GSLV6

I usually get no more than 10K miles from the ZX7's but at £146 a corner I don't mind as this represents two years motoring to me and tyres ought to be changed really every 2 to 3 years, especially doing less miles as sat on the driveway they tend to craze quicker. During lockdown I hardly used the car and had to replace all 4 tyres a year later as the rubber had crazed in between the treads so it wouldn't have passed MOT. Used daily the rubber will stay more supple. I got rid of the OEM Dunlops very quickly as I found them harsh, noisy and they had awful wet weather grip. The ZX7's were a revelation. Better handling, a far more comfortable ride, significantly safer wet weather performance and braking performance. For the money they're the best I've so far tried. I also like the Geolanders a lot but they've now got a bit spendy.

Just PM me Herbie for detailed advice if needed. Basically, most amps are designed as voltage sources which swing the current to meet the demands of loudspeaker loads. Their stated output is usually in Watts RMS which is a sort of maximum mean power they are designed to operate at. Most solid state amps (Class A/B and Class D) are capable of happily driving loads with nominal impedances between 4 and 8 Ohms with no problems. However, to ensure the best match it is a good rule of thumb to cater for transient peaks in current demand at lower impedances so I would always advise choosing an amp with double the minimum stated power needs of the speaker load to allow for transient peak power demands in the lower frequencies. The stated speaker impedance uis usually described as the nominal speaker impedance, so an 8 Ohm nominal impedance means any amp is suitable that can drive an 8 Ohm load. A speaker rated at 8 Ohms can have a minimum impedance in the bass registers of more like 6 ohms, ditto a 4 ohm speaker can have a minimum impedance of 2.5 to 3.5 ohms in the lower frequencies so an amp capable of delivering power into a 4 ohm load is recommended. However, when you look at speaker ratings, they also include a sensitivity rating in dB/1w/1m (or watts for 2.83V/1m). If you take a speaker capable of outputting 90dB/1m/1w into 8 ohms and one which outputs the same into a 4 Ohm load, then using 4 ohm taps on some amps (mostly these days it's just valve amps with optional impedance load outputs) then using the 4 ohm tapping results in the 8 ohm speaker still working fine but with around 60% of the available power on tap, lower distortion and better damping factor so it will sound quieter for the same volume setting. Conversely a 4 ohm speaker driven from 8 ohm taps or amp designed for an 8 ohm load will work fine but if you drive it too hard the amp could run out of power and into clipping as the power needed to give the same output as 8 ohm speakers is double. In your case you have a little Chinese op-amp amplifier with tube buffers in the output stage (ie not a true valve amp). It will work but with those speakers which are nominal 8 ohm loads, you'll see half the power available from that amp, or perhaps a little less so in reality it can only supply enough current to drive them with a maximum output of 50 wpc and will likely clip if you overdrive it. If you don't need the bluetooth connectivity you'd be better advised using a better designed more conventional amp which can output 100wpc into an 8 ohm load. Sorry for the thread drift!

I really rate Avon RX7's. Not the best mileage but great all rounders and despite the summer tyre tag, are great in the wet (top rated) quiet, grippy and even perform well in the snow. Cheap too compared with most premium tyres.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234636662146?campid=5338627314&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=Cj0KCQiAxbefBhDfARIsAL4XLRpR5CsOotY0PvH_htj5Dgcd22UonLIUzttt3vSH_oQ4NUzk2M0aZjAaApJeEALw_wcB&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&customid=Cj0KCQiAxbefBhDfARIsAL4XLRpR5CsOotY0PvH_htj5Dgcd22UonLIUzttt3vSH_oQ4NUzk2M0aZjAaApJeEALw_wcB&gclid=Cj0KCQiAxbefBhDfARIsAL4XLRpR5CsOotY0PvH_htj5Dgcd22UonLIUzttt3vSH_oQ4NUzk2M0aZjAaApJeEALw_wcB

I've repaired quite a few. It's not difficult but it does need care to avoid creasing the cone. Measuring DCR of voicecoil won't provide enough for a close match. It's the Thiele-Small parameters that matter so finding one with similar "Vas", "Fs" (free air resonance in Hz), power handling and sensitivity are all really needed to get a close match. If there are any clues to what driver it is, I may be able to help as I'm a loudspeaker engineer. However, these do crop up on Ebay (some on there presently) so easier to replace like for like with one that's in good used condition from there (about £50 or £60 each)

