Farqui

Nah, the passenger temp is not a problem now the ambient temps are up (head is tucked in the sand!) For the cooler months, the Mrs now has a heated blanket...LOL! No mods planned buddy, power isn't an issue as the Sport button unleashes the devil and a big smile. Styling and alloys work well for me. I have a few niggles to sort out e.g. center console creak, cracked grill (I have a replacenent and hope to fit it soon), treat/paint calipers/disk bells and sort out the under carriage rust. Good to see that you are still keen to tweak' your ride ;)

The devil is in the detail, well done. Looks good buddy.

Hi Lucas, welcome to the forum. I'm sorry to hear that you have issues with your recent purchase, did you acquire the vehicle from a dealer (not necessarily a Lexus dealer)? If you weren't aware of the issue when purchasing the vehicle then you have the right to allow the dealer to resolve the issue at not cost to you. If you were aware then the purchase price should have been lowered in order for you to address the fault. Does the vehicle have a full service history? Or a full Lexus service history? When was the vehicle last serviced? Was this done by Lexus? If so, then they perform a Hybrid health check and if it passes will warranty the hybrid drive for another 12 months until the vehicle is 10 years old(140k miles?). The Hybrid system really needs a specialist to take a look and as John / @Britprius recommends, fellow LOC member Richard / @hybridbatterysolutions has a good working knowledge of Hybrids. Thankfully you seem to be able to use the vehicle, at least for now... Good luck resolving the issue and do let us know how you get on.

Personally I'd keep the chrome, I think it works well on the darker colours. If you really want to loose the chrome then maybe go for a smoke, something similar to your alloys.

With the car powered up, eject the old satnav disk, load the new disc and see if it updates okay. Mine went I to a loop and wouldn't eject, so powered off the car and disconnected the 12v battery. Left it for 10mins, hooked the battery back up, started the car and the satnav worked fine. See how you get on.

The suspension symbol on that beasty button means sooo much more!

Yup, you most certainly should. Don't flick it on with a car in front like I did tho...on the A1 in traffic, flick the switch and she pounced forward #eek

@mrdoofa, have you played with the Sport button yet?

Ditto, welcome to the forum. It's interesting to hear someone moving away from the 'mainstream' Germanic marques and settling on our nitch brand. I also follow a Civic forum and many Honda owners seem to moving to BMW's. Sorry to hear that you have an issue withe IS tho. Hopefully you can get it sorted without too much hassle. Good luck and enjoy.

I'd also recommend getting the tracking checked as it can easily knocked out. Poor alignment could result in excess tyre wear, added load/wear on the suspension bushes, increased fuel consumption, etc.

@Upex/Robert, its easier to coast on batteries when gradually easing down the speed and then holding e.g. down to 30mph through a village. Use very light throttle but you can still keep with the traffic flow. Try to keep the car flowing and moving as much as possible, coming to a stop will use more energy to get moving again. It's more difficult to use batteries from a standing start for long as anything other than light throttle will kick in my ICE. If the batteries have 9/10 bars charge then I can use more throttle on batteries and keep the ICE off. On a quiet road try just letting the car gently accelerate, it'll be slow but you'll find out how much throttle can be applied. Speed can be built gradually. There are also other factors to keep the ICE off, like engine temp being fully warm, cabin temp being set to an middleish 21c (less ICE warming and less A/C cooling needed), set the recirculation switch to auto, etc and I'm sure there are more. Also consider that any uphill effort often kicks in the ICE. Conversely, downhill can be used to kill the ICE. As said earlier the temptation to press the throttle and enjoy the power will soon sap your average mpg. Control is the key grasshopper!

I agree, use a rust converter first at the very least. I'm trying Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 on my rear disks at the moment. I ran out of time to do anymore, so it's been left open to the elements. It seems to be holding up okay and should work even better once painted. Pals rate it and I intend to apply it underneath my GS when I get a chance. Then over paint with something long lasting. http://www.bilthamber.com/hydrate-80

Yes, the postcode search is still there and your Gen5 is the same as mine. Definitely worth a punt at the price. I tend to get 40mpg+ on a run and around 36mpg average tank to tank. So your round town figures are about right. Once you've got more familiar with the car, then I'll reckon your mpg will improve too. Your ma is right, it's deceptive how fast your travelling.

The GS seats are comfy, glad to hear they are an improvement for you. The car is full of surprises, enjoy them all.

Ditto, me too

Martin, my DVD was out of date too and I opted for a version from LatestSatNav which included all the EU countries we frequent on one disk. The cost is also less than the official DVD's which come in 4 disks. Take a peek here; http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/75892-satnav-update/#comment-982538

Does it? I must have missed that nugget during my research. Not sure if I'll ever use it but it may come in handy if Le Shuttle has delays again.

Well done, I'm glad the trip and test drive went well. Do watch your speed tho, the auto box and silent running caught me out #sigh How do you find the eCVT?

Good point, TPMS was initially optional. Seems it became mandatory within the EU 2012/2014. http://www.techeurope.co.uk/tech/news/view/35/European-legislation-on-TPMS-imminent

Sticking the sensors in a pressurised box (in the boot) will keep any low pressure warning lights at bay. You can then fit standard/cheaper valves to your wheels that don't leak as easily as the TPMS ones. You will loose dynamic air pressure monitoring of your wheels tho.

Interesting figures, year on year comparisons would be useful too. Found them here; http://media.lexus.co.uk/2017/05/lexus-vehicle-sales-figures-1990-2017/ Isn't the comparison to BMW unfair as Lexus is a sub-brand of Toyota, but I appreciate your point about being exclusive. See what happens if you include Lexus + Toyota car sales.

My heated seats don't seem as hot as those in my Honda. I don't know if this is a normal temp for Lexus or not (yet). I have however seen some mention of a fix to boost the heat output, so maybe a fault. In my research, I don't recall any issues with the steering.

Good point re warranty, my dealer stumped up for a new exhaust on mine. Zoorsts have a tendancy to leak at the rear Y, visible from the rear of the vehicle. Mine also had a holed rear muffler. Details within my Intro thread.

If a hybrid moves off in Drive then the elec motors/battery are able to propel the vehicle (even if the engine is running). The MFD between the gauges can be changed to see the battery and power delivery. Once warm, the car should propel from stop on batteries alone. Also when warm, you should be able to lift off and the mpg's will rocket as the engine switches off, you should also be able to coast gently on batteries up to about 35mph. Press the Info button, Trip Info option to see the power train operation, in the middle is a battery symbol with bars showing the level of charge. This should do up/down as you drive around. When braking the kWh meter should flip into charge mode until about 25mph, then the hydraulic brakes should kick in. Maybe have a quick read of a hybrid manual before you go for a test drive, there's quite a bit to take in.

Sounds promising. The MOT history looks okay - nothing unusual flagged up and mostly passed okay.