Farqui

Check online here for compatible DVD's for your vehicle/satnav version; https://www.lexus-mapupdates.eu/ Once you have a compatible code then you can search the interwebs for alternative suppliers 😉

Johnathan, reduced braking sounds very scary and I can appreciate why you both now have no confidence in the vehicle. It's odd that an issue with the ABS/pre-collision system didn't still allow the actual brakes to slow the vehicle (rather than the hybrid motors), the brakes are one of the most important safety systems and should be tested above/beyond normal conditions. I'm no expert but I would have thought a warning with the pre-collision system would have resulted in the dealership testing and re-calibrating the sensor. I've read that these sensors can get confused if they're dirty, covered in snow or even wet. Does the vehicle have a grill mounted sensor for adaptive cruise control and emergency brake assist? Has the vehicle had any work done around the grill or maybe even had the tracking adjusted? I hope it doesn't happen again.

@fred81 / Fred, how bad are your headlights? Could you post up some pictures as I gave mine a quick polish by hand over a year ago and although they improved but still had some marks. Here are my earlier pic's and the lights look nasty again now, I didn't seal them - doh. So maybe I need to give then a good sanding and then polish / seal.

Impressive, thanks for updating us [emoji106]

Not that I've seen, there are vents under the seat that pickup the cabin air and duct that through your seat. If the cabin air is chilled or on recirc then you'll feel more benefit thru the seat.

I don't see why not as the ventilation is just a fan in the seat itself. So other than seats i suspect you'd need wiring to the center console switches - which would also need to be changed. Do you have cooled seats available somewhere?

I sourced generic gaskets for my exhaust which were economical and have lasted well. As you gave the dimensions check here https://www.clampcouk.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=ECEG323 Good luck and let us know how you get on.

Sorry to hear that you've had a bump and I hope that it's repaired quickly, to a good standard with the minimum of fuss. I presume you aren't seeing any fault lights on the dash or prompts on the multi function display? Might you be able to plug in an OBDII scanner and check for codes? What's the HV battery level like? Is the hybrid system still recharging the HV pack? It's got a bit colder recently and I presume that you've cranked up the cabin temp's, which will keep the combustion engine engaged for longer with less EV mode. Try lowering the cabin temps and see if EV mode engages more frequently/or at all. Modern vehicles often have a fuel immobiliser that engage during impacts (fuel cut off switch) which doesn't appear to be an issue for you. I wondered if some form of pyrotechnic fuse is present to disable the high voltage system? A quick Google hasn't turned up anything related to the GS 450h yet but I did find a cool emergency responder guide that's quite interesting, link.

Excellent news, I had no doubts that Dave would see you right and I hoped that the car would be put right, for much less than the dealers *ahem* 'estimate'. Fingers crossed that it's all sorted now.

Welcome to the forum. That's one heck of a steed, what's the spec?

Don't dismiss the heater matrix being blocked and only allowing fluid to flow through a small portion. As mentioned, I would try to gain access to both sides of the core to ensure it is heated throughout. I have flushed mine several times and several small particles were released and the heater works very well now. My heater worked well before so flushing is a worthwhile activity, especially on older vehicles. The heater servos do seem to be a common fault though, so you're right to consider those too. Can you find any heat with any combo of heat output direction? Does the heater fan work?

Sorry to hear that Paulius. The o2 sensors in the exhaust should unscrew and they're expensive to be near chopping and welding, so I'd want them removed. You'll need to swap them over if you buy a new section anyway. Mine looked rusted on but unbolted just fine, so give yours a try. Sorry but I don't know of any exhaust specialist on your area (Inverness). Hopefully someone else does. I had a custom middle/rear made up by Tony Banks in Leeds, as have several other forum members. Good luck getting this sorted.

Hey John, I Googled for Richards forum name to get his profile page. I was my phone at the time but the forum may well have a direct way to look up members?

Here you go https://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/profile/51991-hybridbatterysolutions/

Hi Barrie, here's a range of O2 sensors and their part numbers; https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/lexus,2010,rx450h,3.5l+v6+electric/gas,1444314,exhaust+&+emission,oxygen+(o2)+sensor,5132 A quick Google indicates back 2 sensor 1 is on the front of the engine underneath the coolant tank; https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-3rd-gen-2010-2015/841783-p0051-oxygen-sensor-bank-2-sensor-1-a.html Will you be investigation and resolving this yourself? Good luck.

Oh no, Dougie did so much work to that car 😞

You're welcome and i wish you luck. Do you know any tech wizz's that might assist? To be fair modern routers and local devices are getting easier to setup in this way. But I'd still recommend that someone knowledgeable helps/shows you.

You need to setup your router/etc to make the devices available on the internet, then you'll be able to access them from anywhere. It's not straight forward and depends on your hardware, your ISP, firewall, etc. If not done correctly then opening up access poses a significant risk to your home network.

Well done [emoji106] Did you see any wear that was a probable cause of your issue?

You must have loads of real estate compared to my hybrid

Maybe compare the position of the adjuster with the other/quiet side? You could adjust the damper manually if you can get something down inside to rotate the mechanism yourself.

Is the electronic adjuster seated properly? Maybe twist is off and have someone switch to/from Sport mode. The motor should rotate each time. Remember to reseat the adjuster in the same setting from which it was removed? I vaguely recall that it's supposed to be in Normal mode to remove.

Ah okay, so maybe the other side needs replacing now? Would be good to hear from someone who's had a damper fail properly (not just a dealer saying its leaking). They might be able to say if the dampers lock up? Were the dampers dry or oily?

Good, eliminating worn bushes is good. Sport mode will firm up the rear but i haven't tried bouncing it so can't say how firm is firm. Does it bounce more when the dampers are set to normal? Is the rear ride height similar to the front?

Are you certain that the cause is the damper? Have you checked the damper is solidly mounted top and bottom? It could just be a worn bush. Are the rear anti roll bar bushes and drop links all okay? The multi-link rear suspension has many parts that could cause knocking.