You need to do a reset. That should solve it. Start by manually opening the rear boot by first remotely opening central locking, open rear door and gain access to rear door manual control. Upon tailgate and raise to the fully raised position. Remove battery cover in rear and disconnect the negative terminal. Leave disconnected for 10 seconds then reconnect. Close rear door manually then manually raise it to the top again, close it and press central locking on your remote. It should now all work. This worked for me after my battery went flat and needed replacing. Ensure button in glove compartment is enabled for remote operation. The only time it didn't work was when the tail lift motor failed which was replaced under warranty.

The unfortunate thing about insurance is many in the small print will only insure for "market value" which is less than the actual value of the car. It was explained to me after I wrote a mercedes off many years go which I had paid 7.5K for and they offered 4.5K back which I refused. I was told that "market value" was circa 20% under actual sale ticket price for me with some mealy mouth worded explanation of why. I took out a legal challenge and won getting the full amount back but they then refused to renew my premium (surprise surprise). You can elect not to have the insurance repair it and do it yourself. I reversed my RX into a friend's car accidentally catching the corner of his front bumper which did similar damage to mine, denting the rear quarter under the rear lamp cluster. I took it and his to a local bodywork specialist and he did a fantastic (as in invisible) repair job for £400 all in. That's what I'd be doing in your shoes. Ask for the car back and say you'll repair it yourself.

...or London's beloved mayor will have his goal posts moved somewhere out of harm's way along with him attached to them (you can live in hope!) 😄. Whoever replaces him though will most likely carry head on charging down the zero emissions route, as most politicians are firmly wedded to killing our economy by doing so.

it most definitely should not sound like a diesel. When the engine cuts in when power is on and the bonnet is lifted, my V6 is as smooth as butter and very quiet. You can obviously hear it start but tbh the other electric systems, air con and other things going on make as much if not more noise than the engine at idle. As above, if that isn't the case, walk away. Some can have noisy fuel pumps, located at the back end of the block. My GS suffered from a noisy pump which only quietened down when warm. The only other obvious cause would be a failure of the hydraulic tappet seals. Expensive fix if so.

Having looked at the cabins and compared the seats of the outgoing Takumi RX450h, I'd have that over the 500h. It may be personal rather than objective but the seats I think are better, I prefer the outgoing dash, in fact I much prefer the 2016 onwards cabins than the new models, and the smoothness of the V6 engines. If I were to chop my 2014RX3 in, I'd stick with the next newer model and pick a high spec low miles example and have loads of change left for a decent family holiday for many years ahead!

You're best advised paying a little extra and going for a post 2011 RX3 model where a facelift and some improvements were made. The plushest ride was on premier models with air suspension but at that age could be trouble stored up as this suspension is expensive to repair. Air compressor failure costs £2.5K to replace the compressor and each corner is over £1K to replace. Lux models have extras including options for LED headlamps, sunroof etc and were a very popular choice. F Sport gives better handling thanks to lateral dampers as well as conventional but feels fairly firm. It also comes as standard with full LEDs and is optioned with Mark Levinson sound system (which you can pay for on other models too), HUD (which is worth having) and several other extras. It's one of the better options longer term and FSports tend to hold their value well as one of the more desirable models.

Engine should be quiet all but for hydraulic tappets rippling away. Rust looks like mostly surface rust, which if that is the case can be scrubbed and Lanogaurd treated. Worth checking service history and verifying mileage though.

It is....except for the "buzzy" IL4 engine...

Price excludes us from ever owning another new one. I would like the 500H in F sport trim with a few extras. Priced it up using Lexus built menu and it came out at £82K! Was offered £20K for my 2014 low miles one in part ex but that still leaves £60K so there's no way in the current economic climate we can justify that spend. I will change it for an RX4 in 4 years time when I have owned it 10 years and be happy with that. I'd be happy with a new RX3 to be perfectly honest.

It'll vary between each car though. It all depends on how much moisture has accumulated over time within the cabin.

