable it yourself. The cable that connects the software to the car costs about £10. Far less than what the dealer may charge (perhaps £40-£100) I turned it on myself last summer. Easy to do. Turned it off in winter as it's a potential problem or risk if you open the windows unintentionally.

It goes against what the Lexus dealers would do, but after discussion with my mechanic, I had semi synthetic 10W-40 put in (instead of 5W-30 as Lexus would use). His theory is that Lexus and all manufacturers are firstly, in the business of selling and repairing cars, and secondly, want to attain the very best efficiency which should help them market and sell vehicles more effectively. The less viscous / more runny oil (5W) creates less resistance for engines than a more viscous / less runny oil (my 10W), therefore improving efficiency. When that oil heats up in the engine, you can imagine it gets thinner and thinner, perhaps to the point where it doesn't stick to all the components as best as it could / should. This decreased resistance helps manufacturers achieve improved efficiency and emissions ratings, but at the cost of optimal lubrication and therefore faster engine wear. A thicker oil may create increased resistance (therefore decreased fuel efficiency) but the oil remains more viscous at higher temperatures and remains adhered to the engine components it is intended to lubricate. Engine wear means more repair business and revenues at our expense. But this doesn't matter, the efficiency and emissions ratings have been achieved and increases revenues in repairs, or more regular car purchases. In fact, the manual recommends this 10W-40 oil rating when used under extreme conditions, but we both agreed this would be better for my car, even in non extreme use. His trained mechanic ear also tells him, that the metal clanging he can hear in engines on startup, can be removed by using a semi synthetic, thicker oil as I have. That 5W-30 drips down into the sump, leaving very little on the components at the top of the engine. The thicker stuff is less prone to dripping off. When you start the vehicle next time, there is more oil protecting the components than there would otherwise be if a thinner oil had been used. No more clanging. A bit of a conspiracy here, but felt plausible and a good choice. No regrets so far and no problems, even in the winter. Perhaps someone will cause me to change my mind with their comments.

I believe this is the case yep, so nobody else will be able to use your card! I'd be grateful for an image though, for the sole purpose of updating mine as well. Thanks!

Headlight Washer Nozzles

Try and unpair device and wipe all contacts out (as if you were selling the car and wanted to restore to factory settings). Re pair the phone. I'm running Oreo, albeit not on a Samsung device. It is a Bluetooth 5 device and causes me no issue. Isn't Bluetooth versions based on hardware, not software? There's backwards compatibility but that's not the same thing. Thus, Samsung couldn't just update it to Bluetooth 5 using a software update. I may be wrong.

Is it not just a quick adjustment to get this corrected? A very minor thing. Mine also failed on this basis, adjustment was done by the tester and was retested immediately. Pass issued. What did they charge £95 for?

I agree, I failed to state I felt it was unrelated. Definitely the pads. Are the pads you mention ceramics? Can one use ceramic pads with metal discs? I'm assuming you can also buy ceramic discs.

My theory is that ceramic brakes would sort it. I've yet to put them on to prove that. Dry summer weather and it's no problem. Any rain though and I have that issue. My mechanic suggested not using the handbrake and rely on Park only. I don't like this however. My own research indicated using P could be putting too much strain on the parking pawl.

@darrude - Any photos to share / show what you've done and what felt you used please?

I have the same, they are great chargers! The eyelet connector it comes with shouldn't require you to use any other bolts other than what's on the positive and negative terminals already though. How have you connected it? I ended up purchasing one of these (the enclosed one was fitted to another vehicle). It has a battery indicator level on it and is also fused in case any surges hit it. Unlikely I know. Shame, price has nearly doubled in less than a month since I purchased. Some reviews say inaccurate, but I was most interested in the fuse. Plus, the one with the indicator was cheaper than the one without one! https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B002MT8S7E

Why half a tank sorry?

See attached for installation PDF for illuminated sills. Lexus_IS_illuminated_Scuff_Plates_RHD_PT942_53140_AIM_003_097_0.pdf

Hi Sheamus I mentioned to the dealer who cleaned the tracks and silicon sprayed it for me when it was in for other work. It helped a good amount, still some squeak on occasions albeit less.

I get this on my car but it's more of a ping noise. I thought it was the handbrake but I left this off and still get it. After some reading around online, relying simply on Park mode is not good but that's another matter. A lot of strain on the "parking pawl" I've concluded that the discs and pads are rusting and bonding to each other when left sat. Even without the handbrake squeezing the calipers and holding the pad to the disc, there is still some contact. All it needs is a bit of wet weather and time. If it's wet but I've not left it long (eg. Just a few hours since last drive), or it's completely dry (Summer) then there is no issue. My theory but I've yet to do it (as my brakes don't yet need changing) is that putting on ceramic pads will stop it. The discs will still rust but the pads won't. I imagine it's highly unlikely a rusted disc can bond to a piece of ceramic. I'm told the ping is not good for the calipers so I do want to do this change ASAP. As expected, Lexus advised me they do not offer any ceramic pads.

Thanks for sharing. Any further details? Police found the vehicle? I'll need to put my disc lock back on then now. For those that don't know, there's a key fob combination detailed in the manual to disable the spare fob broadcasting it's signal. You can then save your Faraday cage bag for the key you use day to day. You could disable the broadcasting signal between each use of the car but that may be too inconvenient for people.