matt8

Thinkware F770 but it’s an old model now. But still getting speed cam updates. Can’t recommend any newer ones as I’ve not tried them. I worry lots of new models come with unnecessary features like cloud storage and probably some AI nonsense. I helped a friend fit a budget Garmin dash cam recently. He had the hardwire kit that cost £20 and as part of that kit, it included a voltage protection setting on the hardwire kit control box. No extras and only £20 for the whole hardwire. Spending serious money on battery protection seems unnecessary in 2024, and comes across as exploitative to me. Manufacturers charging top dollar for extras that aren’t complicated at all!

Would have to be a big hole sadly but a good idea. Considering a 3D printed cover but not got to that.

Thankfully everything worked fine with IG1 not working. Brakes, brake lights, steering, etc., so not sure how important that fuse is. What doesn’t help, I forgot to point out, the tray under the passenger footwell is also currently off, as I’ve got leaking water due to AC drain blockage. Getting sorted this week. Maybe that’s why it was easier to kick off.

Worth noting. First incident in 7 years so not a common thing to pull out. Fuse taps all day long if you ask me. No wires need cutting!

Hello Yesterday my car was stuck in P mode and I could not get it into Drive. To make things worse, this happened at the petrol station, blocking a lane up. Firstly, I removed the physical key from the fob and used it to pull open a plastic tab next to the automatic selection stick. This exposed a switch which you can push in with the physical key in your fob, to override and unlock the automatic selection stick. At least I could then move off. Worried I had a more serious problem, I had a look around. I realised my other half had caught her feet by the fuses in the passenger footwell. Because I have used Fusetaps in installing my dashcam, the cover for the fuses is not able to be re-fitted. Her foot had pulled out the fuse I had tapped into, taking out not only the dashcam but also the IGI NO.1 fuse. Evident by it dangling down. If I had not seen that dangling cable, I’d have never have resolved it so quickly. If the fuse ever blows, you’ll be in my same position. So if you ever get stuck in P, the above will help you unlock it, and will be the first step to diagnosis: has the IGI NO.1 fuse blown? Hopefully you don’t all get stuck like me.

Recommend Thinkware. My camera installed in Feb 2017 is still going strong. And doesn’t need the extra box some Blackvue ones do, to turn itself off at a particular voltage drop on the 12v battery. It’s built in!

I had this issue. Sadly not. You don’t have to remove the bumper entirely but all needs to be detached to get to the back and unclip it. How do you know the sensor failed? OBD Code?

Hi @Mr_Groundhog How's your car doing nearly 18 months on? I am tempted to do this for my car still. I've looked at the video you posted. Parts are 48076-24010 and 48075-24010. One only needs to do the front right? There is nothing to do on the rear?

Any chance of a small write up and some photos please, @Notamech? 😉

Definitely ask what process is. A smart repair is an isolated touch up. Any photos? As someone above mentioned, is it structurally compromised? A proper job is the removal of current finish and a full finish. I’d be demanding this especially if the wheels were mint before. Might as well do all 4 at that point. You don’t want to take advantage but you don’t want the car to look odd with one wheel shinier than the other. I also change tyres in pairs. Unless tyre was very new, they’ll now have different levels of wear on the same axle.

More than separate buses, the simple thing to do would have been to apply encryption to the bus. Maybe posted elsewhere in the thread but an interesting read: https://kentindell.github.io/2023/04/03/can-injection/

I was referring to the TPMS sensors rather than tyres. I’d happily buy a tyre from almost anywhere. But fitting is a different matter.

The dealer wants the car to break so they’ll buy a new one. Or to buy a new car soon, and to devalue the current car which will be used for part exchange, with “incomplete” service history.

https://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/118184-switching-speedometer-from-mph-to-kph/

Parked it on a flat surface. Headlights to OFF position. No auto. Press power button twice (no feet on pedals) to get to IGN ON. Check fuel level / to determine number of clicks. Press power button once to turn car off. Press power button twice (again no feet on pedals). Pull stalk toward you (full beams) and hold. Whilst holding, rotate headlight on switch to on (see video above from 2:45) and off 3 times. Once done, headlight levelling indicator on cluster will flash on and off. It’s expecting your further input. Then rotate lights to ON (dipped) and off the required number of times depending on fuel level. After that the cluster will be flashing like mad, a little haywire. Switch car off and done. Took a few goes. Watch the video and read instructions. You'll soon get it! My thought is that the headlight positioning may need adjusting after 12v disconnected. Last time I did this (new battery June 2020) it was on a slightly downward facing driveway. Hence my lights aiming lower. Just a thought. No technical knowledge to back this up mind.

I performed this method as shown in the video. It worked (I got the flashing response on the cluster) and my lights seem better. Could it be placebo? Maybe. I didn’t measure where the light was but it seemed better. Time will tell. Club Lexus has this same procedure noted on the forum, a PDF. I found that hard to follow. The mistake I was first making was pulling the full beams flash (the stalk) before turning IGN to ON. IGN to ON first, then pull the stalk. Thanks for posting. Next step might be new HID bulbs. They are over 10 years old now.

What year is your car?

Oh! Misreading the date! Glad it was a good outcome. Those bushings seem easy to fit in that video. Was it simply changing those, toe correction and done? How much labour were you charged at the garage for fitting the bushings? Which tyre tracking did you go for out of interest?

Great! Keep us posted on how it goes. What date are you booked in)

https://www.rac.co.uk/drive/news/rac-news/how-the-rac-universal-spare-wheel-fixes-no-spare-breakdowns/ I had no idea these existed, good to know.

My understanding is, tyre shops hate this sealant. And the tyre is ruined if it’s repairable (I.e., a puncture). Can anyone confirm? Space saver makes sense but space is absolutely a concern. Would the recovery company not just tow you home or to a tyre shop, on the back of their truck? If a space saver is the way to go, will one fit either the front or back, with the differing tyre sizes?

Any recommended alignment companies in the Midlands?

How do you mean you removed the side padding? Any photos?

How much are wheel bearings parts, and typically how much labour time for fitting (per wheel)? Did you replace all 4?

There is a small sensor on the dashboard, that detects cabin temperature. As a first port of call, a little cleaning of that may help.