McTyke

Thanks - that's the next step - eliminate the obvious.

Love my 2007 LS but it seems to have an annoying judder over even small bumps - as if the whole chassis is oscillating 2 or 3 times. Tried it on different air suspension setting and have even experimented with tyre pressures (its on Dunlop SP Sport with 19" rims) but no difference. At motorway speed and smooth surfaces its fine. Could it be one or more of the struts is on its way out? 10 years old and 93k miles so not too bad although I can live with it considering what replacement cost would be. Will see if Techdoc showing anything later.

Hi Derek - that looks like a very straight forward and cheap solution. Many thanks - I'll be doing the same.

Yes - the metal crush gasket and O ring came with it. Need to torque the 3 different size bolts down - all with different torque setting. Will maybe put a very thin smear of gasket RTV on as a precaution. Plan to do this weekend so will try and get some photos along the way. I will be running coolant flush through the system before hand and replacing coolant.

Pump arrived today from USA - total cost £70 inc carriage/charges.

Mine has 92k on clock. By all accounts pump is straightforward and I'm fairly handy with the spanners. Will put some interior shots on the file. As I had just washed it at the weekend and the sun was shining I wanted to get some shots of the caspian sky paintwork. It gets a few comments. It seems to change colour depending on the light and sky colour. V5 document shows it as blue. Have started to work my way around panel by panel removing all tar spots and applying renovator and polish. End result will be worth it. Amazing condition for its age.

Mine has 92k on clock. By all accounts pump is straightforward and I'm fairly handy with the spanners. Will put some interior shots on the file. As I had just washed it at the weekend and the sun was shining I wanted to get some shots of the caspian sky paintwork. It gets a few comments. It seems to change colour depending on the light and sky colour. V5 document shows it as blue. Have started to work my way around panel by panel removing all tar spots and applying renovator and polish. End result will be worth it. Amazing condition for its age.

Yes - aware of that thanks. Will only be vat as its less than £120. You can sometimes also get away with that too.

Always suspected a leak since a I got it ( the odd gurgle from behind dash on startup which indicates air in system) but it wasn't serious so did not dig too deep. However, took some parts off at the weekend to have a root around and voila! Classic seeping pump. Have already got the coolant and coolant flush and pump is on the way from USA - great price - so weekend job coming up. Looks easy enough.

Up-date - its better but still feel a wee bit of vibration. Can get pistons and seals kit for around £40 so will just go ahead and do other side. If that doesn't cure it I'll just scrap it LOL!

Hi sorry Pete - here is update. So ordered a cheap version of Techstream from E-bay seller in Bulgaria (£27 for disc and cable) My local garage didn't have software. Once programme loaded on laptop it can connect to car ECU's. This allows you to disable EBC and so bleed front front brakes in usual way. Removed old caliper and go to mount refurbished caliper to find mounting holes don't line up (about 5mm out) Everything else on the caliper is identical. However, there is a 2 digit code stamped in to caliper (mine was N18) and the one from USA was K7. Clearly this made a difference. Damn! Plan B. Removed pistons and seals from re-con unit and fitted them in to my old caliper. Old pistons are plastic (Phenolic) - replacement are metal. Apparently Phenolic pistons are used as they don't transfer as much heat from pad to brake fluid. However, internet search has reports of these plastic pistons absorbing water from old brake fluid which causes them to become oval shaped and so stick. So maybe this was cause of my problem as the piston bore was smooth despite split seal and the plastic can't corrode. Soo - all back together, bleed brakes (even with ignition off there was sound of a motor/pump from engine bay when brake pedal pressed) The Techstream software explained that once ignition switched back on, the EBC was enabled. Went for test drive, no warning lights and brakes feeling much better. Am planning to source seals and pistons for when passenger side starts playing up. So - bleeding fronts is easy with the Techstream. Rears are a different matter though. Any questions, I'll try and help. cheers

Up-date: Piston still sticking and causing vibration so ordered refurbished caliper from company in USA at very reasonable price. Now just hope as its only front to bleed my local garage can do it and clear any error codes with their diagnostic equipment.

All went pretty easy. Only thing noticed rubber seal round one of pistons was split. The piston went back in OK but I am guessing the piston is corroded and so not getting equal force on the disc as I am starting to feel vibration again. This may have been cause of vibration all along as old discs did not look too old. Easy enough to remove caliper and get it rebuilt but have read that bleeding this system is specialist job. Any thoughts?

Thanks folks. Will be fitting over Xmas so let you know.

Hi all First post here - new to Lexus - all good so far. Need to replace discs and pads - recommended by my local independent to cure vibration. I've done this quite a few times over years on various cars but anything I need to watch out for/tips? All help gratefully received Jeff