cornershop

Thanks everyone, will dip in an out to see how the new owner is getting on

Gents 2 years after taking ownership of my 98 LS400, I’ve now moved to the dark side having acquired a 2006 Jaguar x350 XJR. I was impressed by the Lexus, as it did everything I needed it to with aplomb. It was hugely efficient but not one to stir the soul and this is the primary reason for selling. Having moved from London to Woking during my ownership, there are decent roads on my doorstep, so driver involvement has become a higher priority. The Jag appears similarly refined, averages 30mpg (good for a 400bhp V8) and handles like a much smaller car - very strange sensations for a 1700kg car. The Lexus has gone to a LOC forum member (via Pistonheads), so hopefully it will continue to be enthusiast owned. I’ve enjoyed my time here. All the best Shirish

Both GM and Ford have the own oil spec requirement (eg m2c913-A/B/C for ford) it just means the Halfords oil meets that spec.

All oil recommendations should be invalid until the recommender has torn the engine apart and inspection pistons, cylinders, cams etc Of course, no one will do that, so when I see comments like “it’s a great oil”, I think ‘how can you say that without knowing what the engine looks like internally?’ “Tell me I’m wrong!”

I’ll cross post on Pistonheads for you

I use the Archoil 6200/6400 product and find it makes my 400 smoother and with better pick up at low-mid rpm.m; some low speed hesitation has also been removed. I don’t do many miles a year, so I’m thinking it improves combustion qualities of the fuel, which may off whilst sitting in the tank. As long as you stick to the dosage I don’t think you’ll go wrong; too strong a dosage can cause oil dilution, ie thinning of the oil - with a 5w/30 oil you can’t afford much thinning.

Hasten to add they perform well - apec discs and pads, no squeal, low dust etc. It’s just the cosmetics which are disappointing.

Brake and disks performing well but these pics show the difference between genuine Lexus front discs and aftermarket Apec rear disks. Hint - Apec are the rusty ones!

Why do you think that would that change anything? 🤔 Have you checked the basics - tyre pressures and wheel bolt torques (check manual)? Have you ruled out steering and suspension components? UCAs etc? Dont go spending money on tyres just yet.

Amayama - https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/4877059025 Think thats the part you need

Try swapping rear wheels with front. Could the wheel itself be buckled?

Strange, i thought they were ET45 too - could they have been different for the earlier cars?

Various sites suggest that 12.5 is anywhere between 75% and 90% charged - maybe an overnight charge would top it up - the 14.6 is about normal at idle

Check your temp sensor: https://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/topic/75957-1998-ls400-ect-sensor-removal-engine-coolant-temperature/

Just updated this thread, no issues to report after 1600 miles.

A quick update on this. Kilen springs and KYB shocks working really well, zero issues to date, circa 1600 miles covered. I still think the front looks a bit high, but overall it rides really well and I can hardly tell the difference between this and the old factory setup. I plan to get the alignment rechecked as I prefer a little more camber in the front, again purely for aesthetics. Rides and steers really well, no regrets.

Just buy Lexus springs - someone on here recently was quoted 85+ vat each from Lexus. Shocks appear to last longer so may not need changing. I went aftermarket on mine as the previous owner supplied them with the car - circa £50 each and work fine. Similar levels of comfort to standard.

I’m no expert but I’d start checking the battery at idle, make sure the alternator is charging. A duff battery can generate lots of issue.

If you’re fitting new discs, make sure the hubs are properly cleaned up first.

There is a cam sensor test pdf in the above link which appears temp related - could be related if yours is worse when warm. Note also it says if it was the crank position sensor, the engine would spin but not start

I was thinking this sounded vaguely related: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/435341-what-happens-if-the-camshaft-position-sensor-goes-bad.html As mentioned I’m unclear if these cars have both cam and crank position sensor Could it be something got dislodged when the service was undertaken.

The Dunlop’s (sportmaxx and bluresponse that I have fitted) have lower Euro decibel ratings than the Avon zz5 (69db v 70db) i find the Dunlop Bluresponse excellent and will buy again for sure.

This is must be very frustrating - it was running fine before the major service, IIRC? The only other sensors are the cam or crank position sensors - i can’t if these cars have both or just one Maybe worth try calling a different specialist for a second opinion - eg https://www.japex.co.uk/

Rockauto give you an option to use Fedex and pay duty upfront, meaning no delays. I got new shocks from them, delivered in 4 days

Buy with confidence from rock auto, assuming they deliver to your location https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/lexus,1998,ls400,4.0l+v8,1316123,body,lift+support,1404