matt8

Gutted! A trick someone showed me in checking respray job quality is to observe the car from an angle, in sufficient lighting, to see reflections of whatever is on the floor / near the car. A good job should show no ripples, the reflection should be without distortion / waves. Sadly I found out our Honda had had some respray job done on it. It had no recorded accident history so I was disappointed to learn two door respray had taken place, by observing the ripples. To the untrained eye, it looks fine though.

Found two options in the car settings. Interior light time and exterior light time. 7.5, 15 or 30 seconds. Nothing in menu called welcome lights. Haven't checked Techstream. Personally, 30 seconds not long enough if I've stumbled onto the right option. 60 or even 120 would be good I think.

Perhaps there's no response because you're in the wrong forum. There's a separate RX forum that this would be better located within.

Thanks, will have a look!

Hi all Is it possible to configure the DRLs, Rear Lights and interior lights, so they stay on longer when unlocking the car? I feel they turn off too soon and the light is useful when it's dark. Can't see an option and nothing in Techstream either. Thanks Matt

I'm almost certain there isn't an extractor tool in the passenger footwell as the cover is so tight. It sits flush with the top of the fuses. May well be in the other...

I believe it was more than just a configuration matter, and in fact a complete new instrument cluster in order to change it. You are definitely right about it costing a fortune.

1. If it were in Europe, that may complicate it a little. However, I'd have thought it'd be much more straight forward if in the UK and you caught the incident. The only exception I can think of is if the third party were not insured which is a possibility. 2. Most cameras that have parking recording (not all do) will have a G sensor that detects knocks. Sensitivity can be configured on mine. Unfortunately, closing the door is enough to trigger it when leaving the vehicle. When I return to the vehicle and power up the car, it announces the number of incidents detected in parking mode. If it's more than one incident, I can go check the car. One can collect the footage via mobile phone, or taking out the memory card and inserting into the PC. There are some 360 degree dashcams on the market but I've no experience with them. My front and rear cam is better than nothing. A good bump to the side door would usually render an incident, a recording of them parking up, and hopefully enough to confront them or an insurer with.

Did applying 12v before you opened it make the PCB bubble possibly?

Good to hear the feedback and thoughts from everyone. Time to switch it back on then and dismiss what I've been previously told!

I used to have AC on permanently until a mechanic advised that it causes unnecessary wear on the AC compressor. Premature failure possible. Unsure if that's true but to be safe, I no longer leave it on all of the time.

I have the same aged car and same spec as you. 38 MPG since Jan 2018 over 5000 miles. That's not using what's on the dash, but what is calculated from full fuel ups and miles travelled. I used to force EV mode as much as possible but it's capped at 30mph, and I've realised this is not good. Stick it in Eco, and you can be running on electric for you to 40mph or so when conditions are right.

That's an old TomTom though. Pink was talking about Waze which uses live data to make re-routing decisions. Waze and other connected mapping software is unlikely to choose a new route if the saving is so small.

The hardwire kit comes with a 12v to 5v stepdown. So should not need anything else. I'd prefer to avoid tapping into wires, and instead just use the fuse taps. Ign no1 should be fine. The hardwire kit comes with a 2A fuse for the cam. I wrote a guide a while ago about running cabling to tbe interior fuse box, that should be helpful, I'd avoid the interior lights or mirrors if I were doing my car.

Same issue. I posted about it before. Never got to the bottom of it. I mentioned to dealer and they couldn't solve it.

How are they in the wet? Do you put winter tyres on or will these be used throughout the year, all seasons?

I connect directly to the battery in the boot. But rather than pull that cover off, remove the tyre goo each time, etc. I use one of these: https://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/garage-equipment/battery-chargers-jump-starters/ctek-comfort-connect-eyelet-m8 Very convenient. Welcome to the forum!

Great. £106.50 a tyre, fitted then. Seems very fair? And peace of mind with sensors being dealt with properly too.

Great feedback. How much were they for all 4? Fitted by Lexus?

The Ctek charger fails to work if battery is too far depleted. Had the same issue myself. When I get around to measuring the dimensions of my battery, I hope to get a recommendation from @Britprius about what disability scooter battery would be good to put in it's place.

I am curious to know what the expensive way of managing wheel geometry is, and where that expensive (and presumably better) way is implemented (which cars). Interesting!

Don't the dealers prefer major problems to arise, so they can sell you new cars and expensive repair work? Or they tell you of major things to come which may never come, or which are exaggerated, so you shell out? I don't believe any dealer will offer you the best service. They'll offer you a consistent-with-other-dealers service. An independent garage or individual mechanic with a real enthusiasm would provide a better service in my mind. They aren't easy to find though. The greasing of the guide / sliding pins on brake calipers for example; will never be done by Lexus or any other dealer during brake service (it's not on the tick list to do) but is well-known as something very important to do. The enthusiastic independent will likely do it! A friend who once worked for big Japanese name car dealer tells me of horror stories he observed. Oil changes ticked "done" but not actually done, with the attitude "if there's a problem in the future, we'll sort it under warranty, or sell an expensive repair." Etc. Some of the advantages the dealer has is the support of Lexus and good access to parts I suppose.

Ahhh, £8K for your car. I see....

£22,995 in original post.... You're a very good haggler!

I think it would make a difference, but only a very small one. And definitely not a difference worthwhile when considering the increased safety hazard, reduced tyre life, harsher ride, etc. Ever had an over inflated football? It bounces too much, there's reduced control over it, etc. It's no good. I certainly wouldn't pump my tyres above recommendation @New_Lexus_Fan