I had my cabin filter changed last service and AC is fine. Mine still condenses up on the drivers windscreen heavily when cold. Problem is due to large surface area getting very cold and moist air inside condenses on it. Still happens and takes ages to de-mist. Not so bad when clear and dry but when we come out of wet weather, as we have recently, you do get moisture inside the cabin, just a fact of life and it takes quite a long time to dry properly.

Yes, mine has roof rails but they didn't mention if it was water ingress, just that the motor unit had to be replaced. If you're covered by Lister's extended warranty, they should cover it unless being over 10 yrs old excludes it (I think some parts are covered for 10 years only).

If we ignore the point of use, the over riding argument against EV's lies in the recycling. Currently only about 2% of LiIon batteries are recycled world wide and then it takes huge amounts of energy to do it which offsets the claims of efficiency of use at point of use. Add to that losses in the transmission system and burden on the grid and you start to wonder of any of these globalist elite types know their backsides from their elbows. Here's one of many articles on the subject: https://cen.acs.org/materials/energy-storage/time-serious-recycling-lithium/97/i28 Most so-called safe collection and recycling companies simply collect the waste batteries and ship them for onward processing, a vast majority of which centres on the extraction of the precious metals, discarding or incinerating the rest. The belief that has been spread via propaganda in the mainstream media regarding "green energy" stubbornly refuses to publish any of this data. Considering the high efficiency of modern petrol engines, it seems to many right thinking people that it remains by far the most sensible choice until a truly viable alternative is properly established. Adding ever more ethanol to petrol also comes with risks too, not least to the health of the engine, specifically the fuel delivery system. The whole knee jerk policies of the UK (and other) governments in net zero emissions is a lie and is truthfully unobtainable and that will remain the case. It won't stop them decimating our economies and pushing us towards 3rd world standards of living trying though whilst it remains part of the hard left core policies. Ironically it will hit the worlds poorest the hardest. As to the future, government policy will force petrol suppliers to keep prices inflated artificially high. There will be no incentive to lower costs for a product that will drop off in demand as their overheads of production and transport will still need accounting for, plus the added threats of punitive road taxation increasing year on year to force more people over to a technology they can see makes no sense nor comes with the stated eco credentials one you drill deep enough and discover the truth. Had more widespread investment been made in nuclear power stations this might have swayed the argument but that's never going to happen now without massive foreign investment which we will pick the tab up for.

But it is easy enough to diagnose with a battery tester such as the Duratool tester (which I have) or to do a quick check on voltage across the terminals.

It felt different to the e-cvt in my RX which is why I asked the question. More refined and even smoother. Then again, it's not trying to lug 2.2t around. I liked the 6sp auto in my GS. That was one of the best auto boxes I've ever driven.

I've recently had a UX 250 Hybrid (premier plus spec or Takumi...not sure which!) and have to say I was mightily impressed! At long last they've produced a car that has very good driving dynamics and handling and that gearbox is sublime. Not sure if it's an auto or still CVT but it is much more refined than the CVT in my RX3. The interior is wonderful; the seats (leather in the one I drove) are some of the most comfortable I've ever sat in and the performance was much more satisfying than I expected. Forget the 0-60 specs, the in gear roll on seems very lively, not unlike what you might expect from a 2 litre turbo-diesel. Bags of overtaking grunt on tap. The only thing I was disappointed with was noise intrusion into the cabin at motorway speeds. It really was quite noisy. Whether this was down to the tyres it was shod with I don't know but it was very un-Lexus like and much noisier than my RX. The other thing I disliked a lot, whilst a lot more up to date than previous generations was the touch screen display which you needed to access for many of the controls. At least the heater controls were available manually from the row of buttons beneath the large display. The radio was very good indeed. The model I had was equipped with active lane assist and on a few empty A road stretches I tried it out and it worked surprisingly well with gentle counter steering to set you on the right side of the white lines but it was somewhat hit and miss, not a problem as you should be looking where you're going anyway. I just wish that they'd offer ore boot space. There was barely enough room for two average sized suitcases so it won't be on my shopping list because of that one issue. I think if I chop my RX in, it'll be for the later generation NX. The new plug in hybrid NX is the one I'd like but may not be attainable due to the current RRP meaning in 4 years time (when I plan to change) they might still hold onto a little too much residual value to make it a viable trade in..

I have had this twice with my RX. As long as you can access the auxiliary battery (presumably it's in the boot as with other hybrid models?) the test procedure is as follows. Using a multi meter set to voltage, your battery should read at around 14.6V with the engine running and the hybrid battery charging it via the charging circuit. With the engine off and the ignition off, a healthy battery should maintain around 12.4 to 12.6V. If it dips lower then there may be a chance a cell has been compromised. One major difference between engine cranking high torque batteries and leisure batteries (such as the auxiliary battery) is that the latter should never be allowed to drop below 50% charge as this can damage the battery cells and they won't be able to recover. You may get away with it a few times. These days, I always have battery tender wires attached to the terminals permanently so if the car is going to sit longer than say 2 weeks without use, I simply hook it up to a CTek battery charger on trickle charge. Most battery chargers come with the wiring and connectors needed for exactly this purpose. The battery can remain insitu as it won't damage the electronics doing this (I checked with Lexus).

Just had mine back from Lexus with this fault. Low mileage 2014 F Sport. Transpired as motor unit failure. Replaced free under warranty and all's good again. It's not an uncommon problem but the Lexus Extend warranty has it covered for those servicing with Lexus dealers.

Supply and demand rules but they'll start driving people away from Lexus and onto other marques if they continue chipping away like this given that the playing field for hybrids and EVs for example has become more level in terms of reliability. People need value and there's no sense in charging what they do for a premium hybrid or EV without an owner's handbook, so my guess is they'll lose out on what is after all something that costs them very little in the scheme of things, particularly at their premium prices.

The argument about capital costs coming down usually is the case as more are produced and cost of parts can benefit from economies of scale, but there are several over-riding considerations which make a mockery of the whole nonsense. The first is that we currently are experiencing for the first time since the early 1970's threats of power outages at peak times to meet current demand, and with no major reinforcement to electricity production, that problem is only going to get worse. It takes over 20 years to plan, build and commission a nuclear power station, overcoming the funding, planning and technological difficulties. The UK government really hasn't thought it through instead relying on bully boy and frankly tyrannical practices by simply imposing their zero carbon targets which will do little to affect global CO2 levels but punitively punish the UK economy on a scale never before seen. Getting away from the politics of it all, there's then the fact that world copper demand means rising prices and much of what we use being unsustainable recycling and purification for the required copper specifications as the only places mining it are China and Australia AFAIK. So is doubling the amount or more of copper for each vehicle sustainable? That and the Lithium elephant in the room storing up a massive toxic problem for the future, which by now we were promised would have been overcome by solid state battery development which is still very much in infancy. Then there's the complete and utter mess of the charging network where any journey over 100 miles requires very careful planning. A relative had to recently make a 500 mile round trip in his new EV car. He thought he had it licked with planned stops for charging en-route and adequate range between stops but at the first stop, half of the charging points were out of service and even had he braved the queue for the remaining ones, he didn't have the required app as each station seemed to use different providers, meaning signing up to a load of the things. Hs actual V's estimated range fell massively short in the end necessitating something like 10 hours of delays for additional stops including waiting for a slot and then waiting for the charging. On his return he is now questioning the wisdom of spending a not inconsiderable sum on an EV when a plug in hybrid would have been the wiser choice. I can see the sensibility for urban areas where clean air is at a premium but you will also shortly pay a premium for using an EV in both charging cost and planned changes to the road taxation system Highways and highways repairs still need funding and the two main sources are vehicle licence tax and S106 payments from major developments. Add to that the claimed electrical efficiencies, well currently these are NOT calculated at source (ie from power station to end user to miles travelled) but only at the point of use. Given that petrol engined vehicles (exclude diesel here for a moment which means excluding shipping and HGV and public transport) are responsible for around 0.3% of UK's CO2 emissions with total vehicles responsible for circa 1% and there is no case for a cost benefit either environmentally and certainly not economically. The whole thing at a legislative political level is a farce and the way it's being delivered farcical. I for one, will be hanging on to my petrol hybrid for many years into the future but we may concede chopping our smaller 2nd car in for an EV for local trips only which is where I see them making most sense.